Seal Removal Help

[Guest JKusba]

Hello Everyone,

I just got a 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 Door, still has original engine. This is the first one I have had that was this old that I have worked on, so I figured I might as well ask a few questions if I may. Is there much difference changing the seals on this than there is on a GM small block? Also what would you recommend for engine oil? Does this have timing chain or timing gears? Thanks~

[Bhigdog]

You can get lots of help from the folks here. But If you plan on keeping and maintaining your car you absolutly must obtain a shop manual for it. Most of the answers to your questions are there.................Bob

Edited December 12, 2012 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[ply33]

You can get lots of help from the folks here. But If you plan on keeping and maintaining your car you absolutly must obtain a shop manual for it. Most of the answers to your questions are there.................Bob

What he said!

Hello Everyone,

I just got a 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 Door, still has original engine. This is the first one I have had that was this old that I have worked on, so I figured I might as well ask a few questions if I may. Is there much difference changing the seals on this than there is on a GM small block? Also what would you recommend for engine oil? Does this have timing chain or timing gears? Thanks~

Don't know how GM did it so I can't say if Plymouth is different from that or not. On the rear seal the early engines used a rope seal the later ones a neoprene rubber seal. Not sure when they switched over. Also, I think, there is a retrofit for some of the rope seals to switch them to neoprene. Front timing chain seal (all those L-6 engines from '33 up use a timing chain) was leather on the old cars. Modern neoprene seals are available for that.

Also, all those Plymouth L-6 motors from '33 up had hardened exhaust valve seat inserts from the factory. Don't waste your money on lead additives as the engine was already designed for unleaded.

[D Yaros]

Not sure which seal(s) you are referring to here? The rear main, back in the day was a rope seal. Yes, neoprene replacements are now available. However, a lot of folk experience leaks with them if not installed properly; and proper installation appears to be an art!

[Guest JKusba]

Ok thank you everyone, does the bell housing come off on the 3 speed transmission? Or do I have to pull the engine out to take the flywheel off? Just want some tips before I change the flywheel....

[D Yaros]

I have no idea about the bell housing. But, if it is like the experience I had with my '54 Plymouth being a royal pain to work on, I would hazard a guess it will require the engine be pulled to get at the flywheel?

[ply33]

I have no idea about the bell housing. But, if it is like the experience I had with my '54 Plymouth being a royal pain to work on, I would hazard a guess it will require the engine be pulled to get at the flywheel?

Amazing how things can be the same, yet so different between different year cars.

Ok thank you everyone, does the bell housing come off on the 3 speed transmission? Or do I have to pull the engine out to take the flywheel off? Just want some tips before I change the flywheel....

Sounds like it is very difficult on a '54 Plymouth. But it is not too bad on a '33 or, I think, on other Plymouths through the '30s and '40s. There were certainly some big styling changes between '48 and '49 and '50 and that might also translate to changes in mechanical access. So maybe you can to it with out pulling the engine. Maybe you can't. Getting the service manual for the car would help you decide.

For my much older Plymouth you can pull the transmission and the "dust pan" on the bottom of the bell housing to get access to the clutch. Once the clutch is off, if you have a way to block the engine from turning, you can remove the flywheel bolts. I can't remember now if the bolt pattern is non-square and the flywheel only goes on one way or if I marked things. I do remember that I was careful to re-assemble the crank/flywheel/clutch exactly as it came off so that it would be back to the previous balance. To get access to the lower half of the seal you'll probably want to drop the rear main bearing cap and to do that you need to remove the oil pan. On my older car, there is just enough room that you can get to the bolts holding the upper seal using an open end and plenty of appropriate language. All this would be a lot easier with appropriate lifts but you can probably do it with ramps and/or suitable jack stands. Been a long time since I did that operation, so I am sure I am forgetting a lot. But I did get the leak down to an acceptable level (<1qt per oil change interval).

Unfortunately, it needs to be done again and I am not as strong, limber and motivated as I was years ago...

[D Yaros]

To get access to the lower half of the seal you'll probably want to drop the rear main bearing cap and to do that you need to remove the oil pan. On my older car, there is just enough room that you can get to the bolts holding the upper seal using an open end and plenty of appropriate language. Been a long time since I did that operation, so I am sure I am forgetting a lot.

Hey, you certainly remembered the most important part, "the use of appropriate language"!

I recall having to use a lot of that every time I had to work on my '54 Plymouth!