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Skylark Drum to Disc


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I thinking about changing over to front disc brakes. Are there any issues with the tie-rod ends fitting disc spindles? At this time the whole front-end is apart for suspension upgrade. I am considering getting a complete front-end rebuild kit from PST that comes with new ball joints, tie-rod ends, etc. I haven't ordered any parts yet. If i go with discs will I have to change the stock tie rod ends? If anyone has done this conversion on a 70-72 Skylark , your tips would help. grin.gif" border="0

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I haven't done this conversion, but I have been researching it for several months.<P>Looked at all the kits that are advertised for A-bodies, and searched most of the muscle car sites for disc conversion postings.<P>Have not read anything about needing to change tie rods. Not seen tie rods pictured with any "needs nothing else" kit. <P>This conversion looks very attractive, just a matter of deciding if you want to go the junkyard route to save money, or buy a packaged kit with everyhting included for about $900.

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Perhaps i should clarify that the tie-rods, etc are part of a suspension kit, not a brake package.<BR>I was thinking of going to the bone-yard for a 72 disc setup. I'm just want to be sure that the drum/disc brakes of that era used the same linkage parts. I think perhaps I'm just paranoid about some of these modifications the have "hidden" problems that are discovered the hard way.<BR> <BR>Another concern is if the spindle height between the two is the same. I understand that the disc setup will need different wheels (15"x ?)<BR>but i want to be sure that the suspension geometry doesn't change radically. I have seen the upgrade package for brakes they are a bit pricey for my overall budget for now. Maybe I should start playing the lottery. rolleyes.gif" border="0

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The spindle is different and should be part of a conversion package. There should be no suspension parts issues (tie rods, ball joints, etc.) that would hinder your conversion. There are early wheels (14") that do not have clearence for brake calipers, that may be a problem, but it depends on your wheels, jnot sure when they all were made for disc clearence.

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I did this conversion last year. the disc brake conv goes as follows. this is what you need from the donor vehicle. Proportioning valve on the frame below the master cylinder.<BR>the spindels, spindels are a direct bolt on no changes to control arms keep what you have. remember that the brake hose holddowns are diffrent from disc brakes to drum breaks grab these as well. and if it has the brake booster take that too they are a little healthy cost wise to replace also think about grabing the vacummn line fron the manifold to the booster. Just some ideas for you to think about bet all you can from the donor you might forget something "i did"<P>Phil Green "72 skylark"

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i would get the stuff from the bone yard. i did it several years ago. the stuff cost $250 and they removed it. i just took my wagon down there are loaded it up. all you then have to do is cut the rotors, buy the brake pads and install the stuff. <P>then take the $650 you save a buy some more goddies for the car.<P>and the previous guy (phil i think)is right about what to take from th donor car. make sure that you get the proportioning valve.<P>john<p>[ 08-17-2001: Message edited by: riv1973 ]

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Although they will fit, the 71-2 tie rods have a different taper than the 64-70. Checking the parts book, the steering arms (they attach to the spindles) are different as well. So, if you have a 64-70, you should use your original steering arms if you get the system off a 71-2. <BR>The disc brake vacuum boosters are different as well and give a little less pedal effort. 69-70 are one type and 71-2 are another. Also, the 71-2 boosters have less pedal effort than 69-70 ones. Can't say as to why, they just do. I have done many of these conversions and it has just worked out that way.<BR>As previously stated, just get the WHOLE setup of the donor car and you should have all you need. If you question needing something, just take it anyway. <BR>Good Luck,<BR>Mark

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i am in need of front tie rod ends with ball joints , on my 1970 lark i can't just change the ball joints , i need tie rod ends as well , does anybody know where i can get them confused.gif" border="0smile.gif" border="0

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I just want to make sure I have this right. If I got the complete front disc brake system from a 71 Monte Carlo for my 66 GS, I would have to replace the Monte steering arms attached to the spindle with the ones from my 66. Then just put it all back together using the Monte master cylinder and proportioning valve. Is that right? <P>Thanks - Steve

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To quote my 1968 Pontiac Chassis Shop Manual which covers Pontiac (Parisienne), Acadian and Beaumont:<P>"Disc brake equipped vehicles (except Pontiac) require special 14" diameter wheels with a revised design for clearance. Pontiac disc brake equipped vehicles have 15" diameter wheels."

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Having been involved in sevral of the change overs I will tell you we have never changed the steering arms, in fact we just put a set from a `71 Montie on a `65 Skylark...just changed the spindles (complete) put on the new Master cyl., and booster, hooked up the prop valve,ran the lines, blead the brakes and out the door!

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While the arms from 71-2 may fit, the outer tie rod ends are different than 64-70. The outers for 64-70 are p/n 5678805 and 71-2 are p/n 7810072. Years ago when I worked at an auto parts wholesaler I researched this and found that the taper of the tie rods ends are different beginning in 71. When I have done swaps from a 71-2 on a 67-70 I have used the original steering arms from the car. <BR>64-66 steering arms are p/n 383806/7 67-70 are p/n 3894488/7 and 71-72 are p/n 408604/5.<BR>I don't know if the 66 arms will fit the steering knuckle. <BR>If others out there have used the 71-2 setup without a problem, then why not.<BR>I didn't want to take a chance of the tie rod ends not fitting properly into the steering arms.<BR>The choice is yours. <BR>Regards,<BR>Mark

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