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1917 rear universal stude / slip yolk


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Guest stude8

Don't know if this catalog page shows what you are looking for but it can be blown up for better quality.

Stude8

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Guest oldcar31

Hi studenut

I dont know if I can help you with the yolk but I do have a large amount of mechanical parts although some are a bit scarcer than others. What type of 17 are you restoring 4 or 6? I have the remains of an SD 6 roadster and am looking for a hood (bonnet) and valances or patterns. I saw the remains of a six on the web a few years ago in Canada is this the one you are restoring?

Cheers

Chris

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The most I can help with are the illustrations and part numbers from the Series 16-17-18 illustrated parts manual. The three column groupings got cut off a bit. They are Series 16, Series 17 and Series18. Hope it helps.

Scott

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The most I can help with are the illustrations and part numbers from the Series 16-17-18 illustrated parts manual. The three column groupings got cut off a bit. They are Series 16, Series 17 and Series18. Hope it helps.

Scott

Thanks for the previous illustrations and replies

The shaft Im looking for is 18927

The trunions are 12179 x2

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The trunion listed in the parts book have a round perimeter. I am looking for ones with a sq are perimeter. Then may be from a later model or aftermarket

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|I have a 1915 SD that I installed rear universal joint body, shaft and square trunions from a 1917 6 parts car that I have.

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The area that rides in the round center shaft is worn but the outside of the trunions and the universal joint body were not worn. The sq trunions provide more surface area on the universal joint body, reducing the wear. My car runs along nicely at 35 to 40 mph with no driveline vibration. I if I can not fund better ones I will have some made on a cnc, let me know is there is any interest.

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The parts car I have I think is a 1917. It has ½ rear upper springs, wood dash, tank in rear, brake shafts that attach to the transaxle and rear hub caps that cover the whole axle flange.

The car has frame, transaxle, body from the cowl back, four rough fenders, gas tank, top bow heafy hardwre and body pivot brackets, right wind shield post, aprons, jump seat bottoms, etc. I can draw the aprons for you to have new ones made if they are design as the roadster. I have a drawing for 1915 sd4 touring aprons if any one is interested.

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I also have a frame, trans axle, steering box frame brackets etc for a 1913 6. Also a bonnet but I believe it is different than the 17

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If anyone is thinking to trying to drive a transaxle car I strongly advise you adjust the transaxle before doing so. The unit comes out of the housing in one piece and is easily adjusted on your bench. The manual explains everything clearly.

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My care is unrestored and last run and put in storage about 1950, repainted in the 30s original wood and leather. I made it mobile and tried to drive it but could not shift from 1st to 2nd . After adjusting the Transaxle I ca now easily do the ½ shift as well as downshift into 2nd with now noise. I have driven about 800 miles since the adjustments and it is a pleasure to drive.

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I believe all the transaxle horror stories are from do lack of service, the 4 hours is well spent time.

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Chis , you ca contact me direct about the aprons patm@managen.com

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