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Studenut1915

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Everything posted by Studenut1915

  1. Hi all I'm looking for pistons for an 1928 president FA 312 cubic inch. I need .030 .040 or semi's. I would consider good used. Please let me know what you have.
  2. Hi Nicolas My my car is a 131 inch wheelbase. The FA was early 28 production and the only 8 to have 313 cid engine. my car will have cowl hood and radiator up front. seats gas tank toolbox and spare tires at the rear. I'm just going through all the parts and tearing down my two engi nes.
  3. Hi all. Looks like Nicolas has a fun project going on. I have a 1928 FA frame and a bunch of parts that I am going to use for a racer build. Is the frame number is a similar place? My frame did not come with a serial number tag tag. Pat
  4. I'm glad you enjoyed it Also thanks Peter Gariepy for adjusting the link for instant play Pat
  5. The first road maps came out in Alberta 1914. In 2014 we followed the original map as close as possible. It was a fun adventure.
  6. Hi Chris I have done this. Simple with minimal machining. Click on my picture, scroll down and you will find my history. I also posted about adjusting you transmission pinion. Have fun. Pat
  7. Bloo The oil site gauge simply has a hole in the top that oil flows into and a hole in the bottom for outflow. On my car you can see the flow at an idle and the whole gauge fills with oil going down the road. Pat
  8. Bloo If you go to my response and click on n my car,my history will come. The info is under driveline parts.
  9. Bloo The oil flow gauge is feed off the top of the oil pump, through the gauge and returns to the top front of the engine to feed the distributor and timing gears. You can see the lines in Rust's foto of his engine. If the gauge is bypassed you must have line from the pump to the front of the engine. If not you will starve all the timing gears. My car had the lines removeve an fitting plugged whe i bought my car.i did figure it out before I fired it up. Pat
  10. Hi Rusty My car is an unrestored SD4 built in Walkerville Ontario. understand what 100 years of crud is like. When you removed the nut it should have taken the all the spring tension off. On my SD 4 the pin was difficult to remove the first time but did come out. There is just enough room to get the pin out. The threaded shaft is also threaded into the back of the crankshaft. If you think there is still some spring tension on it you could try to compress the collar enough to turn the threaded shaft enough to remove the tension. It may have been pressurized a bit by pushing in the collar and turning the threaded shaft with the pin installed. The replacement leather for you clutch should be 3/16 of an inch. I tried 1/4 inch and it pushed the driveshaft back far enough into the transmission cup that the clutch would not fully release. You may be able to soften your leather with neets foot oil. My care sat for 60 years, I oiled it well and drove a lot for it for 8 years. I changed it because I was afraid it may leave me stranded, it was still working fine. Someone had cut long cotter keys at the eye and inserted them between the facing and the cone to make of for wear. the leather was oft and stong when i removed it. I also changed my front you joint to a modern type in the existing hardware. See previous posting I also found some square rear trunion in a 1917 parts car that have the removed all of the play out out my rear driveshaft to transmission connection. see previous posting have fun Pat
  11. Thank you. Nice looking truck. I thought the rad might be for a truck. It was rescured from the Reynolds museum yard in Wetaskewin Alberta Canada before the crusher arrived. Pat
  12. Great road going car The spark advance should be all the full down to start about 3/4 way up on warm up and all the way up on normal running. You may want to back off in high gear at very low speed to prevent detonation knock. You need to leave space in the radiator for expansion as the coolant heats up. At least have it above the tubes about half way between the tubes and fliller neck. If you can shift into first and reverse sitting still at an idle you clutch would not be causing shifting issues. 1rst to 2nd shifts usually work well getting it rolling about 10mph or less double clutching and letting the revolutions drop top most an idle and use a quick throw into 2nd. Similar unto 3rd. Make sure the transmission fluid is full. It will take some getting used to with no sychromesh and straight cut gears. Its all about matching the revs with the roads speed. Once in third you rarely need to downshift until to stop. The big six will lug down to 5 mph or less. Just use light throttle pressure when in 3rd at very low speeds. Have fun.
  13. My Grandfather on the right drove this ammunition's truck the front line in southern France in the WW1. I would like to identify this truck
  14. I have used a 69 Ford f100 master in my 40 Commander. I bolted it into the existing master location. I believe had drill 2 new holes. The new unit had a two bolt flang and the original was three bolt. The brake linkage to master rod was about 1/2 inch short. A spacer rod will need to be installed in the piston tube to to make up for this. New master had the same size piston front and back do no proportiong valve was required. Just a little plumbing. This reduced the pedal pressure and gave price of mind. 64 truck brakes are self centering full actuating. Backing plates will bolt right on and work with existing drums. You will need to have a have a new Emergency cable made. Huge improvement in braking with less pedal pressure.
  15. I was unable to find u-joint parts for my 1915. I ended up updating to new style u-joint. I used a u-joint with clips on the inside of the caps. I machined a bit out of the inside faces of the drive shaft and clutch yokes to centre the u-joint and to create a tight fit to the clips. See picture attached. The bearing caps had to be ground out to accept the pinch bolts. The dust cover encloses everything and you can not tell a modification was made. for the rear of the driveshaft, I found some square trunnion on 1917 6 cyl frame. Mine were round and badly worn. I machined hole add added a bushing to bring it back it the original shaft size. I also made a new cross shaft I used the transmission companion flange the was with the square trunnions as it was not worn. The extra surface area that the square trunnions ride on took the all the play out. You could probably have some square trunnions made if yours are round and worn as mine were. Pat I believe the u-joint I used is a spicer 5-806X. They are used on Dana 60 differentials.
  16. I have a 1915 SD4 built Canada. It sat for 6o years before I bout it in 2010. I tried to drain the oil but would not come out. I took off the pan and found it was filled with a heavy jelly type mush. Not sure what the situation is with your car. There is a tray that sits above the oil level in the pan that has troughs in it. The throughs are fed from the oil pump and what runs back down into them by gravity. The rod bolts are extended to splash the oil that makes it into the trough into the crankcase. There is no force feed to the bearings. That is the only form of engine lubrication. The pump also feeds the site gauge and then the oil goes to the timing gears. The pump piston simply rides on a cam lobe You should be careful installing the pump as the piston could fall into the pan. There is also a screen about 4 inches long that extends into the pan where the pump pick up the oil. There is a good chance that it could be plugged. After cleaning everything, lubing everything inside as best I could, and reinstalling my oil pan and installing the pump, I primed the pump through the removable cap in the top of the pump. I could not get oil to the site gauge by turning it over but I had oil in the site gauge after about 5 seconds after it started. If you haven't removed your pan or do not know when it was done I would highly recommend doing so. My site gauge fills up immediately on startup and stays full all of the time. The solder on my site gauge to line connection had failed and I had to re-solder them. Good luck. These cars start and run great and are a blast to drive Pat
  17. Thanks for the reply and additional info. Would someone know the thread size and thread count of the puller required for the rear wheels?
  18. Hi all I found a president the owner claims is a 28 serial number is 7000177. Not great shots it was stuffing in the back of a shed with no lights. I would like to know what year it is and what model might it be? are the brackets on the mat for a rear mount spare or for a trunk. Fender etc were in another shed that I didn't get access to so not sure if it had sidemounts. it is for sale but I'm not sure what it would be worth, the engine would not turn over by hand.
  19. Looks like a fun car to use as is. It appears to be a 17 not a 15. The motor has the manifold on the same side unlike the 17. There is a shakle access door near the year fender that a 17 would have. The 17 also had the drop down valance below the radiator that wraps to the front of the springs. I can't see gas tank but it it would be at the rear on a 17 and in the cowl with the filler on the dash on a 15 . The serial number on a 15 is under the storage flap of the drivers for and I beleive it is inside near the kick board on the 17.
  20. I have a 15 sd4 older paint original interior and wood. I drive it as is and get lots of attention.This is what my water pump looked like. It looks like maybe there was ice in there when the engine was started as the vanes should be straight. after I repaired mine it doesn't get over 140 degrees The attached rough drawing should be enough for you to build a new impeller and shaft. You could probably make a sleeve cut some vanes and weld them to the sleeve. if your housing is not to back you could get possibly sealing it up with JB weld. Good luck and enjoy it.
  21. I recently installed a motor complete with clutch and transmission in my 40 commander. The notes and clutch were rebuilt about 22 years ago and satnin a car outside. Motor ran great but the clutch was frozen. I cranked the starter in 1st gear to get it rolling and took it out on a deserted paved road. After acelleraring hard to 20 mph and taking my foot off the gas 4 times the clutch broke loose. The clutch now works freely with no ill effects. It has now been in service 2000 miles. I was faced with removals of the engine and transmission if this did not work as there is no Inspectìon cover on the bellhousing. Good luck
  22. I run Autolite 3095 plugs in my 1915 SD4 and they work well. it had Champion 31 three piece plugs in it when got the car.
  23. The valves can be accessed below the spark plugs and priming cups. Just remove the caps below. I welded nut to a short bolt with a head that fit the cap and used a regular socket on the bolts to remove an reinstall the caps. You may be able to free up the valves if they are not stuck to bad. The stuck valves will be open so you should be able to spray some Sprayfoam deep creep or some type of penetrating oil onto the valve stem and it should run into the guide. You can get new crush gaskets from restoration supply. The lifter galley is located under the covers behind the intake/exhaust manifold. You will need a valve spring tool for side valve engines to remove the valve keepers. My 1915 SD4 sat for 60 years, the oil would not run out of the drain plug. I had to remove the pan and scrape out the oil that had turned to stiff jelly. It is not a big job to hand lap the valves. There is too holes in the top of my valves to accept a tool. The I made a tool to fit the holes so I could lap the valves as a suction type tool would not work. Some people use 3 or 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in there fuel to help lube the valves. Have fun
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