Guest born2lose Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I have a 1936 series 40 coupe that I am changing the tranny out of and getting rid of the torque tube. I was wondering if anyone know what rear end will fit in the same length as original.. I am going g to run stock wheels and I know I might have to redrill bolt pattern on axle and that no problem. Just need to know and year and model rearend I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Not sure why you would want to do that but anyway, the 5" bolt pattern on the pre war Buicks is the same as most fullsize GM cars (not sure about Chevrolet though) right through to the 1960s - and no doubt some others - and maybe even later.Some guff here for consideration - Car Bibles : The Wheel and Tyre Bible Page 4 of 4 - and other pages on the same site. There will be other factors to take into account, ratios, suspension mounts etc.More on PCDs here - http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/boltpat.html - with a list of what sizes many cars used. Edited June 19, 2012 by nzcarnerd (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50jetback Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 How do you plan on holding the rear end in?The torque tube prevents the rear end rocking backwards on the spring shackles and enables the up and down springing action - no torques tube and the rear end will rock back far enough for the universal joint to slip out on the open tail shaft.What gearbox are you thinking of using? I too would like to know why you are considering such a drastic alteration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) ..I too would like to know why you are considering such a drastic alteration.May be this http://forums.aaca.org/f115/buick-engine-conversion-question-help-330110.html#post1044878http://forums.aaca.org/f119/want-complete-buick-248-263-so-329620.htmlThe magazines in http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/The-Torque-Tube.htm may helpSome guys just make it hard for themselves ! Edited June 19, 2012 by 1939_buick (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Having looked at the links from 1939_Buick, I think, as he said, some people like to make it hard. As far as I know the 233 and the 263 are essentially the same engine and should not take too much work to swap. I wonder if it is worth the effort. Even though the 263 makes more horsepower than the 233 it is only at much higher revolutions. I don't think the difference would be very noticeable in normal driving. The extra power of the 263 was needed to shift the extra weight. A 1952 Buick Super coupe (56R) is about 3800lb whereas a 1936 Buick Series 40 coupe (46) is less than 3200lb according to figures in The Standard Catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest born2lose Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Well I have swapped in open drive lines in fleetlines before with s10 rearends before so I know what I'm getting into. And the reason I'm doing is because I want a 5 speed. And as far as the engine I just want a more modern 248 over the Babbitt 233.. I know ill have to modify stuff for the drivetrain and I'm not worried about that I do it for a living. So all I'm asking is if anyone knows what rearend is about the same length as the 36 rearend? 90s s10? Camaro? G body? Im used to the s10 ones because of the veriety of ratios in them. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest born2lose Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 How do you plan on holding the rear end in?The torque tube prevents the rear end rocking backwards on the spring shackles and enables the up and down springing action - no torques tube and the rear end will rock back far enough for the universal joint to slip out on the open tail shaft.What gearbox are you thinking of using? I too would like to know why you are considering such a drastic alteration.This is my first Buick I have always changed the drivetrains on 40s Chevy fleetlines. I always swapped the torque tube with a early 90s s10 blazer rearend and put a t5 mated to the 216 . I would get rid of the leafs and convert to a custom 4 link I would make. With a mustang II in the front. Rides ways better. But being this is my first 30s Buick I wanted to see if anyone has changed out the rearend so I know what they used Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50jetback Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 But being this is my first 30s Buick I wanted to see if anyone has changed out the rearend so I know what they usedAt a wild guess I would say no other BUICK PRE WAR FORUM participants have ever done this to a 1936 Buick so I don't think anyone here will know the answer to your question.A 248 motor won't overcome the babbitt bearing issue of the 233 - only the very last ( late 1949, 1950/51/52/53 ) motors were fitted with replaceable shells, pre late 1949 were still babbitts.The later model straight 8 motors will fit into the available space in a 1936, the major issue is the engine and gearbox mounting points but I have seen photos of later motors in the engine bays of 1934/35/36 Series 40 Buicks.Good luck on your project, how about some photos of the coupe you are working with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest born2lose Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Well with a Rack and pinion and some u joints ill get the steering done.. do you have any pics with the later engines in? I cannot find any Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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