36 Dodge sedan radiator removal

[Guest coolie24]

Anybody ever removed the radiator from one of these cars? Just want to make sure i am doing this the correct and easiest way. Also does anyone happen to have the top hose elbow on the top tank of the radiator. The one in my car is just about rusted away and i need to get it replaced.

thanks

Mike

Edited May 7, 2012 by coolie24 (see edit history)

[1936 D2]

I take it you are trying to do this with the grille shell in place? Which "elbow" are you speaking of? The one on the upper radiator tank or on top of the block?

Where about's in this big world are you located if I may ask? (Be as vague as you like).

[Guest coolie24]

i am talking about the one on the radiator tank. the grille shell is in place. i need to replace the water pump so it looks like it will be close with that removed. thanks for the quick reply.

[1936 D2]

Removing the grille shell is the "ideal way" but that involves removing the fenders too as I recall. Lots of work.

I THINK there is enough room if you remove all hood panels, both upper grille stabilizer bars (mark adjustment position and R / L first!), generator and support bracket, fan, water pump and pulley, upper elbow (on head), and front heater hose if applicable. Then you should be able to raise it almost straight out. You will need a helper with the hood panels and the radiator lift. A good radiator shop should be able to repair the upper tank/elbow fitting or maybe even possibly fashion a new one. This should get you through.

The reason I asked about location is maybe we have another '36 owner near by that can be "the helper". Then you would both benefit.

[1936 D2]

While you have the front of the engine off, you may want to also consider replacing the water distribution tube in the block. It is an important piece that very often gets practically rusted away. If it is gone, the coolant only seems to work well on the front cylinders. The rears get overheated and other damage occurs. This tube directs water flow all the way to the back of the block so an even cooling can take place. See photo of this tube. Be sure to use antifreeze or an anti-rust agent in your coolant when you refill!

[Guest coolie24]

thanks for the tip on the cooling tube. i would never have even thought about it.where is the tube? behind the water pump?

thanks

[1936 D2]

Yep. In that odd oval shaped hole. (You can see it in the gasket above.) Goes straight back into the block.

[Guest coolie24]

do you have any idea who might have this part? I have done a little checking and have not come up with anything yet.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Try this site.

Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts for Chrysler's cars from 30s to 70s

Part No L-170

I think this is what you want.

Best Regards

Ian

[Dodgy6]

I came across this one on e-bay tonight. Looks like it might be a slightly later ('37-54') which would make it part # L-171. $129.95 as opposed to the $39.50 ('36) on the link in the previous post. :eek:

30s 40s 50s Flathead 6 Brass Water Dist TUBE NOS MoPar | eBay

Edited May 8, 2012 by Dodgy6 (see edit history)

[1936 D2]

I came across this one on e-bay tonight. Looks like it might be a slightly later ('37-54') which would make it part # L-171. $129.95 as opposed to the $39.50 ('36) on the link in the previous post. :eek:

30s 40s 50s Flathead 6 Brass Water Dist TUBE NOS MoPar | eBay

Use caution here too on what the parts description is! The one from the above eBay post is a 25 incher for the Canadian model long block engine. (You will also find that "fmmpar"s stuff is ATROCIOUSLY PRICED! :mad: What a parts hog!)

Here is an eBay auction for the shorter 23" US made block: 1935-59 Ply Dodge Water Distribution Tube Set | eBay Good luck on your search. They are out there yet!

[Guest 1930]

What holds this tube in place, can you give a little more finer detail about this tube, anything added would be helpfull, thanks

[1936 D2]

Just shove it in there. Friction fit. Wide part on the bottom. Shorter height end in first. Lines up with the similar ovalish shaped hole in the water pump gasket.

Just have to be sure to pull out all remnants of the old one if in there. Coat hangar wire bent into a little hook shape works well. A system flush is always wize too! That's why this one vendor sells the tube with the freeze plugs and water pump gasket as a kit. By-the-way, the one used in the 23" earlier engines, like the '36, are made of steel and not brass like the later version in the eBay ad link posted in #10 above.

You can see it in the end-on drawing of the engines of the period in any pertinent Master Maintenance Manual just alongside the top area of the piston shown, between there and the valve chambers. I think this is the simplest part to replace in an engine re-build!

Edited May 8, 2012 by 1936 D2
added data (see edit history)

[1936 D2]

Hey "coolie24"! How about some photos of your car? We love photos! Doesn't matter what condition it's in. We like 'em all!

[Guest 1930]

Just shove it in there. Friction fit. Wide part on the bottom. Shorter height end in first. Lines up with the similar ovalish shaped hole in the water pump gasket.

Just have to be sure to pull out all remnants of the old one if in there. Coat hangar wire bent into a little hook shape works well. A system flush is always wize too! That's why this one vendor sells the tube with the freeze plugs and water pump gasket as a kit. By-the-way, the one used in the 23" earlier engines, like the '36, are made of steel and not brass like the later version in the eBay ad link posted in #10 above.

You can see it in the end-on drawing of the engines of the period in any pertinent Master Maintenance Manual just alongside the top area of the piston shown, between there and the valve chambers. I think this is the simplest part to replace in an engine re-build!

Thanks, any idea when they first started using these on Dodge?

[1936 D2]

Ahhh... nope. Possibly when this block style started being used? :confused: