Guest Corvanti Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 first i want to thank "Ronnie", and his video on the "Reatta Owners Journal" on using the starter to remove the crank balancer. worked on the first click!!! once off, i could see that rubber was missing around the entire outer circumference - about 1/4 to 1/8th inch all the way around and several cuts inward...i started to remove the crank sensor from the front cover as indicated on page 6E3-C4-2 of the manual. no problem with the upper and lower bolts, but can't get a good "angle" to attack the smaller middle bolt from the top or bottom.please, any suggestions/comments? for background info, my 1st post about this is here: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/stumbling-problem-not-sure-where-start-325412.htmlthanks again, to all that have helped me "muddle" thru my first 'puter car i've had to deal with at this magnitude!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Thanks for visiting my website. I'm glad you find it useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Not quite sure where the "middle bolt" is? The bracket is located on a pin that is installed in the front cover and can be a real pain to remove. You should be able to remove the actual sensor from the bracket by loosening the clamp screw that pinches the slide portion of the bracket together on the plastic sensor. It is used to allow the sensor to be moved to center the vanes of the damper in the sensor. It only needs to be tight enough to keep the sensor from moving in the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Yes, the center pin gets corroded and really holds the bracket from coming off. Penetrating oil and a rocking (small hammer taps) motion will eventually free it.I've had to break the bracket in some cases. You can buy the sensor with, or without the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 thanks for the info on the middle "pin". i removed the crank sensor itself this afternoon, and would have thought it was a bolt with a broken head!!! i did purchase the sensor with a new bracket attached. soaking the old bracket overnight with pb blaster. if all else fails, was thinking about putting the new sensor on the old bracket.with either, i'm concerned about the .025 clearance with the new balancer. it doesn't look like the "clamp screw" is accessible with the balancer on. is this correct?next is replacing the oil pressure sensor, and "since i'm there", clean the electrical connectors on the cam sensor.my goal is to have this, the fuel problems, window, etc. complete prior to the end of june so i can make the 4 hour trip to concord, nc to "hang out" with some of y'all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 The clearance to the balancer is not critical as long as there is "some" and it does not rub on the sensor when the engine is rotated. The head of the clamp screw faces straight down and is accessible with the front of the engine fully assembled. As long as there is a little friction on the sensor it shouldn't move if you choose the remove the balancer to lock it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 ok, got everything put back together, but the bracket that is in front of the crank balancer - that holds the little "strut", is rubbing against the new balancer. i've loosened it all up to see if i can get it to line up correctly. any suggestions? i can't find anything in the manual...btw: i posted a new album here with a pic of this area after i loosened it back, along with a few pics a day or so after i purchased it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 success!!! i got the bracket and little "strut" adjusted where it won't hit the front of the crank balancer. started right up - no crank balancer noise, and the new oil pressure gauge works correctly. and the "electrical problem" light never came on the dash. i let her idle up to operating temp, and took her out - got about 100 feet, and the fuel pressure problem raised its head again. stumbled and died. background on that: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/fuel-pressure-reading-help-326309.htmlafter a minute or so, i got it started and back in the 'cave. i'm going to the local "old-time" hardware store nearby, with the old fuel filter and my fuel pump tester in hand to make sure the connections to check the pressure behind the fuel filter fit correctly, as suggested by "Mc_Reatta"... gotta a feeling it's going to be the fuel pump since everything else seems to be fine - including the regulator...oh, and no new codes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 If you do test the fuel pump ahead of the filter assembly, the "deadhead" pressure of the fuel pump should be considerably higher than the regulated pressure seen at the fuel rail. Probably about double or so, possibly more. I know I have cranked my regulated pressure over 60psi and with boost added, about 70 psi or so at the rail. Edit: I looked at the Walbro site for the standard pump performance curve and it exceeds 100 psi. My $0.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now