Richard Lichtfel Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 I have a friend that has a 1928 Buick. It's an older restoration but in excellent condition. It is hard starting and has very little power. He thinks it needs a valve job but I don't know without testing it. I am a good mechanic and have manuals on the older cars that I work on but I have nothing on this engine. Would anyone know a good source for a repair manual and parts for this engine. Six cylinder, overhead valve. Thank you, RHL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Try here... Buick Heritage Alliance | Archives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Lichtfel Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Thank you, this will be a start.RHL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 RHL, First you need a couple of manuals, the reference, or operators manual and a shop manual. You can find both on Ebay most of the time. Here is the reference manual. 1928 BUICK Full Line Owners Manual User Guide | eBayMost of the time bad running, if it was running good before, is bad fuel and debris inside of the carb. The two main jets can plug easily and result in poor/bad running and no power. The carb is easy to clean. When you pull it apart you will see two long tubes, one longer than the other, these are the ones I mean. Here are a pic of them. And it is easy to do a compression test to check the condition of the valves sealing.Let us know what you find out. Oh, and can send a Marvel carb manual via email if you want it just let me know. unimogjohn@aol.com 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Lichtfel Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Thank you John for your reply.I pulled the plugs and did a compression test, all cylinders 60 psi except number 5 which was 18 psi. Plugs were carboned up, I cleaned up and gaped at .028. Noticed bubbling in the radiator that indicates blown head gasket or cracked head. The carburetor is screwed up. The car is running very rich with a black exhaust. The low speed adjustment on the bottom of the carb was screwed in tight and it didn't help to adjust it. Are rebuild kits available for this carburetor?Thank you, RHL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 RHL. Agree you need a new head gasket. You can get a new head gasket and the intake and exhaust gaskets from Olsens Gaskets out in WA. Olson's Gaskets Their prices are reasonable and products excellent.On the carb adjustments. The adjustment wheel on the bottom of the carb has a notch on it. Close the valve and then just back off until the notch is parallel to the post. This was the factory setting and adjusted during the run in of the engine. The air gap knob on the top of the carb should be at the same height as the little holding arm. This is an initial adjustment. For best running you have to screw it out or in a couple of clicks and drive the car to see if there is any improvement in running. On car rebuild kits. None available that I am aware of. But they are simple, you can make your own gaskets and just clean up the needle and seat for the float mechanism. The correct size cork is available from Bob's Automobilia for less than $10. You have to coat it with Superglue to make in work in today's gasoline and not get gaslogged. Remember these carbs do leak. You have to turn off the gas at the fuel pump/vacuum tank when you turn off the engine. If you do not you will soon find a big puddle of fuel on the floor and your vacuum tank empty.The car needs full choke to start, but can be pushed in almost immediately to the full off position. If you have to leave the choke pulled out half way or more then you have debris in your jets.Hope this all helps. Good luck. Keep us posted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff jacobson Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 I bought one several years ago no power etc. The seller had some expert work on for over a month. I discovered the carb float had sunk. I used an epoxy clear paint on the old cork floats. Problem solved! It started good with sunk floats but befudded the locals. I also freed up and lubed air valve. It had a blown head gasket leaking water down the bolt holes into crank. I literally had to drill out head water passages as they were varnished over. Runs like a top now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff jacobson Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 My 28 uses the alternate firing order. Most manuals state the standard which does not work well just an FYI. Also the timing mark on flywheel is difficult to see. When you static time the car make sure you lwver is in full retard Firing order: 1 2 4 6 5 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 I think u mean 142635. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Buick Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) Wow, a 12 year old thread that is still relevant. No need to fuss with a cork float. Bob's plastic float will not sink. https://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/carburetor-items/1926-35-marvel-carburetor-plastic-float-cf-265n/ Just connect a vacuum gauge, running a tee from the wiper hose or vacuum tank or anywhere that makes sense. Engine timing is optimal at highest vacuum reading. 142635 is correct. Rock auto still sells the licensed repair manual and supplement: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1928,series+115,l6,952245,literature,repair+manual,10335 Edited September 9 by 28Buick (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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