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New user-starting procedure help


Guest OlDodge26

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Guest OlDodge26

I have a 1926 DB sedan - 4cyl that I need some instruction on. I am a new owner and have very little experience with antique cars.

The car had been sitting for quite some time, perhaps 15 years. A friend and I have flushed out the radiator, put new plugs/wires and coil and also changed the oil. My question is in regard to the timing, or advance/spark levers on the steering column. There are two, one above the other. I'm not sure which is the spark control and which is the throttle. I have the DB book of info, which isn't much help for this particular issue. It says the have the spark control lever in the "retarded" position - but I'm not sure if that is up or down. I also don't know whether I have single unit starter or not which it mentions.

I have been able to get the engine to start and run, but not smoothly. It's very finicky. I don't know if its not running properly just because its been so long since its been used, or if I am not setting these adjustments properly when starting/running. I am also concerned that the coil (that is what I am calling the cylindrical housing that is connected to the distributor) gets extremely hot.

Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks.

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Ok. You stated you changed the coil. This tells me you have a 6 volt system. Easiest way to tell is to look in the engine compartment and see if the starter goes into the bellhousing on the drivers side. A water pump and generator would be on the passenger side.

The 12 volt system has a starter/Generator combo on the drivers side bolted to the front of the engine. The passenger side has a waterpump/distributor/coil assembly.

What voltage is your battery?

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Guest OlDodge26

I posted some photos of the car in an album just now with 2 showing the engine bay and coil. Hopefully that shows what type of system I have - I was under the impression it is a 12 volt since that is the size of the battery, but again, this is all new to me.

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Nice looking machine. I like that shade of blue. It looks like you have a 12V system. On the passenger side of the engine, you have the water pump driving the distributor and the thing aft of the distributor is the original coil. The coil on the firewall is a modern retrofit. On the driver's side of the engine you will see a cylindrical object attached to the lower forward side of the engine- this is the starter/generator (yes, one unit does both functions). You should be able to sync out which way the throttle lever goes for a fast idle (look at the carburetor linkage as you move the lever up and down). When the lever pulls the linkage aft, that opens the throttle for a fast idle. The same goes for the spark advance lever except I can't remember which way is advance. Usually, the spark is fully retarded for starting (especially if using the hand crank). I'm sure more seasoned drivers will remember how it goes and post here...

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The upper lever is the throttle, the lower is your spark advance/retard. The throttle is pushed upward to open and the spark lever up to advance.

Starting procedure from cold is:

Prime the vacuum tank through the plug on top (about half a cup) if the car has not been started for some time. Open the valve at the bottom of the tank so petrol (gas?) can flow to the carburettor.

Retard the spark (bottom lever fully down). Apply about 1/3 throttle (top lever up).

Pull choke out about 1/2-3/4". Turn on igntion and hit starter.

Immediatly the engine starts, fully advance the spark (lever all the way up). Push in the choke as soon as the engine will run without it. If the engine will not run without the choke applied after about 30 seconds you may have to adjust the mixture - see book of information.

However, the technique set out in the book for final adjustment does not seem to work with modern fuels - possibly due to different volatilty. I have had some success by leaning off the mixture until you get bangs and pops on closing the throttle. Then gradually enrichen until the noise ceases.

Hope this helps

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You may also end up having a problem with that modern coil if it does not have the correct resistor, I can embelish if need be

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Guest OlDodge26

Thanks for the help guys, I will try all of the things you mentioned out and see what happens. I appreciate the compliments on the car. Its a little rougher than it appears at first glance upon closer inspection but overall in decent shape. I was always curious as to the paint selection my granfather chose but after seeing photos online, it appears he was trying to go for an original scheme. I've seen this model with and without the pinstripe, and with/without the painted wheels. I did that myself just trying to see what they would look like. I'm indecisive whether to keep them painted or return them to the bare wood which I really like as well. The inside is gutted right now for a redo of the upholstery which I hope to have done in about a month. More to follow...

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