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1953 Riv axle end play


trickrk

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Ok, I replaced my rear axle bearings, seals, and races.

I am getting ready to reassemble and close up the housing. I installed the spacer block in its original position. The manual states that the rear axle end play should be between 0 and .008". When I place a feeler gauge between one shaft end and the spacer block I have more than .008". Per the manual I rotated the block 1/4 turn, but it will not slide in between the shaft ends in this wider configuration. Both shafts are pulled out as far as they will go and the U clips are seated in the recess on both sides. Are you supposed to measure one side at a time or use two feeler gauges and measure both sides together?

I have attached photos of the spacer block. One side is machined but has what looks like wear from the axle shaft ends on the two opposing sides. The other (thicker side) is not machined.

What do you guys think? Any input is appreciated

Rick in Michigan

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Willie, I did not have a feeler gauge large enough to get an accurate measurement of what it was. The spacer block will move around on the large retainer pin that slides through it. How do you get an accurate measurement? should I force it to one side and then measure the gap?

I will try to find a larger gauge and get a proper reading

Thanks

Edited by trickrk (see edit history)
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Willie, I did not have a feeler gauge large enough to get an accurate measurement of what it was. The spacer block will move around on the large retainer pin that slides through it. How do you get an accurate measurement? should I force it to one side and then measure the gap?

I will try to find a larger gauge and get a proper reading

Thanks

Usually the largest feeler in a set is 0.025" and if the gap is larger than that you need to close it. If machinists' measuring devices are not available you can stack the feelers and then add up what you have; then measure the block plus feelers with a good caliper to get the thickness of block that you need. If only a few ten thousands needs to come off the thick side of the block you can do that with sand paper on a glass plate...or take it to a machinist ($40+).

Willie

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What Willie isn't making totally clear is that you rotate the spacer block if it is too far out of spec, and if it is too tight once you have rotated it THEN sand one side of the (as of yet unused) side of the block. I can almost guarantee that once you have turned the block to the unused side it will be darn near too tight. Some endplay is OK.

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Thanks Mike,

I understand what you are saying. I am still trying to get a different feeler gauge to get an exact measurement of what I have. Once I do I will report back. The manual states that an acceptable gap is from .000 to .008". So I am guessing that as long as it will slide in or out with out much force I will be ok. I need to figure out where to have it milled down. Any ideas?

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