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66-69 Riviera, parts worth picking?


Pontiac59

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There's one of these in a you-pick yard near me. Wondered what was worth saving off it, since in a few weeks it gets crushed with whatever's still on it.

Decent 90-fin drums, 430 engine, missing carb, missing power antenna but dash switch was there, I took the tilt column out of it, missing radio. Has bench seat, cluster has a speed alarm thing on it (I forget what Buick calls it), no A/C; most body panels have some rot but there is a solid deck lid stuck in the back someone must have intended to put on. Car was mostly complete otherwise, even the hide-away headlights and doors were all there. I'm not 100% sure which year other than the ignition was on the dash and it had the 430 so I presume it's a 67 or 68.

Odd that these cars have two inside door handles, one positioned so rear seat passengers can reach up and open the door.

The drums are stuck, not turning, but I plan to go back for them, so if there's anything else I should take it would be good to know. All of these yards work the same way, and with scrap up they're crushing more often because a lot more cars are coming in. And I'm not sure when it got put out.

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If it has the "two handle" operation on the inside door panel as you describe, it is a '67, not a '68 or '69. And by virtue of the fact you say it has a 430 then it's not a '66.

Good trim pieces and exterior light lenses are hard to come by, might be worth grabbing if in good shape.

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Guest wildcat62
Odd that these cars have two inside door handles, one positioned so rear seat passengers can reach up and open the door.

That was nice for those of us back in the olden days. I know my parents didn't buy no stinkin' four doors just cause they had kids ;)

Few Buick parts are reproduced, if they are in decent shape and a reasonable price, it's a good idea to grab them. Somewhere, someday, someone will need that part.

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Assuming its a 67 off the top of my head:

Items marked with an * indicates slightly more valued

The following if not pitted or damaged:

Front edge hood trim *

Trunk edge trim *

Rear tail light bezels *

Short lower quarter trim in front of rear wheels *

Hood Spear

Rear quarter "eyebrow" trims

L&R chrome trim pieces between license plate and tail lights *

Stainless if not dinged:

Wheel well moldings *

Front and rear window moldings

Drip rail moldings

Door and rear quarter top window trim moldings

Lower door and front fender moldings. Use care to not break the original mounting hardware as it is valuable.*

Rocker moldings if by some miracle aren't damaged. One year only item.*

Misc

Clock and Speed Alert set knobs. The clock knob has a special small tubular hex nut. you need a small allen to remove. These are like gold*

Take the ignition switch and the plastic connector if its not melted. *

Rubber fillers to bumper on the drop tines on front of hood if they aren't dry rotted.*

Ash tray springs - there are two, one on each side.

Glove box liner if in good shape - watch out they are fragile.

See if it has a vacuum trunk release - if so get the power unit and hardware from trunk lid as well as the red switch button in the glove box. Take the vac hose and floor pan retaining brackets if you can get them.

Original jack and retaining hardware if in decent shape.

Rubber water drain tubes inside trunk if not dry rotted.... particularly at the base portion that protrudes below the trunk floor. The soft rubber flap prevents dust from getting in but lets water out. These can be a bit of a pain to get at the phillips screws at the base. Use care when removing to prevent damage.

Door panel bezels that house the power window and seat switches if so equipped. If they are pitted, don't bother.

The front brake drums are only worth taking if they aren't too rusty, are in good condition and have not been machined over spec. They need to be nice to get decent money.

The other misc dash switchs like wipers, antenna, etc are a dime a dozen IMO and rarely fail but you can take them if so determined.

The instrument panel itself as a whole typically isn't worth the effort unless it has cruise control. You might get $60 for it. The flexible printed circuit laminate on the back has some value.

Check to see if it has a limited slip axle. If so, unless you could get it really cheap its probably not worth the effort if you have to remove yourself whether its the complete axle or just the diff and pinion. Both are labor intensive in a yard.

Oh - If that deck lid is rust free, take it if you have room to store it.

I could go on but that should keep you busy for awhile.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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This car just might have cruise, there's some kind of vaccuum ball behind the motor with ball chains going into the linkage. I think it also has the Speed Alert, but I don't remember it saying that exactly on the dash - did Buick refer to cruise by some other name that year?

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This car just might have cruise, there's some kind of vaccuum ball behind the motor with ball chains going into the linkage. I think it also has the Speed Alert, but I don't remember it saying that exactly on the dash - did Buick refer to cruise by some other name that year?

It can not have both. The same setpoint dial and internal speedo mechanism used for speed alert is used for the cruise. Its one or the other.

If it has the vacuum unit connected to the throttle linkage with a chain that is cruise. Double check the instrument panel because the set dial for both is the same except it will say Speed Alert or Electro Cruise

If you decide to take the cruise option parts you'll need the instrument panel, the electronic control behind the glove box, the vacuum power unit and chain and the brake pedal deactivation switch.

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