1923 Buick starting settings

[Guest oznam]

I own a 1923 Buick Opera Coupe 6 cyl. Having trouble starting it. Can anyone tell me what the settings are for the throttle and spark advance?

[unimogjohn]

Oznam, I use full advanced with modern gas using the starter. Full retard if using a crank. Usually do not have to use the throttle, however, it does take full choke when cold.

Here is how I start my 23. Hope that this all helps. Give us a report and pics too.

[Brian_Heil]

I agree with John on the spark, in fact you can and should set the timing even further advanced then per the book. Send me an email if you need more help on this.

Assuming you still have the stock Marvel carburetor try the following.

As for choke and thottle settings when 'cold', my engine is very picky about this and the old timer I bought it from 16 years ago gave me these instructions on a long since lost manila card and unless I follow them, it does not start easily. I of course thought, what does this old guy know and tried to start it with out his instructions and failed.

Cold Engine: Spark fully advanced, choke lever full to the right clockwise as far as it will turn, thottle lever at 3 o'clock. Crank until it barks, (this is about 2 seconds). Next, move choke lever counter clockwise to the first screw head on the choke lever bracket (this is about 2 o'clock) This is key. Crank and start (this takes about 2 seconds). As the engine clears up, reduce throttle to a high idle. After about a minute turn choke fully off. In another couple of minutes return throttle lever to normal idle.

Hot: Just crank, starts right up. No thottle, no choke, full advance.

No Man's Land: Trying to re-start after about a minute of running when cold (like pulling it out of the garage and turning it off). There seems to be no hope. So if you start it 'cold' keep it running until warm.

Interesting, the Owners manual states these same choke positions including pointing the lever at the first screw head of the bracket on the second cranking.

I gave these same instructions to another 1923 owner with stock Marvel and he too swears by them.

I have also started my '23 when it would not crank in Michigan in February after sitting since Thanksgiving with the hand crank and 17 below zero Fahrenheit with the same instructions but I did retard the spark to save my wrist from a fracture and it started right up. Why? It was a dinner bet. My friend said, if that thing starts, I'll ride to dinner in it and pay. It was a fine meal! He still tells people how I tried to kill him with frost bite and exposure. I always suggest he make the wager again. My other car friends are always amazed. Not that the Buick started but that our mutual friend even had a wallet.

[Terry Wiegand]

You say this is a 1923 'Opera Coupe' - is it a Model 48? I have a 1922 Model 48. How about putting some photos on here. Mr. Heil and I have a mutual friend out in Rome, New York who has a 1923 Model 48. I am interested in seeing your car. My car has an original for 1923, Marvel Carburetor on it that has been professionally rebuilt/restored. It runs great with it. This really bothers me to say this in print, but, Brian is right about the starting procedure. I do exactly the same thing when starting the car from a completely cold condition and get great results. The only difference with my car is that I have a fully operational exhaust diversion fitting on the manifold and IT WORKS PERFECTLY. The engineers at Buick during this period really knew what they were doing. The gasoline at the time was about a half step above kerosene and we have come full circle in that the crap that passes for gasoline today is about as bad. The thing that Mr. Heil could do to really improve the performance of his '23 would be to do something about those 'scream-in-the-dark', colored wheels on that poor car he has. I think it is well know that all automobiles have souls, or feelings if you will, and his poor car is embarrased to be seen with these wheels and it will do whatever it has to do to drag its wheels to keep it from being seen in that condition. I'm sorry Brian, but your Buick whispered that to me in Flint in 2008. They don't call me 'The Buick Whisperer' for nothing.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

terrywiegand@prodigy.net

Phone - (620) 665-7672

[Mark Shaw]

Terry,

As I understand it, Brian's car is proudly wearing his college colors.

[Brian_Heil]

Terry, Terry, Terry.

Brother Shaw understands and even beat me to the punch.

We from the University of Michigan call that color Maize.

Go Blue!

[Brian_Heil]

And I did like the Mr. stuff, very nice.

Now for those voices you hear whispering in your head, how's that new treatment working for you?

[Guest Darryl]

I have a 23-4-35 with the vacuum fuel pump. The first thing I do, when the car has been setting for while, is hold the primer button, on top of the fuel bowl, down and count to 6 to make sure the fuel bowl if full. I then move the throttle and advance levers down about 1/3 of the way from the top and set the air setting to hot, stright up and down. it has always started after 1 or 2 cranks. I don't use the full choke because it tends to flood the engine.

Of course I am in Southern California and we don't have the cold winters.

[Brian_Heil]

I am running the stock S/W vacuum fuel pump as well. Electric pumps scare me, I've seen two cars burn up due to them and the fact is, none of them can be adjusted down to the 18 inches of head pressure that is required, that's something like 1/2 a psi. I didn't mention it, but when I park my car I have to shut off the petcock on the bottom of the vacuum tank or there would be no fuel in the vacuum tank when I went out a week later. OK, even 2 hours later. The needle valve in the Marvel does not seal very well. And, you bring up a very good point. If you should have a dry vacuum tank for some reason, crank with the choke on full for a few seconds and repeat, that S/W tank will bring some fuel up from the rear tank fairly quickly.

Interesting that Buick designed a little drip trough and hose for fuel leaks that could get on the exhaust take down pipe. Perhaps the new Marvels leaked out too?

[Brian_Heil]

And while I'm thinking of it (and I know its been mentioned before) there's a condition where your early vacuum fuel pump equipped Buick will start fine and then starve for fuel. After taking the S/W pump apart 6 times with no luck (that was me) and checking the fuel strainer in the tank and the little strainer in the S/W pump for being plugged, check two other things. 1) The air bleed hole in your fuel cap for being plugged (which was my problem) and 2) the similar atmosphere bleed hole in the lid of the S/W tank top cover (there should be a short pipe on it) or the top mis-installed and the bleed port in the body not lining up with the bleed hole in the tanktop cover.

You can laugh (and you should) but that piece of dirt lodged in the fuel tank cap bleed hole no larger than the tip of a pencil drove my previous owner crazy and was one of the reasons he sold the car. It would only drive for 5 miles at a time. Took me a day to find it too. That little S/W pump was sucking so hard on the fuel tank I kept hearing the fuel tank 'bong' like an empty oil drum as it deflected one of the fuel tank sides under vacuum forces. Removed the fuel cap to a great woosh of air going in.

[Mark Shaw]

This should help clarify the vacuum tank function....

Brian, 18" of static head is 0,649 psi for water & lightly less for gasoline. So as usual, you're right on with your estimation. I fully agree tht electric fuel pumps are problematic and should be avoided in these old cars.

Care%20of%20Stewart%20Vacuum%20Tank.pdf

[Terry Wiegand]

Mr. Heil,

Our 1922 Model 48 just so happens to have an upgraded for 1923, Marvel Carburetor, complete with the drip tray beneath

for flooded float bowl conditions. The engine runs just wonderful since the vacuum tank and carburetor have been professionally restored. I have never been a fan of putting an electric fuel pump on any engine designed for a vacuum tank.

Oh, by the way, did I mention that our '22 Buick has beautiful Black painted spoke wheels?

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

terrywiegand@prodigy.net

Phone - (620) 665-7672

[Guest oznam]

I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I tried the suggestions and it ran for a little while. I think I might be having trouble with the vaccuum tank. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

[unimogjohn]

Oznam, send me an email at unimogjohn@aol.com with your email address, and I will send you the S/W repair manual. Might help. John

[Mark Shaw]

Check your vacuum wiper tubing to make sure it is not leaking vacuum.

Make sure your fuel tank cap vent hole is not plugged.

Plug any leaks in the fuel delivery tubing between the fuel tank and the vacuum tank.

Check the pot metal lid on the vacuum tank for small cracks and seal them with Krazy Glue.

Fuel Vacuum

Tank Gaskets

Fuel Vacuum Tank Gasket

OD= 4-1/2 inches

ID = 3-3/8 inches

Hole Center = 3-7/8 inches

Thickness = 0.062"

GAS070 $3.50

Restoration Supply Online Catalog pg 44.