Guest Clayco Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I have an early 1916 touring with a cone clutch. The clutch has a bad chatter no matter how smoothly I feather the clutch on take off. A couple of guys told me that this was characteristic of the early DB cars with cone clutches but I find that hard to believe. It also grinds gears badly shifting from 1-2 and 2-3. I've tried double clutching but that doesn't seem to help. Someone told me to try shifting without using the clutch but I can't get it to shift into gear withoug depressing the clutch. Is there a driving technique I should be using to aid in shifting?My drive shaft is also clunking (bangin) when I let out the clutch. I'm thinking that it's a bad U-joint. I purchased the car previously restored with these problems and have not torn into it. I am afraid it's shoddy workmanship but before I tearh into it, I thought somebody out there could give me some insight of what I may be in for.Any help is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Cone clutches are not fun. Never seen one that was not jerky. Shifting shouldn't be that bad though. I would suggest trying to take off in 2nd instead of 1st except on a steep incline. 1-2 shifts are kinda tough and you really only get about a car length before you have to shift anyway. I would suggest changing the tranny gear oil to 600W mixed with medium grease to thicken it up. Helps the cluster gear stop spinning so you can double clutch and shift easier. Better check that u-joint. Cone clutches are real hard on ring and pinion too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Clayco Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Thank you Dave. Great suggestion worth trying for sure. I will do that before I tear apart the car. It just doesn't make sense that I cannot shift more smoothly without grinding the gears. Slowing down the cluster makes sense. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickBrinker Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 1 quart 600 wt oil 2 tubes of grease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMF Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) Why is it necessary to add the two tubes of grease? I only use 600 W steam cylinder oil and have no problem with gear grinding (unless I hurry the shifting).The addition of grease must make it really tough to shift in cold weather. It's tough enough using just the 600 W oil. Also I always double clutch and start out in 2nd gear. Edited September 18, 2011 by FMF (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Some shift better than others, condition perhaps? I have 1 I run 90W in and it shifts wonderful. I have had others that even the grease thickened 600W was not enough. I also run new sealed bearings so the gear oil leaking past the old cork seals is not an issue. The thicker oil will also help them run quieter.I do keep wondering in the back of my mind if the thick oil doesn't rob horsepower, of which there is not an over abundance of to begin with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Hi,,,I would think the owners manual would say something about putting a bit of Neatsfoot oil on the leather facing,,,It should be real smooth,,,Something is wrong here,,,Good luck,,,,Look closely,,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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