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1940 spark issue (coil)


Guest joe buick

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Guest joe buick

Hi, Can anyone tell me if when you hold the coil wire to a ground (like the valve cover nut) should you see 1 spark or a bunch of repeating sparks when cranking the engine on a 1940 buick super 6v

Thanks Joe

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Check that your point gap is correct. I have had the screw loosen on my points, and the gap close down to the point where I was not getting a spark. So, even if you have checked it recently, its worth a quick look.

My local auto parts store still carries 6v coils, so if you have checked everything else, it is worth a try to swap in a new one.

Be sure you have a good strong battery, fully charged. It could be that the effort to crank the engine is pulling down your battery voltage to the point that you are not able to generate enough voltage. This is what happened to my friend's Packard - we chased a number of things, including swapping coils - then topped up the battery and had success.

Jeff

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Joe Buick,

Your coil doesn't know it's supposed to spark 4 or 8 times per revolution. That's the distributor caps job, along w/ the points. You get the high tension lead (center heavy wire) anywhere near a ground with the ign on and youl'll get a real wake up call.

Mike in Colorado

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Guest joe buick

Mike, i took the center wire off the distributor (still attached to the coil) put it near the valve cover nut then cranked the engine, got 1 spark engine keept cranking no more spark, untill i stoped cranking then started again then another single spark.

Now i did it again and dont see any spark this is whats making me think the coil is bad or week. my cousin will check the points tonight maybe replace them & condenser

Thanks for the help

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You rely on the points opening to collapse the field that the battery has devloped around the primary windings. The collapse of this field cutting across the secondary winding produces the high voltage required to jump across the plug gap (or air gap to ground in this case).

The rotor and cap, of course, distribute this high voltage to the appropriate plug.

So, there are two distinct functions at work here.

I think you need the points working correctly to produce this spark.

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Guest joe buick

Ok, so my cousin came over and adjusted the points "the correct way"told me there is nothing wrong with my coil, and if i ask again about the coil he would hit me with it So as far as im concerned coil is good! now on to the dirty jets in the carb!

Guys thanks for all the help.

Joe C

B.Q.E. Boys

Brooklyn N.Y.

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Ok, so my cousin came over and adjusted the points "the correct way"told me there is nothing wrong with my coil, and if i ask again about the coil he would hit me with it So as far as im concerned coil is good! now on to the dirty jets in the carb!

Guys thanks for all the help.

Joe C

B.Q.E. Boys

Brooklyn N.Y.

Joe,

Call "Bob's" in Calif. and get yourself a carb rebuild kit PLEASE !!!!

You'll find all kinds of crap in the float bowl. Install only the parts of the kit that you think nesssary, but you'll have them all if needed.

Carb rebuild is easy. Then you'll know it's right and you can take that off your list.

Mike in Colorado

:D:D:D

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Guest joe buick

Mike carb is going to an old timer that had a rebuild shop for years, he will look at it and see if he can clean it up for this weekend, i want to take it to a show that we have on sunday.

Question about the starting, when the engine gets hot the car wont start by the foot pedal

i have to jump it at the starter, the car has to lay overnight for me to start it from the pedal again, can it be the switch on the carb?

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Joe,

Most likely the thermal switch @ the carb.

Grant had a fix w/ a short jumper wire across the 2 wires on the engine side of the carb. or installing a push button switch under the dash, so you don't have to lift the hood to start a hot car. You don't leave this jumper connected after she starts.....

Mike

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Guest joe buick

Up date on the 40 super, Had the car running saturday put new regulator on after i replaced the battery, ran pretty good for about 1/2 hour then i took my son to his friends house and blew an exhaust manifold gasket, trying to get it repaired today!

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Joe,

What do you mean "blew a gasket". Were the nuts tight ? Pictures please. Usually they just start leaking a bit and get worse as you drive along.

Did you do the jumper wire or the hidden push button ? I don't see any posts re a rebuild kit for the thermal switch. Need some experts to jump in here.

Mike in Colorado

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Guest joe buick

Hey Mike, I sent Grant an e-mail but have not heard from him about the starter switch, I located a nos one on line but waiting for the guy to send a price, if i get that or a rebuild kit either way i will do it over the winter,I replaced the battery for the second time (thinking it was not good) it would drain down in a few hours, then my cousin remembers that the regulator acts as a switch also? So i replaced that, also put on a battery disconnect so if i have to charge it the battery i can disconnect it, the car starts right up on saturday running good for about 1/2 hour drove to a friends house on the way the exhaust gasket blew, sounded like the muffler fell off, at the top of the exhaust manifold more to the back of the engine a peice of gasket came out about 2'' long, could be original gasket from the looks of it not sure yet the car is at my friends shop with new copper gaskets hopfully they can get it done tomorrow (tues cruise night)

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Joe,

I've seen "headers" for strt 8's, usually home made. Look under your car @ the frame construction. There are specific holes on the driver's side reserved for exhaust pipe. And a good source of rattles and klunks, unless the pipe is suspended properly. None on the passenger side. You would have to run the pipe under the frame. Not good looking.

Now you could consider a 4" lake pipe "cutout" under the driver's side front fender. That would wake the dead !!!!!

Mike in Colorado

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Guest Grant Magrath

As The Old Guy says in the other thread, a 41 manifold might be the answer. And I'm PM'ing you when I get home from work tonight Joe!

Cheers

Grant

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The more I hear about the "carburettor starter switch" problems (I assume that's what Mike is referring to as a thermal switch) the more I am beginning to suspect that the problem may actually more than often (or oftener :) ) be in the regulator and not providing a good grounding or earth for the starter solenoid. Those things are a bit temperature sensitive.

I guess the simple process of elimination tests are to firstly do the test that from this day on and forevermore to be known as the "Grant's starter switch bypass test" at the starter switch and then just directly ground the starter at the solenoid to eliminate the regulator as the problem. I must say I like the Buick starting technique of pushing the pedal to start the engine and always have a little sigh when I see or hear of a push button used to start these beasts.

Danny

Edited by danhar1960 (see edit history)
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Guest joe buick

Hey Dan,

After all this i found out that the regulator was killing my battery, so i replaced it, when i did the car started by the foot pedal just fine! and kept starting the same way, no battery drain everything good, untill i took the car out tuesday night car started fine a couple of times even hot, then on the way home it stalled and would not start by the foot pedal i had to jump it with a wire(i still did not put the push button switch in) got the car home and the next day it started fine again! driving me nuts!

Joe C.

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Guest Grant Magrath

They come up on eBay from time to time. I imagine there would be a company in your part of the world that may be able to knock a few up! We've made parts in the past. See old posts on our park light lenses and vent window post lock stainless clips.

Cheers

Grant

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