Trunk lid prop: use the locking stock rod or convert to two gas rods?

[Guest pyrodork]

my car is far from doing anything about this, but knowledge is power. that said, i hope my posts aren't considered "overposting" because they always say the stupid question is the one never asked. i figure if i'm wondering something, somebody else probably is, too.

now onto the question:

on my 37, the stock prop rod for the trunk lid was kind of a pain to get to unlock and come down. maybe i just wasn't doing it right (is there an instruction manual (haha) or lube point?). anyway, sometime before i bought it, someone else had the same problem and bent/tore some of the steel and broke the hinge. i assume that's a common problem. i disconnected the prop and i'm not using it now, but i still have it. i thought it'd be a great idea to convert to gas prop rods on both sides, but i have no idea about what length to get, where the mounting points would need to be... or even if it's a good idea. i'd like to hear people's input on this. if someone has done the conversion, pictures and measurements would be great! if it's a dumb idea, don't be afraid to say so. if the common answer is to learn how to use the stock one, let me know how i'm supposed to lower the lid properly without it getting stuck (i assumed you pulled the center "joint" towards you). i would also weld in reinforcements around the hinge and the lip where it bent/tore before to prevent it from damaging again (i bought a new hinge).

thanks!

[Rusty_OToole]

There is nothing wrong with the stock setup if it is working correctly and you know how to use it. A little fiddly to release sometimes but that is all.

The problem comes when someone tries to force the lid closed because they do not release the catch.

I would keep the stock release and not let anyone close the trunk except me or someone who knows how to do it.

If you want to use strut rods keep in mind they put a lot of pressure on the lid at all times, make sure it is strong enough. Also you have to be careful to get the right length and fit the mounts exactly in the right place so the lid will open all the way and close all the way.

[Guest pyrodork]

thanks, rusty! perhaps the strut rods are not a good idea. at least at this point in time.

how exactly is the "correct way" of releasing the catch? maybe there's an instruction sheet somewhere on the internet (haha)? i don't know exactly how it works, so sometimes it'll take me a minute or two before it will lower.

would it be better to use wd-40 (or equivalent) to lube it, household oil, or grease?

[Rusty_OToole]

I don't know exactly how your trunk prop works and I do not have one in front of me.

There were different types in use then. One kind was automatic. Lift it all the way once and it latches open. Lift it again and it releases.

Another kind had a sleeve you slide up to lock.

Another had a catch you work by hand.

If there is no catch, lever or sliding sleeve it is probably automatic. These would stop working if they got rusty, dirty or gummed up with grease.

You might need to clean it and use some penetrating oil. They did not require any lubrication in normal use.

[Guest pyrodork]

the best way i can describe mine is that it's 2 pieces of flat metal; one goes inside the other; one having multiple "catch levels" so you can prop it open at different height intervals. kinda sounds like it would be the automatic type, since there's really no moving parts (that i can see) besides the two pieces of flat metal.

the problem with mine is that when i lift it to release it, it catches again on the way down. i figured i had to position the "merging point" between the two pieces a certain way so it wouldn't catch while trying to close it. it usually takes a few lifts and drops before it goes down all the way.

i'll try some penetrating oil and see if that makes a difference.

[Ron of Chicago]

I had the same type on the Nomad I just sold and they were a pain. The good lube job may help pyro.

Here is the style on a 37 I am looking at.

[Guest pyrodork]

thanks!

yours looks like a coupe. mine's a 2-door sedan. it's nice to see what else was out there at the time!

i have one pic on hand that shows mine, i'll see if i can post it.

ok, you can kind of see it. at least should be able to recognize which type it is. only difference is that now the trunk has been cleaned out, the gas tank on the back of the seat has been replaced with a new tank -under- the car, no more spare tire, and the prop rod is disconnected on the bottom. with the damage to the trunk lid, i had to hold it up whenever i wanted it open, so now i can just tilt it back against the rear glass until i get the lid fixed. it would also flex at those points on the lid when i tried to close it unsuccessfully. disconnecting it works for now.

on a side note, you can somewhat see how bad my trunk floor pan is. i'm trying to find a replacement, but i haven't found any for a 37 specifically. i mentioned this in another post, but the next best thing i've found is a guy on ebay selling trunk floor pans from the 40's that are very close to the size i need. i'll do that if i can't find anything else.

[Rusty_OToole]

It looks like the kind that releases when you lift it up. Is there a lever sticking out that you could press to release?

The whole trunk area looks very dirty. Try blowing the latch mechanism clean with compressed air before you use the penetrating oil. If you can brush it out so much the better.

[Guest pyrodork]

i haven't noticed any release lever. where would it be?

yeah, i heard the car was owned by a farmer for 50+ years. never left the property until a guy bought it to rod it out, but never got to it in the 2 years he had it. after his heart surgery, he posted it for sale and i got it. i assume the floor being so rusted out in that spot is from some farm chemical that spilled. rusted out the original gas tank, so he fashioned his own.

i'd like to get someone to weld together the broken points in the lid before connecting the prop again. i think there's a guy down the street that has equipment. anyway, i'll do my best to get it cleaned out and lubed in the meanwhile.

[JACK M]

Here are two of my cars. The blue 36 coupe has had this gas strut mechanism that I built about 15 years ago and has been working without any problems since built. The trunk hinges on the coupes are pretty stout, they are original and they are hidden.

The 37 Desoto sedan is using an actuator that I got from Auto-loc. I am nervous about this one, as mentioned the hinges are fragile. (the hinges are fragile, rare and side specific).

I have an extra set of hinges which may be the reason that I have had no problems with it in the five or so years since I assembled it.

Its like going to the races, you never need the stuff you brought, the stuff you need is what you left home.

As far as fitment goes, it is not to hard to figure out. I uaually sit and look at the project for a six pack or so then I think about it for another day or two. Then it usually comes to me the best way to procede.

I like to make things work that are not supposed to.

Edited September 12, 2011 by JACK M (see edit history)

[Ron of Chicago]

Nice job on the struts Jack M

pyro, the mechanism you have is like the supports that they used to put on the rear window on camper tops for trucks. You might try an RV place. Bring it with you and you may find a place that has the same thing laying around in the back they can give you cheap seeing most of them today are the gas strut style.

Rusty hit it on the head. I too would blow them out real good to clean out any dirt, debris or cobwebs. Then oil them and see what happens.

Here are a couple of pictures of the ones from my Nomad. In the one picture you can see at the shiny spot the small latch that Rusty was talking about.

Edited September 13, 2011 by Ron of Chicago (see edit history)