Complete Brake Job

[Guest LH57]

I just purchased a 1957 Buick Special. It needs a complete break redo: master cylindars, the works. It had been sitting in a garage for 10 years, so a lot of parts are rotten. Does anyone have an idea on the dollar amount I'm looking at?

[Bhigdog]

REAL rough numbers. Master cylinder Re-bore/rebuild $100, new lines $250, new cylinders $140, new hoses $100. shoes $60. Power brakes add about $250. Assumes drums OK. Labor not included.

Kanter can supply everything one stop shopping but you can do better price wise through NAPA and individual vendors................Bob

[Guest De Soto Frank]

Not cheap, but worth every penny, I might add !

( actually full brake re-build is a lot cheaper than hospital bills, physical therapy and replacing sheetmetal, if you lose the brakes... but I think I'm "preaching to the choir" )

Good luck with your "new" Buick !

:cool:

[Larry Schramm]

Remember, That if you can not get it going you can not get in trouble, but if you can not stop it... you are in trouble!!

[Guest 36chev]

I take it no one would agree with Ettore Bugatti's retort when it was suggested he start using hydraulic brakes instead of cable mechanical on his expensive, fast cars. The legend has it that he replied "I make my cars to go, not to stop."

[Guest martylum]

I'm currently restoring a 53 Buick and have done all the brake items mentioned including new lined shoes, new wheel cylinders, new master, and turning the 4 brake drums. The 1958 Chiltons gave 10-12 hours for all these items. There is no estimate for replacing the steel brake lines and rubber hoses or for rebuilding the emergency brake system but all these items should be inspected on a long time storage old car.

My experience on the basic brake system work in closer to 16 hours for me if i have a good shop manual .

On a 53 Buick you can't replace the front to rear steel lines in one piece as it was done originally unless you just happen to have removed the body. Installing a tee or 2 will make a good but non-original installation.

Of course, Chiltons flat rate times do not anticipate rusted nuts and bolts.

If your brake rebuild doesn't work out too well on the maiden voyage you'll be real glad to have a functioning emergency brake.

Martin Lum

[RU22]

I've done complete brake rebuild many many times...... some ideas

NAPA has the hardlines in rolls. You cut what you need and roll it out on the floor to get the bends out of it

There are several good tube benders on the market. I grease the tubes outside. Makes the bending much easier Then clean up with brake cleaner when done

I use AN/Nuts and sleeves and AN fittings to connect everything

You can get any good hose shop to make teflon lines and use shrink tube to cover the stainless steel outside. Don't tell them they are brake lines. Most shops are afraid the make ''brake lines''

I have had problems with 'relined' cylinders. Suggest buying new or NOS cylinders Lester Harris may have some 775 267 2241 he's a great guy

I prefer a rock hard pedal and use real brake fluid. Changing it once per year rather than "silly-cone" We were sponsered racing by a company that sold the stuff. They agreed to let us run real fluid as long a we ran their sticker and told no one

So please don't post all the garbage about how wonderful the stuff is. I know it doesn't eat paint..... it also collects air! I'd rather stop well and take care necessary not to spill it all over :cool:

I use LOCTITE PST on the fittings NO TEFLON TAPE!

Steel or Stainless AN stuff. NO ALUMINUM

Hope that helps