Passenger door lock is stubborn

[bepnewt]

My driver's side door lock works fairly well. The passenger side scares me anytime I unlock it with the key. I have a feeling that if I do unlock it with the key a couple more times, I'm going to break the key. The one and only key I have.

So, first step is to order some blanks and get copies made. After that, I'd like to make the passenger lock not so stubborn.

(Q1) Is there a chance I could squirt something into the lock itself to loosen it up? I'm doubting this will solve the problem but I'll give it a shot if it's not a stupid idea.

I read a good thread here on getting the skin off and accessing the lock.

http://forums.aaca.org/f177/how-do-i-remove-door-locks-224709.html

(Q2) If I do end up going this route, what should I look for as the source of the stubbornness?

When I unlock the passenger side with the key, it's just a steady hard turn. As opposed to it being hard to turn and then suddenly turning easily.

I don't recall it being any harder to unlock from the inside than the driver's side.

-BEPNewt

[Jolly_John]

Brian, go to your friendly, nearby auto parts store or hardware store and buy a squeeze tube of "powdered graphite". Then, puff some of this powered graphite into the key hole of the lock. Also, puff some on the key (on the sides and top). Work the key in and out a few times. Then, slowly turn the key back and forth a number of times. If this procedure improves the "feel" of the lock, then repeat it one or two times.

I would definitely try the powdered graphite before doing any disassembly work. You may also want to puff your driver's side lock, as well. Good luck. John

[68RIVGS]

WD40 will do wonders in frozen, or stubborn lock cylinders too, and it's a little cleaner than the recommended powdered graphite !! After applying a liberal amount directly into the lock, work the lock button up 'n down to free up the internal door lock mechanism, and reduce any strain on the key. Allow ample time for the WD40 to soak in, and try your key in the lock cylinder to see if that improves your situation. You can use WD40 on all the lock cylinders to keep them in working order !!

[RivNut]

I agree with Randy on the use of WD-40 or something similar. I like PB Blaster myself; but to each his own. The liquid will creep into all the nooks and crannies and free up all those old time corroded parts. Besides using the red tube and squirting some directly into the lock cylinder through the key slot, I usually spray some into the door through the latch assembly and try to get all of the rods and levers as well. As Randy says, use the interior lock knob rather than the key to work it back and forth until it's free again. After squirting the cylinder with the WD-40 and without turning the key, run the key in and out of the cylinder a few times to make sure the tumblers are good and loose. You can tell when the lock is freed up entirely when opening the lock with the key raises the interior lock knob to its highest point. Chances are someone has used a lithium grease on some of these parts and over time the grease is now a solid chunk. The same thing happens to power seats and power windows when the grease gets old.

Ed

Edited May 8, 2011 by RivNut (see edit history)

[mt65riv]

Brian,

Is the inside door lock hard to move up and down? If it works well, without feeling hard to pull or push, it's probably a problem in the lock mechanism and the above treatments should cure it.

I have my door skin off and snapped a shot of the mechanism. There are about 7 points where the lever makes contact and should be lubed. If the inside lock pull is difficult, then the problem is probably in the mechanism itself.

Pulling the door skin isn't hard, but it would be easy to scratch the paint. I used a thin putty knife between the door skin and the frame on a few of the bolts that were spinning and not coming loose. Put the knife in and push lightly to pry the panel away from the frame while loosening the nuts. It worked on all the ones that were problems. The middle one in the front is the worst to get to. Put a couple layers of blue tape on the front fender to protect the paint. Take your time.

[68RIVGS]

Something else - if you do end up taking the door skin off, (...and you may not have to, after following Ed's advice), free up and lube the window pivot points and tracks while your in there, before you replace the outer door skin !

[bepnewt]

Thanks for all the info, all.

The car is away from the house for the weekend and I'll have it back tomorrow. I'll start messing with it soon.

My driver side power windows is a bit slow so taking off the skin and taking a gander might be smart, regardless.

-BEPNewt