Guest snaganddrag Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Ok so you guys have deemed this ride approx. a '20 DB maybe comercial car/truck. I can't find the serial number on the chasis behind the rear spring hanger on the RF spring, I also looked on the cross member under where the seat should be. Any other ideas?? I have a block number of either B56757 or 656757. I will try to upload some pics of the areas where I have looked all ready. Any help with the s/n location would be great!Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I THINK you should be looking "kind of above" the shackle at the rear of the front spring. The numbers are quite shallow and maybe 3/8 or 1/2 inch in height. Course sand paper should bring it up, light has to be JUST right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Knucklebuster Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 I dont know alot but I had these saved thought they might help.OR might make it more confusing who knows haha.I put the chrysler in there cause the engine code started with "B" but from what the experts say (about the model)I bet its an eight or a six. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 SOOO, did you find it.? By what the experts say your engine number "should" be about 50,000 more then the car's serial number. Replacements, trucks, and industrial are why the differance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snaganddrag Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 No still no luck with the serial number! I am going to take the floor off (as it is rotten anyway)and see if I can do any better on the cross member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snaganddrag Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I have tried looking in these locations......w/o any sucess! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Knucklebuster Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Any chance its one of those years that had the tag on the dash?IDK just puttin it out there. Saw it in these papers.and-Just to clarify a comment.Experts I referred to were the full of knowledge guys on this forum. I learn something every time I get on here. I wont name any names but...you know who you are:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snaganddrag Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I have looked on the frame all around my spring hanger and here on the only x-member (other then the tranny one) any other idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snaganddrag Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 If it was a tag on the dash, aren't they still eteched in the frame somewhere? But I definately don't have a dash plate anywhere! I am also learnign a great daeal from all these guys o here as well everytime I get on here to. Thanks to all for all your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Backyardmechanic Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 What is the wheel base? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Earlier than I know much about but in my opinion the frame looks a liitle rough to see any #s stamped into it. Just to clarify as it can be confusing. Leaf springs in the front, you have a front shackle that is closest to your rad. and you have the rear shackle that is nearer your bellhousing. It will be near the rear shackle, mine is to the right of the rear shackle or toward the front of vehicle, way up high toward the top of frame. Some DAs have the # stamped into the very top of frame so that it cant be seen unless you remove the fender. I had a car that was stamped that way so that is how I know it to be true. Good luck, maybe you will get lucky, try wetting the frame down and then scrubbing with a wire brush, it might helpNo dash tag by the way that I aware of Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Backyardmechanic Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 True 1930, I have seen the same on the 4 cylinders there was a tag orginial on the toe board but I have knowest that it's gone After studying the pictures that has been posted,I have knowest many differnt parts from different years as if like us or roy early parts useing up some overstock parts to make up a speedster to put into good use Vern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snaganddrag Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Correct that is where I have been searching around the shackle, I will try harder in front of instead of behind though. If no luck I will take fender off and try to locate there. My wheel base is 113" center to center of the hub mounts. Thanks again for all the continued support and help, you guys/gals are great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snaganddrag Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 OK so I finally found something! Yeah!!! I have attached the photo, I think it is "504575" the 0 could be a 0,8, or 3. There is a lot of pitts around it as well. Thanks again for all you guys/gals help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Looks like the top of the framerail, how about that, good to know they pulled that sort of crap on the earlier cars as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Backyardmechanic Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 No that's on top of the cross over under the seat .This frame date is July 1920 or 1921 series.vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Scafani Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 this is what the car looked like when new, the closed cars came with wire wheels and neville steering wheels. The bodies had a wood structure which rotted away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 (edited) Hey "Snag", Now that you found the location of the number, here are some tips from the forensic practitioner that I am... You DO NOT want to use any kind of tool that could possibly place deep scratch marks in the metal (such as a wire wheel, wire cup brush, metal scraping tool like a razor blade or gasket scraper, or any kind of a metal file). You also do not want to use any kind of chemical to attempt to remove the rust or corrosion at this point. The general technique is to sand the metal's number area with progressively finer and finer sand paper or carborundum until the area is as close to glass smooth as possible. During this process you do not want to add any scratches that are nearly as deep or as wide as the stamped number. You want to start with a grit that is SMALLER than the grooves the numbers are made of, and progress to a very fine grit, like a 1000 or even finer. Use a sanding block that compliments the shape of the metal surface you are working on. In your case - flat. If you can initially sand the most in a direction that does not seem to match any of the angles of the stamped figures, that is best. The idea is to progressively sand until the number is either just visible or until the greatest bulk of the most lightly stamped numbers are polished smooth and invisible. As you get to the super fine grits, any direction is OK. The idea at that point is making it smooth like glass. You can even move to a polishing compound if you have some. If you can't easily read the full number at this stage, then a coating of a gelled acid material is put on the area and allowed to sit for a short time in an effort to see the invisible numbers again. (Gelled because most of these number locations are on vertical metal). The idea here is that the acid will work its way through the "softer" uncompressed metal surrounding the numbers before it can attack the compressed metal in the number area. This process then makes the compressed number area (from the stamping process) stand out from the surrounding metal. Then, using a side lighting technique, grab some photos of the area. Sometimes these photos can be adjusted (contrast and brightness - etc) to help see the complete number. This whole process takes much patience. Do not rush it! Eventually you will see the best rendition of the number and you will have a confidence level that you are able to see the correct figures. Edited February 27, 2011 by 1936 D2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Or you can just hit it with a wire brush and any #s that are not so clear grind them off so that you dont have to worry about them any longer, out of sight out of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 (edited) Here is an annotated photo of a possibility for your number.I am also having trouble with the second number. It looks as though it COULD be a "5" also. I do not think it is as simple as a "0" or a "6". The red numbers were traced on a separate layer then lowered so as to not obscure the actual markings on the frame member. I took note that the first and last numbers seem to be tilted a bit on this era car. That may be a little recognized security measure. That seems to make the last number more like the "3" shown than a "5".This is, of course, all speculation from looking at a (very well done - by the way) photo of still a very rough stamped number.The blue indicators point to a referencing hole used by the tool that carries the number punches. There will always (as far as I know at this point) be one of these reference holes near any stamped frame numbers on pre-war Dodge and Chrysler Corp cars.And you know, after a while, you start seeing things. There almost looks like there is a "G" at a bit of an angle just above the "7"! (Shesh!!) :eek:Take these comments for what they are worth. They are just an opinion.You do need to know for sure though if going for "Build Records" from CHC. Edited February 28, 2011 by 1936 D2 Added Data (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Knucklebuster Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Watching this thread unfold has reminded me of episodes of CSI.And another john doe has been identified! Grissom would be proud of this crew, you guys rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snaganddrag Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Thanks 1936 D2! I am almost 100% sure of all numbers except the second # in this serioal. I was not able to take a picture from the best angle you can view with your eye. But you can see all the numbers pretty distinctly except for the second one if you look at the member at an angle, and the 5's all have a solid deep stamp in the bottom curve, and I feel like the second # is more of a 3 myself, it just seems to have too much going on around it to be a plain 0. I was just wondering if anybody had a pic of there s/n's as to a reference on the shape of the #'s they were using in this era. I too feel like I am working for CSI........... Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 (edited) "Snag"I think if you start to work with the techniques in post #18 you will start to see the second number more clearly.If you are a bit leery about doing that, first take a set of photos looking as straight down on the numbers as possible. Turn Off the camera flash so you can control how the numbers are lit. Move your light source that you then use to see the numbers for the photos around the serial number at about six to eight different positions (around the clock) and about 10 to 20 degrees above the surface. (That will make any shadowing effect within the serial numbers more pronounced).Study these photos with an open, objective mind. Maybe you will make out the number with confidence. If not, then start the sanding technique, stopping every now and then to do the same set of photos. Somewhere along this process you will be happy with a result.Have fun. Take your time! (Be sure to let us know what you found out - and what worked the best!) Edited February 28, 2011 by 1936 D2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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