1917 Buick water pump packing options and other q's

[Guest SteveInColorado]

Hello all. I've searched here for an answer to my question, and while I didn't find it, this is obviously a knowledgeable crowd. So here goes.

I'm trying to fix some things on my neighbor's Buick, and don't want to jump in headfirst before I have a little background. The first problem is the leaky water pump. The gland nuts look like there would barely be room to get a packing in there without pulling the pump. Can it be done in the vehicle? What size is the packing, and what works? I know the shaft surfaces will need to be inspected.

Also, from his description it sounds like he needs a new ring gear on his flywheel. Is it a removeable gear? Has anyone ever flipped one and gotten away with it? I suppose even if flipping it was possible, the flywheel may be so old that I could never get it off in one piece.

Last but not least, the carburetor. He says it leaks fuel, so I'm guessing the float or needle and seat have issues. From snooping through other posts, I'm assuming it's a cork float. Do they tend to get impregnated with modern gas and sink? Any pointers on what to do or not do in the carb?

Oh, and what is the big block behind the water pump, driven by the same shaft? I didn't look close at it, since he didn't mention any problems with it, but I couldn't identify it when I first saw it.

I appreciate any help, and thanks in advance.

Steve.

[TexRiv_63]

Steve,

If you have not already done so, post this on the Buick Prewar forum also on this site, many experts live there.

[Larry Schramm]

Steve,

The water pump will take some waterpump packing which can be purchased from some auto parts stores or McMaster-Carr. You might want to try to dig out the old packing carefully because there should be room to put new packing in the gland.

For the cork float on the carb, I agree with Mark Shaws fix of making a new float from cork if it is detorated and then seal the outside with super glue to keep the new fuels from soaking it.

The big thing behind the water pump is the generator and also the starter in one unit.

[Rusty_OToole]

I don't know about 1917 Buick specifically but on most of those old cars you tighten the nut a little every year or so to prevent leaks. When it hits bottom and will not tighten any more you unscrew the nut, put some more packing material behind it and tighten it up again. You never take anything out.

The usual packing material was an asbestos string soaked with graphite. There are modern materials to do the same thing and they can be found at plumbing and heating supply places or well equipped hardware stores. Hot water heating systems have pumps that use the same packing. It is not necessary to remove the pump.

If the gland nut has bottomed there is room for more packing, if not just tighten it up snug. You don't have to reef right down on it, just tight enough to stop the leak.

Old cars had cork floats that were sealed with shellac. Today's gas contains so much alcohol it washes off the shellac and the cork gets waterlogged with gas.

The repair is to take out the float, wash off the shellac with alcohol and set it in a warm place to dry for a few days. Then paint it with gas tank sealer, glyptol, epoxy paint or some other gas proof substance. Use a thin coat so you don't make it too heavy.

Another solution if the cork is deteriorated is to buy a new plastic float, and carve it to the same shape. Then seal it with gas tank sealer.

About the ring gear I do not know for sure but I would guess your idea is a good one and would work.

[Guest SteveInColorado]

The big thing behind the water pump is the generator and also the starter in one unit.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Thanks for the replies, guys. I was puzzling over what that thing could be, and also thinking about what I saw and didn't see. I finally decided that it must be a starter/generator, since I hadn't seen a generator and it went all the way to the flywheel. Does it have some kind of one-way sprague type clutch on the water pump side? Pretty cool setup. 30 hours ago I was ignorant of all things pre-war auto, now I'm intrigued.

Thanks again,

Steve.