Fluid Recommendations - 1927 Brougham Sedan

[Guest Rkycacher]

Hello - Long time admirer, first time poster...

I am a new owner of a Brougham Sedan. I'm just getting started with my restoration and look forward to sharing my experience and leaning on the experience of others on this forum. My Buick hasn't run in about 20 years. I am in the process of obtaining an owner's/repair manual, but can't wait to get started...

I plan to start marching through Rusty OToole's write-up for starting an old engine this weekend; however I made the mistake last weekend to start re-freshing the fluids (I know I jumped the gun...).

Can someone please advise me on what fluids I should use in my Buick? If this is posted elsewhere please let me know...

• What kind of engine oil do you recommend? How much oil should my '27 require (I don't know if I have a side-plug or not)?
  
• What do you recommend for other fluids?
  
• Additionally, I've got to replace the battery this weekend. I've read online that some people recommend upgrading from a 6 volt to an 8 volt. What do you recommend for a somewhat colder climate (Denver)?
  

Thanks!

Jody

[TexRiv_63]

Welcome to the forum, we would all like to see some photos of your car if you can post them. If your car has not run in 20 years you do need to change all the fluids but there are other things I would recommend you do before trying to start it:

-drain engine oil, drop the pan and clean out all the sludge, be sure to clean any screen filters. Get your gaskets at Olson's.

-drain the gas tank, remove it, and be sure it is clean and not rusted out. Blow out the fuel lines and be sure the gas cap vent is open. You may want to do the first start with a small portable gas tank run right to the carb bypassing the rest of the fuel system.

-remove and rebuild the vacuum fuel pump and carburetor, they will probably be gummed up with old gas varnish.

-remove the spark plugs, clean and regap. Also file and check the point gap.

I'm not a Buick expert but my guess on fluids would be 30 or 40 weight non-detergent engine oil and 600W gear lube for the trans and rear axle.

I learned a lot of this the hard way by NOT doing it and causing more trouble! Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

[Alfa]

I completely endorse what Don suggests. If your car has been stored indoors, hopefully the fuel tank etc will not be in poor condition, but it is as well to check.

Regarding the battery, the 6 volt unit should be fine. If the starter etc is slow, that is the fault of the starter, not the battery. I have a ford and a Packard from the 1920s both running standard 6 volt set ups with no problems. I must admit I would tend to stick with the 6 volt set up until you can assess the rest of the car. At least that way you will be able to have it running sooner !!

Please do post some pictures, that is a very interesting car and good luck with getting it running.

Adam Moody

[unimogjohn]

Don is 100% correct, follow his advice. Adam is also right, stick with 6 volts. Take it step by step for getting ready to start and take your time to do it right.

You should have a dip stick. Driver's side of engine, you should see a large button or a hoop to pull out. Should take about 7 quarts.

[Mark Shaw]

All good advice above.... I use SAE 250 gear lubes in both the rear end and tranny for my cars. Texaco Thuban or Shell Dentax are brands I have used and come in 5 gal pails. I suggest non detergent engine oil for original engines; you should not use "detergent" oils in engines that do not have full flow filters.

I also suggest you use PB Blaster or other penetrating oil to pre-lube pistons, bearings, rockers, etc before cranking the engine with plugs removed.

Last but not least: When you do get it running, make sure it stops before you go....

My 2 Cents...

[TexRiv_63]

Jody,

Adam is right, 6 volts work fine if everything is in good shape. Get an Optima red top battery if you can, high powered and won't leak. And check out the cables, they can be the biggest problem with a 6 volt system if they are corroded or undersized. If in doubt replace 'em with double o gauge and clean all the connections.

[Guest Rkycacher]

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the great advice. I’ve been traveling for work lately, but finally had some good garage time today to start working on your suggestions :-)

- I drained the engine, but can’t seem to get the pan off. I’ve removed 28 bolts and it won’t budge: 10 on each side, 4 in the back and 4 in the front (although I didn't have enough clearance to completely remove two of them, but they don't feel attached). I didn’t want to try to pry anything for fear of ruining the seal. Can someone tell me the secret to removing the pan?

- Also, does anyone know how to remove the splashpan on the passenger side of the engine? My current pan was bent somehow and made removing the bolts from the pan a chore. I'd like to pull it out to re-shape it. Do I honestly have to remove the Starter (?) to get it out

- I drained about two old gallons of gas from the tank. Some exterior rust on the tank, but didn’t notice many particulates in the gas itself. When I shake the tank, I can still hear something rolling around in there, so I’ll probably try to flush it with water. Do you recommend doing any kind of gas tank sealer?

- My vacuum pump has been disconnected and replaced by a fuel pump and pressure regulator (replaced by the prior owner 30-40 years ago). I’m going to stick with the pump for now to get it started, but would love to return to the vacuum pump at some point. I did blow out the gas lines - no visible fuel came out, but you could smell fuel in the engine compartment.

- Tomorrow I’ll remove the spark plugs and give them a good look over. However, can someone tell me what gap size I should be adjusting to?

- Oh, I picked up a 6 volt battery on everyone’s recommendation. Now I’ve also got to find a 6-volt tender and some replacement cables…

Jody

[Mark Shaw]

Jody,

Don't use 12 volt cables in your 6 volt car. Make sure you get the heavier 6 volt positive cable and a good heavy ground strap.

As far a removing the pan, I remember on my son's 29 Buick we had to remove an extra retainer plate at the rear of the pan before it could be removed.

The vacuum tank is no big deal. Parts and/or replacement tanks are available.

[Alfa]

Following on from what Mark says, you must use large diameter cables at 6 volts because the current flow will be higher. Also, it is worth disconnecting all the terminals to the starter and ignition (including the earth connections) and brightening them up with abrasive paper. They connections can become a bit "dry" and leave you with a high resistance, which is more of a problem at 6 volt. I like to smear the connections with copper grease (petroleum jelly will do) to prevent on surface corrosion on all terminals before oputting them together.

For the spark plugs, it would pay you to find a service manual for the car, but in the absence of better knowledge 0.025" (25 thou) plug gap should work fine. And around 0.015" gap at the contact breaker points. Thise are my rules of thumb when I have no data.

You will need to remove the petrol tank to flush it effectively. If it has surface rust inside, a proprietory gas tank sealer would prevent future problems. If not, I wouldn`t bother.

Hope this helps

Adam..

Edited August 9, 2010 by Alfa (see edit history)