Joe Block Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 (edited) I pickup some new running board rubber both sides, all the piece to do two running boards. It to short for my Limo, it for 138 inch sedan and formal or shorter wjeeel based 120 and 110.I just want to stay $$$ whole and get my money back $800, I looked for 15 years for this and could not pass up a chance to get it. I was disappointed to find out it 10 inch short for the 148 inch limo This is product is not any longer. Joe BlockPackards42@yahoo.com Edited October 23, 2009 by packards42 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bkazmer Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 I think the 138' and 127' cars have different running boards (the door sills do not interchange). If you measure the main extrusion I can check which it's for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Block Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 You can cut the running board rubber shorter, for a 127 inch based car, but unfortunately you can lengthen. I was told it fit all model when i bought it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozstatman Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) Are all 41/42 running boards "generally" the same shape varying only in length? I'd be interested to know how they'd be cut shorter, as the "taper" from front to rear would probably be different, as well as having a "join-line" somewhere along it's length most likely near the front or rear of the boards. Reason I ask is, I have a 41 120 Coupe and the rubber on the boards was shot. So currently having the boards sprayed, again, with Rhino pickup bed liner because replacement rubber is not now available and the compound curves at the "corners" are a problem not easily solved. And on another Forum, West Peterson gave this advice"MalMy brother did the Rhino Linings on his '42 Formal. Yes, when Rhino is done, it will have a texture (orange peel?). You need to sand it smooth. This will also eliminate the high gloss. Start with a heavy grit, say 100 or so, and graduate to a much finer grit and stop when you're happy.For anyone wanting to use Rhino (and I highly recommend it), make sure the operator sprays with a much finer setting than what is used for pickup beds. Also, it should be done in several coats, not one thick heavy coat.For more detail in the exact process, contact David Mitchell (forum member). His turned out absolutely perfect. I've never seen better. We (my brother) skipped a few parts of the process and they didn't turn out quite as nice, but much nicer than the reproduction rubber that you lay on with glue and patches at the corners."I'm having the boards Rhino sprayed again because my boards are for a 120 and they don't use all the holes along the length of the board. The excess holes are used in the 160/180's for the trim pieces they use. The first spraying left most of the holes still apparent so the excess holes will be filled and the boards Rhino sprayed again. The finish on my boards after Rhino sprayed was slightly ripplely, not too sure if this is the orange peel referred to, and is very glossy as mentioned by West. It will be sanded back after the holes are filled and the boards are re-Rhinoed. Edited October 24, 2009 by Ozstatman ADDED 2 More Pics (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Block Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) MalThere are three pieces per side the main board< the upright pieces along the car body and a corner. Yes there a small seal at 90 degree angles, 1 inch square where the corner pieces are glued down> That why the pieces can be cut to length. Edited October 25, 2009 by packards42 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozstatman Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 G'day Joe,Thanks for the insights into the rubbers. Who's Mel? Call me Mal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bkazmer Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 The rubber ones were sold by Steele ( I have an uninstalled set too). Joe, I'll see if the standard set is long enough to have trimmings - if so then you can have a splice piece to lengthen yours. I've seen Dave's spray and sand PU job also, and it does look really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Mitchell Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 My spray on boards have been done for 11 years now and still look great. I saw a Steele set on a show car recently and they were the worst thing on the car - even with a really good job, all the seams show, and of course they weren't there when original. West's brother and a lot of others did theirs after seeing mine (and West mentioning it in his magazine article). It does take a lot of work to make them nice though, but it is worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozstatman Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Dave, Can you give me an idea of what you did to achieve the finish attained on the sprayed boards? Maybe a pic as well? Thanks in anticipation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Mitchell Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Hi Mal,Send me an email at packard12s@hotmail.com and I will send you some photos. If you still have holes in the boards, mask them before you have they recoated so you will end up with a uniform surface. Ask the people putting on the coating to thin it down to let it flow out more and be less rippley - but you still want a fairly thick coating. I would sand it down smooth before you take it to have it recoated. I found out the hard way that if you sand through one layer, you will be able to see the edge of that layer and you will have to start over. We started with coarse paper - like 80 grit on the really rippled surface and worked our way down to 400 I think, maybe 600. I treat it with a rubber preservative a couple times a year and it has stayed nice. You need to have it thick enough so that it will flex a bit like the rubber did. The nice thing is that you can use it as a running board and not worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozstatman Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Dave,Thanks for the photo offer, and the info about the sanding process. Email just sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Block Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 As to the seams, I was in one shop that filled the seams then froze them and sand them smooth, and the seam did show at all. the only seams that show are the corner were the insert goes in on the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bkazmer Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 interesting idea - do you know what the seam filler was? I imagine a CO2 extinguisher would be a good chiller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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