Transmission removal

[Guest nasmith]

Hi guys, I'm looking for advice on removing the transmission in my '40 LZ. I have seen some of the earlier threads on this subject but need to find out about a couple of additional details. Is it necessary to use a spreader for the spring if it is going to remain shackled to the axle? And second, approximately how far does the rear end need to move back to be disconnected from the transmission? As always, your expert advice will be appreciated.

Norm

[peecher]

Norm, it's been a few years since I did this but if you remove the rear wheels you won't have to jack the car up so high to slide the rear axle assembly back with the spring still attached to the shackles. You still have to take the brake lines, brake hose and shocks loose of course. You are going to need about 8"-10" in order for the main drive to clear and swing past the the clutch when removing the transmission.

[Guest nasmith]

Dee, thanks for the info. That's how I planned to do it - with the wheels off there should be plenty of room. Apparently my low - reverse gear has a broken tooth as I hear tick - tick sound whenever I am in low or reverse.

Thanks again for your help.

Norm

[peecher]

Hopefully the cluster is ok. The low/reverse gear is the same as a Ford so that should be readily available. I see where Joblot ( NY) has new 26 tooth clusters if you should need one.

[Guest nasmith]

Dee, thanks for the info. I think C&G in Escondido also has them. I guess I'll need to put new seals and gaskets in the transmission and U-joint housing as well. Are these the same as Ford also?

[okdave]

i just removed and installed the tranny in my 41 sedan. the spring will rise up when you remove the shackle bolts. i just took a piece of round steel pipe, heated up and flatten out ends for spreader. the force of the spring actually slightly bent the spreader pipe. i got the length by placing two big boys in back seat to compress spring cut pipe to correct length and slipped it in bottom of spring at each side. there is a lot of pent up energy in that spring so be careful. david

i also would recommend that you replace the frame insulators and transmission mount while you have this apart. the rubber in those parts is likely disintegrated.

[Phil Knapp]

Here's the spring spreader I used when I installed the Columbia axle in my '39 Zephyr. It's a couple of pieces of black iron pipe with the ends flattened and a '39 Ford friction jack between. It worked really well, no problems!

Edited September 14, 2009 by Phil Knapp (see edit history)

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

NO FRAME INSULATORS ON 40

[Guest nasmith]

Thanks for all the info guys. Now I've got to get the parts & gaskets together and get the garage ready for the work. It will probably be a few weeks before I do the work - I'll let you know the outcome when it's done. Please stand by - I'm sure I will have more questions.

Norm

[Guest nasmith]

Last September I asked for, and got, advice on removing the transmission for repair. Thanks to those who answered with suggestions - all were appreciated. I have finally undertaken the job and have several comments to add to the suggestions given.

1. It was not possible to lower the rear end far enough to clear the crossmember by removing the four spring bolts and then to move it back due to the restriction of the tunnel in the x member of the frame. It was necessary to spread the spring and undo the shackles to get enough clearance.

2. The rear end only needs to go back about 6 inches to gain enough room to clear the u-joint and back the transmission out.

3. After undoing all the shift linkages and other appurtenances, I realized the rear transmission mount needed to be completely removed to get enough wiggle room for ease of transmission removal.

4. Rather than break my back lifting the transmission, I was able to use my engine hoist to reach in and do the heavy lifting.

With the transmission on the bench, I discovered the low/reverse slider had one tooth cleanly missing and I found the tooth, intact, on the bottom of the case. There was no other damage, or even wear, apparent. I replaced the gear, seals and cluster washers and reassembled.

Regarding the rear transmission mount and the frame isolater, my rear mount was installed recently and inspection of the isolater shows it to be in good condition.

The transmission is back in and now I am attempting to reinstall the rearend. I have aligned the u-joint with the drive shaft and have pushed the rearend forward but cannot seem to get the drive shaft to slip into the u-joint spline. Is there any magic to this, or do I just keep re-aligning and trying over and over again until I finally hit the mark?

Thanks for your help,

Norm

[peecher]

Norm, be sure the transmission is in neutral as the drive shaft will turn if the brake drums or wheels are turning pushing the rear axle in.

[Guest B1rdman]

just done my second removal, i found that two people can

align u joint and start it back in place much better than one.

gene

[Guest nasmith]

Dee & Gene, thanks for your suggestions. Having the transmission in neutral is a good idea under any circumstances, however, I had the differential on a wheeled "trolley" jack, so could push it and out fairly easily without the wheels turning. As you noted Gene, a second person would have really helped, but no one was available this morning. So, I managed to put it together with the differential on the jack, pushed forward to contact the u-joint spline. I then attached a tiedown strap with a comealong ratchet from the transmission to the jack and with a little pressure and a minor amount of wiggling, the driveshaft slipped into place. It's basically back together with only small details left.

Thanks gentlemen for your ideas and encouragement,

Norm