denwbaseball Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 So here is the car that I'm looking to purchase for around $500 its a 1949 Plymouth Coupe. There is pretty much no rust and the interior is in ok shape. I'm not sure what engine this is and if it will turn over. It was put in a barn and covered about 20 years ago and has just sat ever since. Is there any chance that this motor can be salvaged if it was fine before it was put away? What kind of engine is in it? What kind of engine swap would be possible? Any input I'd love...this will be my first major project like this....very excited to get started! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Timothy D Bowers Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 That looks like a great find for $500!The flathead six in the Plymouth is a very durable engine.Once you have it home, I would suggest pulling the spark plugs and liberally pouring a product such as Marvel Mystery Oil through the plug holes and allow the engine to soak for a few days. While you're doing that, you can be cleaning the car up, cleaning or replacing the spark plugs, inspecting the wiring, checking the other fluids such as the radiator, cleaning or replacing the battery cables, and generally inpsecting the car. The interior does look reasonably nice, and you can have fun cleaning and exploring during those first few days, too.After a few days, try turning the engine over by hand with the spark plugs out. You might find a socket that fits on the nut on the crank pulley, or you may even be able to turn the engine over by hand by grabbing the fan and putting tension on the fan belt so that it doesn't slip when you turn the fan. The engine should turn reasonably easy if it isn't stuck when the plugs are out. Turn if a few revolutions to allow the MMO to wet the cylinder walls as the pistons go up and down.To try starting the car, I would bypass the car's gas tank by removing the supply line that comes to the fuel pump and drop a temporary supply hose into a gas can that has fresh gasoline in it.Drain the old oil, change the filter, and add fresh non-detergent oil. Make sure the car is in neutral, of course!Put in a new battery (6 volt positive ground); it would be a good idea to spin the engine with the ignition disabled to pressurize the oil system before trying to fire the engine. Pour about a tablespoon of fresh gas into the carb, and give 'er a crank and see what happens. You may need to clean the points at a minimum. The coil and condenser may need replaced, too.Sometimes, they'll start right up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 That club coupe is awesome for $500.00!! Why do an engine swap? That engine should have the designation of P-17 or P-18 on the raised pad on the driver' side of the block. The P-17 is 111" wheelbase. The P-18 is 118.5 wheelbase. You could not even get a set of bumpers for $500.00 so I would say that it would be a heck of a buy. I see someone has added some round parking lights or turn signals to the front above the original parking lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 yea I'm hoping not to have to swap....I'm just saying if I cann't get this one running and cann't find one like it. So if the engine wasn't junk when it was stored do you think that i'll be able to get it going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 I imagine that you will not have any problems starting the engine. Given the correct process of making certain that things are well lubricated (especially the cam with good cam lube), it should start right up. I have seen cars sit for 20+ years that never had trouble starting and running well after proper preparation. These engines are like slant sixes....bullet proof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 good to hear!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 P18******* never was a P17 stamped engine though the model P17 exist..for 500.00 you could well afford to trash it out and not be out much...go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 could anyone tell me the width of this car? I'm trying to set up a trailer.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 As far as the battery goes does it just have to be a 6V and then the car itself is a postive ground? Also I'm looking for some not so good tires to put on in temperarly to just get it home...will anything fit or does it have to be a speacial rim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern..the rims must have minimum one hole between the lugs so to mount on the locating pin. Early wheels all had these and some up to 1970's only smaller as they were for attaching the trim cap. will have to ream it larger...the 49 is not wide at all, in fact that year is the more narrow width than any other pertaining to wheel track 55 inch front....56 inch rearoverall width of the body is 71 1/16 with length being 185 5/16 including bumper and guards for the P17 P18 is slighly longer at 191 1/2be careful of where you tie this car down..stay away from the sway bar..I see more folks mistake this as a good place to attach a tie point. If you point to point (front to rear chains with binder my preferred method) do consider a safety chain looped to the trailer framework as a precaution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Thanks for the info. The owner of the car said that I could go and try to get it started before I buy it and if I do get it going he won't charge me anymore money!!! As far as the towing, I only have about a 10mile tow and it'll be on country roads so i can go super slow...but I'll be sure to tie it correctly. I'm not real formilar with bolt patterns and stuff, is that a common rim where I'll be able to find 4 at a junk yard or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 ok so i just got back....I had some MMO in the cylinders and sure enough it turned over great, but didn't fire....didn't seem like it was getting spark or gas. I'M VERY EXCITED THOUGH!! and the headlights work...blinkers...dome light...air vent inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Den if the car was running when put away it will run now. I could have that baby eating out of my hand in a few hours.They are a very simple, rugged, trouble free motor. It should be a simple matter to get it running for an old time mechanic.If it is shot or worn out all is not lost. Not only is it simple and easy to fix, all parts are available. You could rebuild that motor like brand new, easier and cheaper than you could put in a worn out junkyard motor.Some excellent advice from Timothy. Be carefull to disconnect the gas line before you try to start it, and use a motorboat gas tank. Old stinky gas will freeze up your motor.The wheel bolt pattern is the same as used on all Chrysler products (except Imperial) up until the front drives came along. Ford, Toyota pickup and many other vehicles used the same bolt pattern, 5 bolts on 4 1/2" centers. Those skinny disposable spares are excellent for moving an old car around. Many junkyards give them away for free, and they are like new since they never left the trunk in most cases.There is one problem, there is a locating pin on the wheel hubs. The wheels have a corresponding set of holes. If you use some other wheel you will have to take a drill and drill a 3/16 hole for the pin.I gather from your questions that you do not have a lot of experience fixing old cars. So don't be shy about asking advice. If you can't find and old time mechanic we will try to help out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Yea your right Rusty I have no experiance with old cars. I've re-did two old boats but thats it. I'm no mechanic but know more that most. I've always wanted to fix up an old car and I guess everyone has to start some where...so here I am. I really appriciate everyone's help! And I'll keep this thread up posting pictures and updates. I think now that I know that the engine isn't junk I'm going to try to get it home before I do anything else on it. So know all I need to do is come up with a game plan on how to get it home and get things straight with the owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 One thing to not overlook.....there are right and left hand threaded lugs on these MOPARs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Price Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Yep, drivers side is left-hand threads.Old cars are cool. Old Mopars rule! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Actually the newer front wheel drive cars to inlude the LHS platforms and later mini vans all have the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, they are expressed in metric size today, it is the positive offset that is the killer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 When I go to start an old motor like that I usually check the oil, clean the white fur off the points, check the plugs are firing, squirt a little oil down the cylinders,hook up a motorboat tank to the fuel pump or carb and generally check for broken wires broken parts and so forth. But I assume it was running when put away and I DO NOT make any changes without a good reason.Because, if you start messing with things, pretty soon if it doesn't start you have no idea why. Then you have to go right back to basics and redo EVERYTHING. I find it much better to see that I have gas and spark and give it a whirl, then see what it needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denwbaseball Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 Does anyone know where I can find a firing order diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob Call Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 The firing order on your 6 cylinder, and most inline 6s, is 1 5 3 6 2 4. On the distributor cap #1 is at 7 o'clock, #5 at 9 o'clock, #3 at 11 o'clock, #6 at 1 o'clock, #2 at 3 o'clock, and #4 at 5 o'clock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Plymouthy Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 if you are lucky #1 will reflect the 7:00 position..so many of these cars have had the oil pumps dropped and not correctly oriented and the distributor indexed to reflect the incorrect position of the pump gear in relation to the cam..SO as stated above..one can assume it was correct when parked..could be in looking at this you may determine by appearance it is wrong but in reality changing it will give you the error.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elmo39 Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 the first thing i would do is determine if it had spark, the easy way is turn the engine over till the points gap is closed , and with the ign on flick the points with either your finger nail or a fine screwdriver , if it has spark you will see a small spark at the points , if its there and still doesnt fire the next thing is check if the fuel is getting to the carb, again tis is fairly simple , disconect the coil first so there is no accidents , undo the fuel pipe from the carb and again turn the engine over , if the fuel pump is okay and fuel is in the tank , and the line is not blocked it will come out of the pipe . no spark at the points check the coil or condensor , no fuel coming out of the fuel line , first check that the fuel line is not blocked , by disconnecting the line from the inlet side of the fuel pump and blowing back to the tank , if its not blocked i would have the fuel pump checked out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elmo39 Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I should have mentioned it is also reasonably simple to check the pump , remove it from the engine , put a temporary pipe on the inlet side , put that into a small tin of gas , and pump it by hand , if its good it should send a good stream of fuel a distance of at least a foot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now