'21 wont start-HELP!

[MarkV]

Well, my '21 wont start, I let it set for a month and had the battery charged turned the key and pressed the starter button it had a slow crank and then it stopped and now nothing happens and the battery is charged, there is gas, the headlights work, but, no noise or movement from the starter before this it would just start right up no problem and the starter went fast and it would just fire right up no matter how long it sat......

[ReattaBoy]

does this vehicle have a solenoid? check it there. and just curious what is a 21? ohh nevermind i see 1921 chevy lol

[Steve Braverman]

No solenoid on a Chevy 490.

Did you check all your cables and connections?

[Guest rbl2]

I agree with Steve. My first thought was battery connections. Then the battery. Then other connections. These old cars were touchy about connections being clean and tight.

[rsb]

Failing all that was said above, I say rock the car in high gear to make sure the starter isn't locked. Following that, clean the commutator on the starter with a shot of spray solvent. My 28 did the same thing and the cause was over-oiling the rear starter bearing got into the commutator and gummed up the brushes. There was no prior warning. It just wouldn't start one fine day.

Best Regards,

Ron

[Guest simplyconnected]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rsb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My 28 did the same thing and the cause was over-oiling the rear starter bearing got into the commutator and gummed up the brushes.</div></div>

Standard practice is to run the starter (and/or generator) until the brushes fail. Does this make sense? Brushes are CHEAP, but commutators and stators are very expensive. With light maintenance, they should last a good long time.

Starter inspection should be done at least every 25,000 miles. Pull the starter back-plate off and look. If the brushes are worn or the springs are weak, it's time to order new ones. This goes for generators, too. At the same time, cleaning and bearing lube can easily be done. We just covered all the moving parts except for the bendix gear in the nose.

Starter and generator rebuilders are all over the country. I have found, those guys take a real interest in classic parts. They have your parts on the shelf most of the time, and they usually don't charge very much (because they realize you aren't a mechanic and you aren't selling their parts for a profit.

There isn't much to a starter. I encourage everyone to at least look at them. Pull the brushes up and down, and make sure they're long enough, and they float freely in the holders when you pull back the tension spring. Please realize, all your battery power (~800-amps) transfers through those brushes and into the commutator segments.

The rest of the circuit depends on clean-tight connections, and correctly-sized copper cables.