rsb

Sounds like you have an original coil. The "dial" or "knob" as you describe it is a ballast resistor for the coil. It keeps the coil from overheating when ignition is on for long periods without the engine running. The resistor should have a circular porcelain core with spiraled wire running around its circumference. You can test it with a continuity tester / ohm meter. If it has continuity, it's good. If not, that would explain why your coil is not firing. Perhaps the internal wire has rusted away.

Sweet little coupe although I think it's a 1926 based on the headlights and the radiator shell. Have you checked the starter in the car? There may not be enough amperage to fully drive it with just jumper cables.

0.22 micro Farads would be inline with modern style condensers. Perhaps there is a missing decimal point on the reference to "22 micro Farads"?

What about a phenolic circuit board? The type hobbyists start with for building electronic projects. It's usually copper clad on one or both sides. You could etch the copper off except maybe around the rivets and have a durable non-conductive surface.

The original coil had a resistor on top by design. If you replace the original coil with a newer 6V coil and condenser, you do not need a ballast resistor.

In addition to what has been mentioned, I would try substituting a coil from a newer vehicle such as a 1954 Chevrolet with a condenser on the negative lead and no resistor. The original coils are known to be unreliable. They have the condenser built-in and unless it has been taken apart, as in having the tar melted out and condenser replaced with a modern equivalent, it's definitely bad by now. Another question, do you have the carburetor intake hooked up to the pre-heater on the exhaust? These motors run best with warm air.

I had the Uvira process done on one of my cars as well. Reflectivity is comparable to silver and the end result does not tarnish, although I still wouldn't go touching it or rubbing it with a rag or anything like that.

The trick is never touch the silver on the reflectors. Any contaminates such as the natural oils in your skin will tarnish the silver. Do not use rubber-impregnated gaskets. The oils in the rubber will tarnish the silver too. Put on white museum gloves when handling them for installation. I have never used any products or done any cleaning on mine and they look as good as the day they were installed 18 years ago.

I have had the Peterson regulator in both my cars for years with no problems. I kept the original cut-out and 3rd brush for max current regulation. I don't like to fully tax my generator in the event the battery goes flat. I was surprised by observing the ammeter just how fast a good battery recovers after starting the engine. By the time I reach the end of my street, the ammeter is already approaching zero.

I think gravity is your answer. The lower the carburetor, the easier it is to deliver fuel to it. Prior to mechanical fuel pumps and vacuum tanks, carburetors were gravity fed.

You could also get an optima and disguise it in an original-looking battery case. See this thread: I also see them on evilBay from time to time. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Style-Battery-Case-Hides-6-volt-Optima-Battery-Classic-Vintage-Cars-/361724753348?hash=item543879b5c4:g:tRwAAOSwqu9UzxkP&item=361724753348&vxp=mtr

I don't know if it's an old wives tale but I put Premium (91 octane) fuel in my older cars that I don't drive as often. The thought is the higher octane fuel is less volatile and lasts longer.

A quick google turned up this: http://www.retroair.com/prewarcarac192050s.html

Those Optimas are like 800 CCA which is higher than most wet cell batteries. If you need two of them to crank your car, then you have other issues. Possibly bad starter, bad ground, or cable size too small. The power density of two 6-volt Optimas in parallel is probably too much for your poor little generator to keep up.

Ask these folks. http://deltacam.com/ They have been very helpful to me in the past. Regards