6 x 9 speakers installed in DOORS!

[Guest EDBS0]

Give the winner of Carleton University's Engineering Design Class a big enough hammer, time and a Dermel and anything can be installed anywhere .<P><B>Installed: </B> in the doors of my 89 Reatta. I used Infinity Kappa Series 6 x 9 693.51 with 1" EMIT? super tweeter and their oversized, Plus One C.M.M.D. woofer cone features a lightweight aluminum cone bonded to layers of ceramic. As you can see with their unusual baskets these are <B>huge</B> speakers.<P><B>End result:</B> visually you can't tell there is anything other than stock speakers behind the stock grills <P><B>Acoustically: </B>These speakers require a break-in-period. How long I don't know. Lots of base and treble but so far a poor undefined soundstage. Getting better after an hour of playing but a very long way to go. Could be that they didn't pay a lot of attention to the phase in the X-over? Time will tell whether they "play your music with astonishing detail and clarity". <P>More to follow . . .<p>[ 08-20-2002: Message edited by: Easily Distracted ]

[Barney Eaton]

Hopefully, before installing those monsters, you ran a computer simulation on the door pivots to determine the reduced life expectancy. The extra power may also shorten the life of the grill cloth. But for the extra noise, you must sacrifice.

[Guest EDBS0]

Actually, took the grill cloth off. Washed and dried and reinstalled but not until I enlarged the cut out portion by doubling the length of the opening that was cut out . Then painted black plastic burgundy. Reinstalled grills and all looks stock.<P>Interested in musical speakers not high volume. These speakers will play too loud for me. Please let musicality and soundstage improve with break-in.<P>So far the 6 x 9 Phoenix Golds in the Riv's doors blow these away! They have a phenonimal sound stage thay I would only expect in a home system. Perhaps I just got lucky there?

[Guest]

Easily Distracted: Did you run a computer model of the vibration induced fatigue stress on <B>the freakin' door hinges???!!!</B> These monsters are gonna be a 4.8 on the ricther scale... <BR>but I bet they'll <B>sound GREAT!</B> <BR>Can you give us a step by step <B> with photos???!!!</B><p>[ 08-18-2002: Message edited by: burkieboy ]

[Guest EDBS0]

How to do it; First you remove the door panel by removing the two bolts at each end of the pull strap. Next remove the screw holding the cover behind the door release handle. The only thing holding the door in place are the plastic push fasteners (there is probably a technical name for these parts?). Start at the bottom and carefully pull the door panel off. Screwdriver, pry bar or trim removal tool may be of benefit. With the door panel completely detached next detach the power seat switch and the red and white light.<BR> <BR>The infinity guys did not include a template so I had to trace the outside dimensions of the speaker in a piece of paper then cut out the inside leaving 1/4 inch clearance to mount the speaker.<BR> <BR>Remove the old base speaker and it's housing and cut the wires. In my case the foam surround was completely toast. Nothing left. Leave the top tweeter in place to because you can see it behind the grill. You might want to cut the wires just under the tweeter and remove the wire and crossover (the brown sticky glob). <BR> <BR>Now the real fun begins. Tape the template to the old speaker location. I used the existing end closest to the door hinges and cut out the extra from the other side. This way you only cut one side. Wearing ear defenders I used a dremel with a cut off blade. Well actually I used some 20 to 30 cut off blades. Those little suckers wear out or should I say wear down to nothing really fast. Anyone know of a more durable cut off blade? I have diamond cut offs but they cut too wide a cut and are really slow. Next put the window all the way down. You will see a bushing? knob? thing through the glass. I cut 3/8 inch off of this piece. Don't know what it does but everything works perfectly with the piece gone and there was no sign of anything touching it at any point along its length.<BR> <BR>Test fit the speaker and try the window all the way up and down several times. A hammer works for fine technical adjustments. I used two drywall screws to hold the speaker in place. It will not fit all the way in there will be 3/8 to 1/2 inch gap. Remove the speaker and solder the speaker wires to the old speaker wires. I used electronic silver solder. plug the other push connectors to the speaker. There is a crossover that comes with this speaker. I used a small piece of foam as a cushion and taped it to the bottom of the door using the official Red Green Duct Tape. Secure the rest of the wire with duct tape so it will not catch on anything. Screw the speaker in. Next and this is where the largest tube of construction adhesive comes in handy. Glue the speaker in place. Test the window operation several more times.<BR> <BR>Next remove the speaker grill from the door panel. Remove the cloth from the grill. Wash in cold water in sink using dish soap or any other mild soap. Air dry on towel. The original grill opening is only half as long as the new speaker so you are going to have to open it up with a dermel. This is where the thicker diamond cut off blade works best. I half cut and half melted the new larger opening grids. I sanded the surface smooth and painted it burgundy. I used Plastic PVC solvent cement and paperclips as clamps to reattach the grill cloth.<BR> <BR>Next you are going to have to cut the door panel behind your new cut out for the larger speaker. Bolt the grill cover back in place. It will look factory original, you can't tell it from stock. I then cut a foam rubber gasket and fit it around the speaker between the door frame and the door panel. <BR> <BR>I used a small amount of penetrating oil on the plastic push fasteners and push the door panel back in place. Holding the panel up reinstall the light and power window switch and install the door panel. Take your time and where ever you can, even if it means laying on your back try and eyeball each fastener into its proper fastening hole. Now do the other side. <BR> <BR>Nothing was particularly hard only tedious during the cutting.

[Reatta_Cruzin]

Easy D, Great choice on the Infinity Kappa series. I recently installed 5.25" Kappa's in the doors. They do require a break in period. The tweeter will get louder and louder producing a nice clear sound. I don't think you'll have to worry about your door hinges. The last stereo competition I competed was about three weeks ago. My speakers managed to make an noise level of 135.4 dB. About 9.4 on the richter scale! and my hinges are still in great working order. The only bad thing is that my liscenes plate vibrates raddles really bad. Tryin to figure out a way to quiet the thing down as we speak. Any way, hope you enjoy the Kappa's!<BR>

[Guest]

EZD: Hey <B> thanks </B> man . I've been wanting to do something with the sound in my Reatta and this sounds like just what the doctor ordered.

[TheBlackMoon]

Reatta_Cruzin, the answer to the plate rattling prob's simple, toggle bolts!! <BR>That's what happened to me as soon as I got the Audiobahn Sub in the trunk like I wanted it (for now, anyway). Toggles were the only way to secure the rear plate, as it literally blew off the car when I turned up the bass (Folks, don't ask. You really don't want to know, LOL). <P>Nice 6x9's, Distracted. I couldn't get the highs like I wanted them with the high-enders. Had to go with 55w/rms Jensen Mids and (believe it or not, folks) 50w/rms Pyramid Tweets in the doors running highs only off a 110w/rms/ch amp to get the effect I wanted; finally staged through a spectrum analyzer/eq for clarity. I'm a Jazz nut and though she'll easily embarrass many of the SUV's 'round here, it was done more for quality. Shucks, never turned it all the way up and wouldn't want to. Will sooner or later post pics, but have to fix some things (cosmetically) first.<P>I sincerely hope you have better luck with the highs than I did. Still not overly impressed, but unwilling to pay over $1k for the components I'd need. Keep us informed, okay?<p>[ 08-19-2002: Message edited by: Consultants_1 ]

[Guest EDBS0]

Consultants_1; I have the frequency response that is most pleasing to me by using the preset tone button marked "JAZZ" on the Riv Radio? I would like to know what frequencies they boost and reduce. <P>Continuing to burn-in the Infinity Kappas. With hindsight I should have put over 100 hours burn-in on the bench.

[Reatta_Cruzin]

Guys- For a true sound test for your system, try playing a Classical music CD. For some reason that stuff sound great. That type of music uses all different freq., and will make your mids and tweets come alive. A good speaker to check into is the MB Quart. I accedently blew the set I had in my doors and my wife wouldnt let me replace them so thats why I bought the Kappas. Still sound good though.

[TheBlackMoon]

That's what I run in my car normally; classical and jazz most of the time. The highs will cause serious headaches if turned up much (was foolish enough to do so only once before while in the car). I've since turned down the amp that controls the interior speakers' gain, while installing/uninstalling diferent components and speakers, but will reset the freq and gain curves before I leave on Friday for vacation. It really helps when on the road. Will prob wait to complete some cosmetic work before having professionally freq'd out and getting the actual response ratios on paper, though. Too many projects going on now to deal with it and it won't be important til I put her in the local classic car shows.

[Guest EDBS0]

I would adjust the frequency response with you sitting in the car. You are a big sound tuning device. <P>At home I am fortunate enough to have the sound that I want with all controls set flat. That is not going to happen in the Reatta. Suspect slight increase in base and larger boost in treble. <P> I am extremely demanding and critical of my music.. I like all types and am interested in the quality of the musical sound. When I listen at home and in the Riviera I can not hear the speakers. This may sound odd but there is just music in a perfect sound stage in front of me. What I am trying to say is if you close your eyes you can picture where each instrument is and where each singer is. With your eyes open and looking directly at the speakers I can not hear any sound coming from them. Obviously it is. I am thinking that this is not going to happen in the Reatta. . As the wires and speakers break in it just might but presently it has a long way to go. In a poor system I can hear unintegrated sound coming from each speaker. <P><BR>Presently traveling with two sets of keys. If I am going to be away from the car for less than an hour or so I will lock the second set in the car on accessory position and the volume cranked on a rock station. Similarly upon return home leave cranked in driveway for an hour. As the wires and speakers break in it just might develop a sound stage but presently it still has a long way to go. Some improvements are detectable. Big problem, left leg soaks up a lot of the treble from left speaker.<P><B>Pet peeve I think that rear speakers have no place in a 2 seater! Others?<BR> </B><p>[ 08-20-2002: Message edited by: Easily Distracted ]

[TheBlackMoon]

Hey Robert,<BR>I checked intently. Staging is possible, though I seriously wonder if a head unit and speakers alone can give it to you. I needed to use the spectrum analyzer/equalizer (a complicated eq, basically) to do it. No matter how I played with the radio settings my reatta, my brother's Chevy Berlinta or mom's van, it just wasn't happening. The eq helps considerably clean up the distortion. May be an option.

[Guest]

Nice speakers! but have you noticed any bulging out on the door skins?

[Reatta_Cruzin]

If you do no have an amplifier(s) with built in equalizers, I would strongly recomend and external one. To really clean up your music, get something a little better than your typical 5 or 7 band eq. You should at least get a 10-band. You will be sitting in your car tuning and and adjusting for a while to get it exactly the way you like it, but the end result is worth it. If you listen to diferent types of music, then a guy will be adjusting the eq often, like me. Some good ones to check into would be : Audio Control, Alpine, Pheonix Gold, and Kenwood. I've learned in car audio that you get what you pay for. The best for the money would have to be the Alpine unit. I hope this helps.