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High oil pressure


Guest Dodge Deluxe

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Guest Dodge Deluxe

I'm still plugging away on the Dodge trying to get it to operating drivable condition, I am now confronted with the same problem I ran into last year when I bought the car, the oil pressure is so high it fully pegs the gauge and actually bends the inside of the gauge so that it stays fully pegged and does not return when the engine is shut off. What are some things that would cause high oil pressure. I installed another gauge and it did the same thing to that one too. It is reading over 80psi and tops out the gauge. The oil filter canister does not appear to be getting any flow of oil to it. The oil pump must be working, as it is pumping oil to the gauge. Clogged oil passages maybe? Clogged lines? I tried taking a look at the pressure relief valve, the spring would come out, but I could not get the plunger out. So I am stuck and troubled on this one....???

Dan

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Guest Dodge Deluxe

I think that makes sense Rusty, as the car sat for almost 20 years. The oil lines running to and from the filter canister are clear, so I am inclined to think that the plunger is the problem as well. The problem now is trying to figure out how to get it out to clean it up?

Dan

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Dan

I had the same problem with my 1960 Buick 215 V8. Only difference was my oil filter did get oil and would in a matter of seconds expand and pop like a balloon and dump 4 quarts of oil on the ground. Ah memories. Down to business, to remove your pressure relief piston, liberally soak the area where the spring goes with penetrating oil for several days or a week. Then using a very small or tiny hammer lightly tap the back of the piston. You are not trying to move the piston just lightly jar the rust holding the piston. If the penetrating oil is not effective coat the area with Oven Easy Off. Baked on oil in the kitchen or in your engine makes no difference to this stuff. It just softens oil slug so it can be cleaned. Let stand and soak for and hour or so. For me I went I the house and ate lunch and then tapped lightly and out came the parts.

MOST IMPORTANT after you use this stuff, fully and liberally flush the oil area where the Easy Off was. Then change your oil.

This stuff will also remove gas varnish from gas tank, vacuum tank or carburetor. Do not run it through a mechanical or electric pump.

Cheers Lunch is over.

Reuel (rule)

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Guest simplyconnected

Rusty_OToole and Mrgearhead are right on the money. That plunger IS the pressure relief valve, and it must move very freely in the bore.

I had a Ford Pinto (2000cc German engine), that poped the oil filter, exactly like Mrgearhead's did.

In the mid '60's, Pontiac used a steel ball with a spring behind it. The 421 racing guys used a slightly smaller ball, "to let bigger pieces through the seat."

I love the EZ-Off idea. It's an acid. Want it to work a little faster? Heat it to where it's just 'too hot to hold'.

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Guest Dodge Deluxe

Well, you guys must be right on, because I was tinkering around with it today and found that the fitting going into the top of the filter was clogged. I unclogged it and now I have oil to the filter, but it overflows the canister just as you described. I'll try getting the plunger to move as you both suggested and see if I can get it free. Thanks all.

Dan

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Guest Dodge Deluxe

Alright, I tried tapping it just a bit with a small hammer and punch, and I felt it move backwards, so it is moving at least somewhat right now. I sprayed in more penetrating oil and I'm letting it soak for a while.

Dan

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Guest Dodge Deluxe

Still no luck as of yet. I think I'm going to try the Easy-Off. Does anyone know if there is access to the plunger from the inside if I drop the oil pan?

Dan

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The plunger is right inside the block. The only access to it is by a hex plug about 3/4" to 1" in diameter. The plug is on the left side of the block directly below the oil filter pipe.

Take the plug out and clean out any sludge or gum that has formed inside. The plunger should come out.

In my manual the plunger appears to be hollow. It might be threaded so you can use a bolt to extract it. On the other hand, it might not. The manual doesn't say one way or the other.

You might try removing the plug and the spring behind it. Clean out the hole with carb cleaner or brake clean spray. Then start the engine and see if the pressure will blow the plunger out.

Have someone hold a rag over the hole ready to catch it.

The plunger's diameter is reduced in the middle, to give it an "I" shape. The smaller end goes toward the motor, the bigger end goes toward the outside. If someone got it in backwards it will not release the pressure, causing the problem you describe.

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Guest Dodge Deluxe

VICTORY! I got the son of a gun out this morning. Used an easy out and it worked quite well. Was in pretty tight. I cleaned it up and made sure it would slide in and out easily and put it back in. Now my oil pressure dropped and it looks good. No oil blowing out the filter canister, I took the instrument panel oil pressure gauge out and bent it back and put it back in, I do not know how accurate it is now, but it reads about 40 lbs or a little less when you give it some gas. FINALLY... I'm just about ready to drive! I just changed her oil, straight 30 weight and a new oil filter element, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, cleaned the carb and the fuel pump sediment bowl, and oiled the air cleaner. I tweaked the idle speed a hair, and now she's running quite nicely. Now I want to change the transmission oil and the rear axle oil, the grease the rear axle bearings.

Thanks for all of your help.

Dan

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Depending what year your Dodge is, the factory probably did not recommend straight 30 weight oil. It might be the bare minimum acceptable oil, for hot weather only. If your car is old enough. But 10W30 is better and is probably what your car has run on all its life.

If someone did go to the trouble of getting the old fashioned thick oil without additives, that would explain the buildup of gum and sludge that is now causing problems.

Chrysler also recommended light oil for the transmission in 40s and 50s models. Do you have the original owner's manual or factory lube recommendations? If not, tell me what year and transmission model you have and I will try to look it up.

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