mrgearhead

Dan I had the same problem with my 1960 Buick 215 V8. Only difference was my oil filter did get oil and would in a matter of seconds expand and pop like a balloon and dump 4 quarts of oil on the ground. Ah memories. Down to business, to remove your pressure relief piston, liberally soak the area where the spring goes with penetrating oil for several days or a week. Then using a very small or tiny hammer lightly tap the back of the piston. You are not trying to move the piston just lightly jar the rust holding the piston. If the penetrating oil is not effective coat the area with Oven Easy Off. Baked on oil in the kitchen or in your engine makes no difference to this stuff. It just softens oil slug so it can be cleaned. Let stand and soak for and hour or so. For me I went I the house and ate lunch and then tapped lightly and out came the parts. MOST IMPORTANT after you use this stuff, fully and liberally flush the oil area where the Easy Off was. Then change your oil. This stuff will also remove gas varnish from gas tank, vacuum tank or carburetor. Do not run it through a mechanical or electric pump. Cheers Lunch is over. Reuel (rule)

FMF Yes there is a mechanics manual for DODGE BROTHERS AND GRAM BROTHER dated 1927 That shows a cut away of the universal transmition. Contact Rodger "Dodger" Hartley rah3601.wa@netzero.net and he can help you locate the correct person near where you live to buy this manual. I have one and have read it through countless times to fix, repair and overhaul parts on my 1923 DB. Reuel (Rule)

Don I went back to the Dodge Club site and it said L G Cooper. It is a 1920 blue touring. When I have attended club meets I have seen this great looking car. I hope this helps. Reuel (rule) Sorry for the miss understanding.

Don I would recommend that you join the Dodge Brothers Car Club. Website Dodgebrothersclub.org Under Photo Gallery there is a Gentle man in the club who owns a 1920 touring with disk wheels. I know he would be glad to answer your question and I personally have found that they will send pictures of anything on the car to help you restore yours. By the way when you find out I would be interested because my 1918 will have disks when I finished. OOPS lunch is over, got to go back to work. Cheers Reuel (rule)

JOE IF YOU ARE RUNNING A VACUME TANK DAVE IS RIGHT. A SIMPLE REPAIR IS TO START THE ENGINE AND THEN KNOCK ON THE VACUME TANK WITH YOUR KNUCKLES LIKE KNOCKING ON A WOOD DOOR. DON'T KNOCK TOO HARD. REMEMBER YOU ARE JUST JIGGLING THE MECHANISUM INSIDE NOT BUSTING IN. OH YA KNOCK TOWARDS THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK. IF NO VACUME TANK THEN THE ENRICHENING VALVE IS SET TO RICH. THIS IS THE LEVER ON THE SIDE OF THE CARB WITH THE SPRING. TURN THE SCREW WITH THE RIDGES ON THE SIDE OUT (UP) THREE OR FOUR CLICKS. OUT OR UP IS LEANING OUT THE FUEL MIXTURE. THRER IS A PROCEEDURE TO TUNE THE CARB IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. HOPE THIS HELPS REUEL (RULE)

Tarren I agree with Rusty. To verify put your car up on ramps or drive it up on to the gutter so the center of the car is over the gutter. Then get under it and with the transmition in neutral grab the yoke on the trans with one hand and the drive line in the other and twist. If you feel any play between your hands its bad. Do the same with the rear u joint by the rear axle. Chances are if the one is bad the other is bad or on its way out. Better safe then sorry. Reuel (rule)

There are two pieces to the rear seal. A bottom felt that goes in the slot on the main cap and let see a top part that is felt or leather. This one you might need to remove the transmition and fly wheel to access the clamp screws. Yes it is a lot of work but take it from me if you don't, well you go through a lot of oil for nothing. Hope this helps. For the correct seals contact Rodger "Dodger" Hartley in technical advisors on the DODGE sight dodgebrothersclub.org. Lunch is over cheers. Reuel (rule)

Art Cleaning your clutch with the Brake cleaner is right on the money. The grease for the throw out bearing located on the floor board is cup grease. The same grease used for the fan on the engine and shackle bolts. The 600w steam cylinder oil for the transmission and rear axle can be purchased in 5 gallon buckets. I drive my 23 all summer and it will sweat out about 1/2 a quart (400 cc) in 7 months of kicks and giggles, any lame excuse to drive fun. Reuel (rule)

Dozer2 For any and all information on restoration parts i.e. head lights, body, fenders, engine parts and so forth go to www.dodgebrothersclub.org and there you will find what you need. I my self started with just what you have. Now it is a touring car. That?s a four door convertible. These old cars are easy to work on and quite easy to drive. More then that, they are surprisingly durable and I find that they are really reliable. I also own and drive a 1923 Dodge Truck. Last Saturday my friend needed to pick up his new (ha ha fresh from a backyard) 1928 dodge victory 6 six cylinder engine. We could not get the trailer into the back yard so I drove the old 23 dodge into the yard and we loaded the engine in the back and we drove home at 25 mph. My old dodge truck isn't fast but it does deliver. No it is not fully restored. In fact it runs so well I am reluctant to take it apart. It just runs so well. Well lunch is over, got to go. Best of luck in restoring this car or truck. Reuel

Marty If memory serves the inner race on the axle bearing is tapered. Press the bearing off towards the wheel away from the splined end. The taper on the axle with the keyway continues through the bearing. The broken crank, yes I have heard of this on 1# piston bearing journal on the radius close to #2 journal. This is where it will fail in fatigue. On your new (old crank in good condition) make sure that the radius on all journals is smooth and no sharp corners. Well lunch is over got to go back to work. Cheers Reuel

ROB ONE OF THE TRICKS I USED IS: 1 LOOSEN NUT UNTIL THE WASHER HAS A LITTLE PLAY. (APROXIMATELY 1/64 TO 1/32 IN AT MOST.) 2 PUT COTTER PIN BACK IN NUT. 3 DRIVE CAR AROUND BLOCK NOT FASTER THEN 25 MPH OR LESS. FOR LEFT WHEEL MAKE ALL RIGHT TURNS. 4 CHECK TO SEE IF WASHER IS TIGHT. 5 IF TIGHT. JACK UP CAR AND REMOVE BRAKE DRUM. 6 IF STILL LOOSE REPEAT STEP 3 AND 4. USUALLY I FIND ONCE OR TWICE AROUND THE BLOCK AND THE DRUM COMES RIGHT OFF. WELL i HOPE THIS HELPS.

Here are some pictures of the wheel. There is a drive slot in the fellow 180 degrees fron the valve stem hole on the wheel. I hope these pictures help. Thanks for the help. Reuel

Here are some pictures of our car. There is a drive slot in the fellow 180 degrees fron the valve stem hole on the wheel. Thanks for the help. Reuel

You are looking for MOBILE 600w cylinder oil. This is blended for gear boxes and is as close as you need to the original. In using this you will noticed smoother shifting when warm and slower and smaller leaks. This may be purchased in five gallon bucket. Me my brother and two friends bought one last summer. I just called and it is readily available. We have been using this type oil for years in 1923, 1926, 1927 Dodges and a 1912 EMF. Zero problems Reuel

My son and I are putting this fine beast together and we are missing but a few parts. Does anyone have one or two 33X4 split rims? You understand spare tire. Also the linkage between the clutch pedal and the clutch. I.e. fork and some sort of I guess brass throw out bearing. If I sound vague it is because I don?t have these missing parts. I do have the cone clutch all be it no leather and it still has the ball bearings in it. However it is missing the inner races. What I would like is a picture of the clutch mechanism taken from under the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh by the way we are on a shoe string budget here. My son does not understand that we may have Champaign tastes but we are in the beer and pretzel budget. This means it does not have to be fresh in the box and I don?t mind repairing. By trade I am a machinist. So I don?t care if it is worn out, that I can deal with. Even the photo or the linkage will help me so I can make one. This car will be a driver. Our plan is to go for a drive this summer. Reuel