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1925 Touring Gas Tank Cleaning


DaveW

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Hi,

I'm 21 and working on restoring my 1925 DB Touring car. I'm on the gas tank and was wondering if anyone has any tips on cleaning the inside. The outside of mine is great and cleaned up very nicely. It was covered in layers of paint which protected it so now I've got it down to the clean metal. Seems very solid from visual inspection. From what I can see inside there's a nice thick brown sludge sitting in the bottom and moves like molasses when I tip the tank. So far I've tried several days of dumping in lacquer thinner and letting it sit overnight which seems to loosen and liquify some of it but it's a very slow process. I'm afraid of using acid, which I understand works well if you seal the metal immediately, because I don't want to burn through anything and I can see there are a few soldered leak patches etc.

Also what size tires should I put on the touring. I have the 20 inch split rim disc wheels. My mechanics book has a few different sizes but I'm wondering if one is more readily available or better than the others.

Any help is appreciated,

Dave

Holden, MA

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  • 2 months later...

Just cleaned mine this week. Used a full quart of Marine-Clean from por15. I bought the Gas tank reliner kit.

with 1 qt of Marine clean and 1 qt of boiling water in it I shook it and rolled it and let it set overnite.. Then I took it to the car wash and blew it with high pressure and it is bright and clean.. Next I will use the etching solution and last I will use the por15 coating for the inside. Just did the tank on my Model A Ford and it really turned out nice.. coating is so tough you can hardly scratch it.. great stuff..

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  • 1 month later...

I just drained the 20+ year old gas out of my '25 DB sedan and took the tank off. I turned it over and poured/shook the junk out of it. Then I took it to the car wash to give it a good cleaning and low and behold I discovered 3-4 holes in the tank, the largest being about half the size of a nickel. Is there a way to repair the tank or am I out of luck? If I'm out of luck, are there repro tanks on the market? My fuel guage is now full of the muck water that was created during the washout too......

Thanks,

Dave

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I just did my tank on a 25DB.. I soldered a couple small holes shut and then I ordered a POR15 tank repair and sealer kit. It uses a solution called Marine Clean to get the last of the crud out.. Then you put in a acid metal prep and etch the inside of the tank..Last you put in a quart of the sealer and slosh it all around and let the excess drain out and the tank is like new..

Everything you need is in the kit.

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Guest outlaw car man

Hi Dave-

When I got my 32 DL6, it had some real nasty stuff in the tank, old gas which really stinks-

Cleaned it out as you did, took it to the local radiator shop, they boiled and repaired a couple holes ( 50 bucks).

Next a kit from Eastwood, followed instructions and it works great so far. POR 15 is a good product too, I've just used their paint in the past on a 34 Ford frame.

It calls for a gallon or so of muratic acid, which you can get at ACE fairly cheap. I really went after it with the acid, then followed the kit.

Make sure like the other fellow said to be careful of the tubes being plugged. I used a stiff wire after the coating , to make sure everything was opened-!!!!!!

Good luck

Sandy

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My gauge is full of rusty water/gas from me rinsing the tank out. Is there a way to remove the qauge and pickup tube easily? I was looking at it and I can't get mine off. I don't know if it's as simple as me using some break free to loosen it up or if it's more complicated than that.

Dave

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Mine are shot from what I can tell. The needle didn't move before I started the cleaning project and were so badly rusted I couldn't make anything out more than just the position of where the needle registered. I'm sorry for being so ignorant about the car (I just got it on Friday) but could you provide me with a link where I can find the tank parts you are referring to?

Thank you,

Dave

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