John McEwan Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Hi I am in Australia and have a fully restored 1923 Dodge Tourer.The ongoing problem I have is that the self starter will not turn over the engine completly. Gets to a compression stroke and thats it. With the plugs out, no problem. I had a starter rebuilt when I finished the restoration in 1992 and it worked fine for a couple of years then slowly went back to the same problem. I resorted to hand cranking till I put it in storage in 1998. I have now got Dodgieitis again want to get the problem solved once and for all. I have lost the contact details of the guy who recoed the starter before. I have tried two spare unrestored starter/generator units and they are all the same. Is this a common thing with these units?ANY help would be greatly appreciated.ThanksJohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Mine acted the same way several year ago. I bought a rebuilt from Roy Brister and it's worked very well ever since. I think he told me they should freewheel at 350 rpms, if slower they aren't any good. His address is here on the forum, do a search, but the shipping will kill you. Do you know anyone coming to the U.S.A., maybe Hershey, that could carry it back for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_RAH Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 John, You mentioned the unit was 'restored' back in '92. Perhaps the rebuilder used all carbon brushes? It is necessary that the two main brushes have some copper contentotherwise the carbon will slough off and cause electrical leakage paths between the commutator segments. Perhaps a new set of proper brushes and cleaning of the commutator will help.Rodger "Dodger" Hartley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 They like using carbonized silica-bronze brushes. It's all about resistance. In fact, your entire starting loop may have too much resistance. It doesn't make sense that ALL your starters are acting poorly.Increase your copper wire diameter, route your cables as short as you comfortably can, and attach the chassis ground cable as close to your starter as possible on the engine. Make SURE every connection is tight. Also, check your starting relay for contact resistance. (It may be getting old.)Depending on length, on a 6-volt system, short runs use a minimum #2 copper wire, for both cables. If you want to get fancy, Welding Wire is very flexible because it has hundreds of strands. I use #1AWG welding wire on my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McEwan Posted June 15, 2008 Author Share Posted June 15, 2008 Thanks menI will give your suggestions a go and let you know what happens. This is a great forum. Wish I found it sooner!John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest backyardmachinc Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Hello Check the tenstion on the brush springs.This is often over look when rebuilting these units.Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McEwan Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 Starter working properly now! Nice thick leads did the trick. I will check the brushes and tension as well. Thanks for your help, guys.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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