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34 Super eight ?


cooter9

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I might have a lead on a 34 Super Eight. Anyway, you guys explained very well the start up procedure for a 1930. Is the 34 the same with the choke, throttle on the dash/steering wheel and turning the gas on under the hood? Still learning.

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No, it's quite different. It's got a conventional type fuel pump and thus no vacuum tank to turn on. It's got a Stromberg Model C automatic choke which, if still operational, is an excellent unit. It's got no dash-mounted spark advance/retard control (automatic spark advance). Hit the gas pedal once to set the choke, and press the starter button.

Other significant differences in driving a 34 over a 30 are 3-speed synchromesh transmission, Bragg-Kliesrath variable power assist brakes, and dash-adjustable shock absorbers. They are vastly nicer driving cars than the 1931 and prior models, and on good pavement they can be nearly as well behaved as later models with independent front suspension. First year for the oil cooler (and the only year that it's mounted on the water jacket), still babbitt bearings but finned connecting rods and full-flow oil filtration.

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My starting procedure for a 34 (most likely more than anyone really needs to know smile.gif :

) Check that:

-No large puddles of oil or gas under car

-No evidence that brake cables, etc. have broken

-Tires look about right for inflation (check with gauge periodically)

-Oil level is good

-Coolant level is good

-Fire extinguisher present

-Brake pedal travel is not to excessive (like to the floor).

-Steering system is solid

-Parking break is on

-Battery switch is on

2) Press down gas petal to the floor (once)

3) Transmission in neutral with clutch depressed to floor

4) Turn ignition key to on

5) Press starter button

6) Increase throttle a little, using the steering column accelerator lever, and let warm up for a bit. Watch instruments to make sure all is working well.

7) Get out of car and look around, and underneath, car to ensure no vital fluids are draining/spraying about.

7) Have a nice drive

Only other point is hit that gas pedal ONCE. Pumping it if things don't go bang right away may flood the engine. It does so for me, anyway.

Very much a modern car as far as starting.

By the way, a 34 Super Eight is a truly great car. Of course, I may be biased...

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Guest BillP

Mine came when new with a startix. I guess one reason these were developed was to encourage more women to drive. It auto-restarts if she stalls on take-off. Made by Bendix, still works.

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Tbirdman--having worked for two museums with LOTS of cars that occasionally needed starting I learned a nice trick (assuming the car has no electric fuel pump).

Get a plastic squeeze bottle with a tapered tip--sort of like the bottles that ketchup is dispensed from in a diner, except these are opaque plastic. cut the tip to a small hole, about 1/16". When starting a car that has sat for a while we take the air cleaner off and put that fine tip right in the bowl vent (the brass tube that is at an angle in the carb throat) and fill the bowl from the squeeze bottle, until it overflows. Then a little shot down the carb, open the choke and give a little shot of gas, not much. The one bowl full of gas should be enough to run the engine for 30-45 seconds, should be enough to prime the system to where it can pull its own from the tank. If after two or three tries it still won't stay running it's fuel pump (rebuild) time!. Some 30s Packards have Strombergs, they have a bowl vent that is on the top of the bowl, a mushroom cap with a screw holding it on top. carefully remove that screw and top, set it aside then you have access to the vent holes in the side of the brass vent that the top fastens to.

We liked this method as it conserved battery and fired the engine right away, saving the battery from cranking the engine until it pulled fuel.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I'll be trying to start my 32 after the long winter project on the engine bay. Besides what Tom wrote, I will add a prayer this Saturday to my starting sequence. smile.gif </div></div>

Well I went to start it and developed a leak at the fuel inlet to the carb. It takes a verythin 15/16" washer/gasket, and I was unable to find one local. Can't seem to find anything online as everything looks to thick. Any ideas?

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Guest imported_Speedster

Ken,

Is it a copper-washer type seal, or a fiber type material?

I think I would prefer a copper-washer type, if you can find one the correct size? You should be able to use a thicker one?

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The washer was rubber which probably not the best material. The rubber tore and I had a little gas shower happening. frown.gif I have located both a crush washer and a red fiber washer. My concern is that the crush washer won't crush enough as the lip is only 1/8" and the crush washers start out at a 3/32" thickness. The red fiber washer is 1/32" thick which seems just right for this application. I also need a second washer 3/8" inner diameter at the bottom, but for that either a fiber or a crush washer would work.

Your thoughts?

carb.jpg

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Guest imported_Speedster

I checked my '29 carbs, and they do have thin fiber washers, both above and below the inlet.

(The upper seal area is made different on my earlier style carbs tho.)

Did you check at someplace like Napa or O'Reilly? They stock some seals like that for later model carbs. Maybe they will have some that will fit?

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I have bought the copper crush washers for both the 15/16 and 3/8 diameter. Tomorrow I plan to buy the red fiber washers from Restoration Supply .

Today and yesterday and went to every auto store including 3 NAPAs and some HW stores. The problem washer was the 15/16". Well I should have some by the end of the week so I can try to start the car next weekend.

Well I use the sunny weather today to power wash the moss off the sidewalk and patio-an annual ritual here in the Pacific Northwest.

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Well I could never get the crush washer to crush on the large opening so I went with the red fiber washer.

Started the car up today. No major issues. One slight gas leak at one of the fuel fittings that I need to fix. Also need to put lighter oil in the engine. I was running 20W50 which was too heavy. Also need to get the shutters to operate better. Not sure if I have everything properly installed on the linkage.

Re-torqued the head bolts and set the timing. Ran very smooth. Waiting for the manifold to cool down before I re-torque those bolts, but no leaks there either.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Great! Glad to hear that it's running again. grin.gif </div></div>

I really appreciate all of the help that I got for this winter project so far.

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