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Questions about 1925 Touring cars-technical help please


kens25

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I have a few questions.I am working on a 25 DB touring that I recently aquired.Were they available in other colores or just black with blue wheels?How does the DIM-OFF-ON switch function.On-Off seems simple enough-but what exactly is the DIM setting for.My wiring harness is gone,and I sure would like to rewire the car correctly.Does anyone have a good wiring diagram?What type of horn button should it have.I have a wire poking out of the column near the advance/throttle levers but no switch.Where should the two small terminals on the floor starter switch be connected.Should there be interior door handles ona 25 touring car? Thanks for any help.Ken

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Black only with blue wheels. Look at the back of the switch, you will see a coil. It is a resistance coil that when currant goes through it lowers the power for "low" beams. Go on Ebay or contact one of the DB parts dealers and either buy a service manual or Book of Information, which is the owner's manual. Both will have a wireing diagram.I think the horn button is a bakelite button for your year.

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Ken:

If you join the Dodge Brothers club you can get a cd of all technical articles and I believe there is a wiring diagram if not I can help you. As mentioned you should get an owners manual also. The switch has a wire wound dropping resistor that the current is sent through when the switch is pointing to dim which provides dim lights. The wiring is very simple and all the parts are readily avaliable. Since you are creating a new wiring diagram you might want to consider putting wires for turn signals in.

You need to fill out your profile so people can see where you are.

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Ken: Jims idea about fuses in right on the money. I bought a four fuse block from radio shack and mounted it under the cowl of my 23 and then fused everything. On the back of you switch you should have a open wire wound resister connected across two terminals. Most people do not worry about it and only run brights.

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Guest imouttahere

I like to keep my DB as stock as possible, so I wouldn't want to mount a fuseholder on the firewall.

Besides, in a professional radio installation, for example, the radio's power line is fused right where it leaves the battery, so that the fuse will blow if ANY PART of the power line (including the part between the battery and the firewall) shorts to ground.

To keep it looking stock, I would use the old-fashioned yellow and brown cloth-insulated wire with an in-line fuseholder, which I would locate the under something, so it can't be seen, or place it as inconspicuously as possible, while keeping the fuseholder very close to the battery so the entire power line is fused.

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Good points but here is the logic I use. I do not want to disable a car by fusing the main link. I mount the fuse block on the back of the dash board up next to the top of the cowl. I use tubular fuses that are the same age are as my car. They look original even if you find it and you have to stand on your head to see them. Some switchs already have a fuse in the back of the switch of the same type. Because I drive my car and there are lot of idots on the road that do not understnd hand signals i install turn signals on my car along with brake lights. They can easly be unpluged if I need to. I also completely rewire a car so I have the opportunity to add the wires and they look original. I buy cloth covered wire and loom material on reels from restoration supplies and I collect old terminal and reuse them. I have put this set up on my 23 Dodge, 23 Moon, 24 Star and I have motion operated brake lights on my 1916 Model T. I started putting safety equipment on my cars when some idiot smashed into my 1923 Chev coupe and totaled it and put me in the hospital. The first thing I install were seat belts then the signals.

Thanks

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