removing acorn nuts to better paint engine block

[mrpushbutton]

PackardV8-DRO=Digital Read Out?

In the lab certifications I used to do the click type wrenches were generally less accurate and had a larger window of non-repeatability. Repeatability is everything in an instrument, accuracy and repeatability. I even brought in my Sears Craftsman needle-pointer torque wrench and tested it, and it was very good, as good as your eyes can see by lining up a needle with a scale.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Personally, When I get Over 100mph in a car, I Forget all about 'Reading Gauges'! LOL

[tbirdman]

Well, I guess I should had masked off the nuts on the head. I did a great job paintingthe head, however when we were tighteningthe acorn nuts, the washers started to grab into the paint and started to lift it up. So my plan of attack is to sand it back down to primer. Install the head and then paint it with the fasteners masked off.

Any other ideas?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Ken, I hope you are Not using lock washers under Head nuts? There should only be Flat washers there, for even torque. And flat washers won't dig into paint.

[tbirdman]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Ken, I hope you are Not using lock washers under Head nuts? There should only be Flat washers there, for even torque. And flat washers won't dig into paint. </div></div>

They are flat washers. I suppose my problem was the paint was too thick?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They are flat washers. I suppose my problem was the paint was too thick? </div></div>

Yep, I Guess 'More is Not Always Better'.

Thick paint under washers would probably change the consistency of the Torque readings Also.

[tbirdman]

What about painting the head off the block with washers used to mask the area beneath them? Has anyone every done this?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What about painting the head off the block with washers used to mask the area beneath them? Has anyone every done this? </div></div>

That should work Okay, as long as you use a different set of washers, than the final ones, or clean the paint from them by soaking in acetone or paint remover.

But I've never had a problem with the washers scraping off the paint, so I really don't understand how that's happening ??? Of course I never put on a second coat of paint, either. (Just one thick coat)

[tbirdman]

Well I sanded the block down to the primer and in some some spots bare metal. That took a few hours. I then shot it with two light coats of primer. I then installed the head, torqueing the nuts in the correct sequence. About a third of the nuts/washers had caused the primer to lift. I then remove one nut at a time and feathered sanded around the washer area. Then I reinstalled the nuts. I have masked off every nut/washer. Plan to shoot one coat of primer where some bare metal was exposed when sanding around the nut, and then a couple coats of Packard green. Should be done by tomorrow night, but now I know less paint is better

[Owen_Dyneto]

Check the directions on your particular brand of engine enamel, but generally you don't use a primer beneath them. The engine restoration shops I've seen don't paint beneath the washers and mask them off with old washers before spraying.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

NOW he Tells you, Huh!

Yes, the Real engine-enamel is formulated to have good adhesion and withstand the high temps. Let's hope the primer you used can withstand the heat also?

[Guest bkazmer]

I don't wish to offend anybody, but I'm sure Packard wasn't this meticulous in finishing blocks and heads. And I agree with the comment on engine paint being used directly on bare metal - using primer is creating a weak link

[tbirdman]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Check the directions on your particular brand of engine enamel, but generally you don't use a primer beneath them. The engine restoration shops I've seen don't paint beneath the washers and mask them off with old washers before spraying. </div></div>

On cast iron heads, primer is not needed per the instructions but won't cause any issues. However the primer gave it a better flat look, which I know is over restoration. I thought about the washers and next time that is probably the better route to take.

[tbirdman]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bkazmer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't wish to offend anybody, but I'm sure Packard wasn't this meticulous in finishing blocks and heads. And I agree with the comment on engine paint being used directly on bare metal - using primer is creating a weak link </div></div>

You are right, but it is sure fun to make them look pretty I've been told that model T's were painted with paint coming out of a hose. How many T's have been restored down to that level?

Not sure if primer is a weak link as it was recommended to use primer if you painted on steel. Probably an extra step unless you wanted to get the benefit of the primer to fill in any unsightly pits etc.

[mrpushbutton]

We always used epoxy primer on (and in) engine blocks. We would strip down the tired old engine; send the blocks, pans, and manifolds, basically all of the static parts on the engine to the chem-strippers. Drop off crusty, rusty metal, come back in a week and pick up very clean metal. We did a final de-greasing with lacquer thinner and compressed air then painted epoxy primer on all interior and exterior rough-cast sections with a brush then sprayed the pans with a normal gun. We then painted with either the Bill Hirsch color or custom-mixed PPG concept 2000 in the case Bill did not match the shade we needed. The primer is <span style="font-weight: bold">NOT</span> a weak link, it is a binder coat to insure adhesion between the block and the color coat. The factories didn't do it because they don't want to spend the money.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

There's No problem using primer on engines, as long as the primer is a formula (like epoxy) that will withstand the high Heat. (around exhaust ports mainly) Some primers designed for painting the body sheet-metal are Not high temp.

[tbirdman]

I did use an epoxy primer.