303 motor innerchangable parts...

[labluvr]

I'M NEW @ THIS SITE, so bare with me ! I'm close to purchasing 1950 88, and

I need some info; will 'a '53 dist. w/ hexkey window work with this motor, or willa good aftermarket (see petronix0 be a smarter way to go !

Will the '54 to '56 heads fit & are they better breathing heads (can you tell the two apart (303 vs 324's)!

What can I expect to pay to have the hardened seats installed etc. 9to r4n unleaded)!

After removing the heads, should I repalce the hyd. lifters to an after market / upgrade ! (I know the motors have lifter / rocker arm problems...)!

Is there anything else I should lookout for / replace as long as I'm going this deep into the motor ! All the help would be appreciated ! Labluvr

[rocketraider]

Several guys on here are good with the early Rockets, but with your questions I suggest contacting Franklin Graf, 330-887-5079 weekends, rocketfest@msn.com and www.Rocketfest.com ; or Ross Lombardi 330-544-4466. They both build these engines on a regular basis and understand them as well as anyone you'll find.

[Oldsfan]

I don't know about the distributors. I would guess they would interchange, but wouldn't want to bet my life on it.

I ran into a guy at a cruise a few months ago with a very stock looking '52 Super 88 convertible (303). He told me he had trouble with the original heads and had replaced them with 324s, so they must work. He also had tri-carbs on it, but I forget what he was using for an intake.

Paul

[RocketDude]

The '53 distributor will work in the '50, however the distributor with the window in the side didn't come out until MUCH later than 1953. That hex key idea for adjusting points was a wonderful GM invention, but by the time it appeared, the engine was far different and in no way would fit your vehicle, unless you are going to change the engine too.!!. It is completely different.

It's not that difficult to set your points, and as many miles as you will be putting on the car, you won't need to do it very often.

I don't have experience with the petronix. I have heard good and bad about it on this site, but in my opinion, the stock one is perfectly fine. Set it up properly and it will last longer than you do..!

[RocketDude]

As far as upgrading your engine, it depends on where you are, and where you're going. Is the engine bad and require a rebuild, or are you just trying to hot rod it a little? If the engine is running fairly decently, I would suggest you drive it and enjoy it, and in the mean time spend lots of time here in the forum learning before you pick up a wrench. I think you have been reading to many hot rod magazines.

That engine was the king of the hill back in the day, but by today's standard, it's a twinkie..! Build it all you want, and a V-6 Honda will still have you for lunch..! If you just want a dependable car to enjoy on weekend putts, forget all that hot rod stuff. I have been building Hi P engines for years, so I do appreciate the need for speed, but it is very expensive, and you won't achieve what you want with that engine. If it's a nice car, leave it stock and dependable and enjoy it.

The later heads will breath somewhat better, but not enough to make it worth your while, unless you need different heads anyway. Absolutely no reason to put in hardened seats, unless you have way too much money and need to get rid of some of it. Today's fuel will not effect them.

The rockers are another story. The original tend to not oil well, and with extended mileage they start wearing and making noise. If that is the case, you can replace them with later models that have a better ratio and improved oiling. The rocker shafts may also wear, so make sure to replace the whole assembly, if they truly need it. that is expensive stuff, so don't just replace stuff unless it's neccessary.

The cams ands lifters were the same until, I believe '56. The difference was in the ratio.If you change rockers, change them all or you will have two different ratios.

Egge Machine - Your Complete Source for Obsolete Engine Parts

is where I got mine, but there are other sources.

What else should you replace while you're deep in the motor? without a doubt, replace the rear main seal..! Before we get into all of that again. tell us more about your specific needs. Their are volumes written about that engine here in the forum. Read and learn before jumping into something.

With all of my years of experience, I got eaten alive cost wise when I jumped into rebuilding the engine. This old stuff is a whole new ball game. Go slow and learn first.

Cruse through the Egge Catalog with your calculator. You will discover they are proud of their stuff, and charge accordingly.

The best advise everyone will give you in here, is go slow and learn before you leap. Lots of helpful people in here who love to answer your questions....

Good luck in whatever you do......

[RocketDude]

I see the Egge link didn't come through. Lets try again...

http://www.egge.com/

[labluvr]

Thanks guys, just putting out some thoughts to ease my mind...

Rocketdude,thanks for the info on the valve seats & the use of "unleaded"

fuel etc...!

Rocketrade, thanks for the 2 leeds on "engine rebuilders" !

One other question, what is the source for the rubber trim seals around the doors & trunk !

[Guest JRZYBOB442]

Sorry I didn't get this to you sooner - Kanter Auto has complete rebuilding kits for your engine.

www.kanter.com.

[Guest oldmobile1]

Rocketraider hit the nail on the head, Ross racing engines Niles Ohio or Franklin Graff in westfield center Ohio are the best. Ross did my 303, with 56 heads and a 30 over bore. Runs sweeeeet. Barks em in 2nd every time. 50's are great cars.