buick man
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Posts posted by buick man
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..... yeah, yeah you just wanted the garage more than the car ... just make damn sure your new shop rafter design allows for at least a 14 headroom for the bendpak lift ... 👹
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It is after all and among a complex array of other things a matter of age dynamics ... today looking back I am amazed really at all the things I was able to take on in far less desirable conditions and circumstances then I would even consider doing today and accomplish them in my 30's with little thought but the task at hand .... 30 + years later I am being humbled and beginning to slowly become aware of and realize my new ever emerging limitations to my previously once long held perceived identity and capabilities. A form of elder adolescence if you will. Getting older sucks no doubt about it but on a more positive note that is why they make easy chairs and the internet for watching and connecting with others such a satisfying joy to behold.
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WOW on steroids ... Adam did you do all the transmission and rear end R&R yourself in your garage or did you have that done somewhere else ?
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Jim: .... Will do my best ....
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Jim: Just a thought and some ideas... but looking at the factory box it appears to be of plastic composite material construction which would easily render itself for a mock up in fiberglass since the original Harrison unit is rectangular ... Consider making yours out of fiberglass via making a proper jig setup. This could be done by constructing a take off by using the general measurements from one still installed in the engine bay and using a cardboard mockup or obtain one on loan and have a lab 3D Model it :
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... Also note that factory spec rebuild float adjustments as stated in the old factory book does not always equate to an optimum float movement range spec due to the cause and effect of our current pump alcohol based (gas-o-hols, corn-hols etc. ) that is currently available at the pumps and can cause idling, loading and start up issues.
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Selim.... Just a few words and heads up comments .... If you are planning on actually rebuilding your dynaflow and not just attempting a " gasket n googh " rebuild you will need spec's on all the factory component wear variances, clearances and know how to mic the components out properly and where to look for spec tolerance wear. You will also need operating PSI ranges at various rpm ranges for the pump and system components in all it's various ranges. ( i.e. I say ranges because the dynaflow does not have gears but pump psi ranges ) before and after assembly. To correctly determine current operating and performance issues before tear down and then once again upon complete reassembly, factory spec pressures at designated rpms need to be determined. This will require an adequate transmission stand and at least 5 high pressure gauges and a couple auxiliary test gauges and a way to spin the dynaflow pumps, because a dynaflow is one big pump machine and operates on various rpm pressure created and not gears and clusters.
Please Note: Many if not most so-called rebuilders do quite well with Torque Flights and Ford o Matics etc ... but the dynaflow is a completely different creature and many lack the proper dynaflow rebuild experience and test equipment/procedures which often result in gasket and googh rebuilds while not actually addressing wear and performance issues nor have the ability to know how to adjust for factory spec performance.ranges So you get back a sealed but still tired old dynaflow .....
Here is a good link to Mudbone's rebuild of a 55 Dynaflow. Click on the YouTube link at the bottom corner and it will take you to his rebuild series. Not much different from yours except for internal pumps and stators but the rebuild and testing procedures is much right on. Also if you do not already have a copy get a designated dynaflow factory rebuild book that tends to expand much further than the factory shop manual.
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Jim: Just a thought but why not cannibalize an existing system since 95% of everything will bolt right up then rig up a new and improved compressor that is optimized to run on current refrigerant and take your fan blower motor out and have someone install a sealed bearing plastic unit that would ensure quieter operation at higher speeds. You can also then fabricate additional internal under dash pathways to convey directional air flow where desired. Install a Gen Alternator to push the loads while still looking like a generator. That way all your controls will be period correct and performance modern correct ....
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.... In the past yes I have and remember " without oil leaks " is only a direct result of installing the upper seal without mangling the seal, twisting it or cutting the seal off at the surface of the cap not allowing for an 1/8 inch protrusion into the bearing cap. Research and school yourself on the technique. Thus the reason for lowing the crankshaft in vivo is to allow upper clearance to insure proper placement. To make the task easier one can use a number of tool aids available to make the job easier.
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Russ might have that install on his website under articles. If he does not, installing is not that difficult. You can purchase a seal chaser on line that is essentially a plastic tool with an end that allows you to pull the upper seal up and over the top of the journal. You want to also slightly drop the center and the next main cap journals by loosening the bolts on each a few turns which by doing so allows the crank to come down slightly enough to give you more upper access room at the rear main journal working area. Loosen the center main a little less then the next rear main so the crank angles down slightly to the rear. Also when installing the rubber type seal don't cut the seal off flush with the upper journal face but allow about an 1/8 of an inch to protrude at each end out so when you put up the bottom half of the rear main cap it will compress upon torque and give a positive seal. Then bring the other journals bolts back up and torque everything. Torque by torquing to 1/2 the spec on each journal bolt, then come back around again and finish the job by bringing each bolt up to full spec torque. In other words, just don't torque each bolt to max the first time. Also do not apply any grease on the back side of the bearings if one should separate from it'a cap journal as this will allows the potential for spinning of the bearing to occur within the cap later which is not a good thing. If you find that lubing the face of the bearing and or crank journal surfaces is appropriate use assembly lube only on the contact faces. Contact Russ as he is helpful.
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... Not to highjack this post but this all reminds me when I had my 57 Caballero out on it's first road trip after buying it a month or so earlier for $ 35 dollars from a dealer who had it sitting in the back their lot as a trade-in but with the reverse anchor out of the dynaflow. Surprising because the car was in real good condition overall and ran like a champ. Summer 1973, it was mid summer on a Friday after work and I left town around 7:00. The trip involved about a 2.5 hour drive running on old 2-lane highways and it was starting to get dark. I pulled on the light switch but no headlights as they were working just fine the night before. I drove as far as I could but had to eventually pull over out in the middle of nowhere before it got too dark so I could check things out and see what i could do to fix things. Long story short eventually and with aid of a small dim flashlight I ended up having to melt off the rubber of a small section of the headlight wire with a match. My tool box luckily had about 3 feet of wire at the bottom so I used that to splice onto the hot wire to the headlight harness and jumped over to the battery positive terminal to get the lights to work independent of the headlight switch. When I arrived I just had to remove the wire from the battery post. I never did replace that headlight switch and just drove it that way and when I needed head lights I just connected my wires back up after splicing in a toggle switch and in-line fuse. Kinda lame but back then and in college had little time or money for cars or car parts. So Ethan. if you have to one can always run a wire with a fuse and switch through the firewall and hook it up under your dash for control of the headlights until you get around to replacing what you need to get things done right.
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You have to loosen and move out of the way ( 2 simple screws ) the shift selector gizmo mounted at the base of the steering column at the floor so you can get the wide mouth lock jaw vise into position.
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13 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
I am not an expert BUT I would say tire purchase at this time is premature. Consider that the tires may be several years old by the time you first get to use them. Keeping the car static on any tires may result in flat spots, and the tires will continue to deteriorate from the moment they are cast.
That plus the description seems to indicate that these are perfect for '30's - '40's cars. The wide white may be too wide for a '57. I bought 2 1/2 " wide whites for my '56 and once mounted they looked just right to me. Remember, the bead of the rim will cover up the inside 1/4 inch of the wide white.
Factory Promo Ad from Fall 1956 and tire white wall width :
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On 9/30/2019 at 4:24 PM, lancemb said:
You definitely don't need to pull the steering column. It's not a fun job, but there are a couple methods, short of having the original tool.
One is to use a long chisel to break the nut loose on the back of the firewall, then remove by hand.
Another that some have used is to keep the large nut in place with a large wrench or locking pliers, loosen small nuts at firewall under hood, and use a band wrench to spin the booster.
Gee ... You mean you can use these simple tools and do it this way ? .....
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John: I think he meant the fuel pump arm is riveted together at the end which in turn rides on the eccentric lobe. There is only the fuel pump, it's arm and the eccentric lobe. A 3-piece Tango so to speak ... Don be aware there is however a factory Service Bulletin on the correct way to install the pump arm in relation to the eccentric lobe's position ... goof that up and you destroy the pump.
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My 57 Buick Chris. It may turn out my existing original pad may look out of place after all my handy work on the underside of the hood, if so I would be looking at possibly the ceramic wool as a possible candidate. There is however an outfit online that sells rock wool in bulk rolls wide enough for our purposes. I would need to approach them to see what the minimum runout on the roll they would be comfortable with without having to buy the whole roll. I am in no hurry but whatever I put under my hood will look like the real deal or I may just have to keep my original pad installed since it's in pretty good shape anyway.
Gee don't know Tank but we learned on this post that pads are falling down and too the ones available look like crap and are of the wrong material and may just be the reason some folks are constantly having to glue it to keep it up ... I would consider that a concern but then again each to his own .... otherwise in whole Great replies, input and ideas. I will continue my search for the "right stuff" and see what rock I can turn over and come up with.
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Well the dirt out on the street is the yellow stuff from 3M is flammable and is noted to separate and liquify spray can lacquer paint. But then what doesn't ? Be ware but there's a guy on eBay who is pushing gray/or yellow "Fiberglass" pad mats supposedly cut from an OEM template. Well that's all fine and dandy for shape but Fiberglass mat is what Tank referred to above and is an industry specific wrap for boilers, heat exchangers and water heaters. It's flash point is well below that of Rock Wool btw. The problem with fiberglass is it's sparse airy weave pattern which allows it to achieve a good R-value however it is not dense enough to adhere longterm given our environment and needs. If we were attempting to just wrap something that would be fine but we are adhering to an overhead substrate and a dense weave material just like rock wool or ceramic wool is what is called for. These fiberglass mats are what you see where the glue is adhering to a glob of spun cotton candy fiberglass fiber mat and the mat itself has separated and fallen. Junk ! Regarding flammability of adhesives, I would not worry at all about how flammable the adhesive is because if it got hot enough to ignite the milli-Mil spec thickness of glue adhered to the metal hood the pad would of been toast anyway and you no doubt have bigger fish to fry ( pardon the pun ) then worrying about if your adhesive will ignite ... 😩
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Thanks for the update info. No secondary product is going to adhere very well to a surface that has embedded petroleum byproduct steamed into the surface. So I suppose the overall prep cleanliness of one's under hood surface area after pulling the old pad out and before applying the adhesive is a key element involved with achieving longterm adhesion. I think a must is to obtain a can of wax and grease remover from a paint jobber. This stuff is used on the surfaces before any sanding of a car that is to be painted so old wax and such is not ground down into the surface and again used after cleaning the metal with something like dawn dish detergent. But under the hood I suppose one can cover the engine and fenders with plastic. Attach a garden hose to a hot water pipe sourced faucet and wash the surface with hot water and soap. You do not want to use anything that is a Orange cleaner/degreaser based product because these citrus cleaners leave organic oil residues on the surface so grease cutting dish detergent that is not plant based is best. After this thorough cleaning let dry. Them apply the wax and grease remover with a hand held sprayer bottle. Use blue shop paper towel sections folded so as to wipe easily and in one direction doing a small section of the hood at a time. Then use another clean piece of folded blue paper shop towel to wipe again in the same direction in the same sectioned area. Repeat this process working the area until no residue appears on the paper towels then proceed to work your way into a new section repeating the process until the entire under hood area is de-waxed clean.
No doubt a real pain to do but I believe if one follows this you are most likely only going to be doing this once giving your adhesive a clean substrate on which to do it job well. The other "adhesion" factor may also be just what quality the actual new hood pad fiber is and how dense and interwoven it is. If not, it can defray leaving an adhered patch of pad to the surface and fall apart due to moisture vapor and heat so a quality tight woven thick pad would no doubt be the best to select. If you can pull it apart by your fingers easily it no doubt will pull apart of it's own weight once set in place.
I am currently in the process of reconditioning the underside of my hood and will post some photos since we all like pictures. I am still in the process of sourcing a good candidate material for the hood insulation so stay tuned ...
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Tank thanks for the input .... if I recall right I believe you yourself had a post last year or so regarding the state of affairs regarding engine hood pads. Did you ever resolve and find one suitable or are you going bare naked under the hood ? If the spray one uses can lift non catalyzed paint regardless if it is sprayed on an area where no one will ever see it, it stands to reason the glue will come off with the paint so kinda defeats the whole gluing process to begin with. I had spent a little time doing a search for a source of hood insulation Rock Wool aka Mineral Wool and also Uni-Therm Ceramic Fiber as a possible 2nd choice but finding it hard to find anything in a size large enough to cut down from a template. I have however found a size wide enough for the task but you need to buy 2 miles of it on a roll to get it. I was hoping someone else has mastered this and it would not lead me into another parts safari.
Edit: Oh it's a good point that forfun posted regarding rodents eating the insulation. I have found that buying some eucalyptus oil and using a spray bottle is a good way to keep them away from under the hood during storage months as well as spraying it around the parked car around the wheels and such. In the spring just wash off. Kinda pricey but it works very well.
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Yeah 2nd that ... kinda wonder how he made the template for the Buick emblem did he have is pressed or fiberglass inlay ?
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Well thanks of the reply but 3M makes a lot of different adhesives and some lift non catalyzed paints as per a simple google search. As for Buick suppliers some are good / some not so good and apparently if some of the reviews on pads from various posts of the past that I recall here have been any indication the pads can be not of the right material or shape or thickness. Of course I suppose one could source out the material that is correct and use your factory pad for a template and cut your own. Just wondering if anyone knows what exactly the material that was used by the factory was is called and if that material is still being manufactured and available ?
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Just getting a consensus on what is most likely the best engine hood pad adhesive to use. It seems some folks like to use 3M's spray canned 08090, but also hear it likes to eat on paint and our under hood areas from the factory have a baked on enamel protective coating so this stuff may lift this off since it is sprayed from the can and is not catalyzed. Perhaps there is a superior 2 part component system that one can mix and shoot through one of 3M's Sput undercoating guns. This would seem superior to anything non catalyzed out of a spray can.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/bonding-and-assembly-us/structural-adhesives/epoxy/two-part-epoxy/
Another factor is of course our era cars use the thick woven glass wool insulation pads. I am intending on re-using my car's factory original pad since it is in structural and visually good shape and relatively clean on the bottom.
Also, since we are on this topic of hood insulation pads, I recall having read more than a few posts in the past few years on just how crappy the new replacement pads are compared to our original factory pads. Has anyone found a source for a good like kind / quality replacement pad that fits and looks like it should be under the hood of a post war classic and not some mid seventies whatever or the like ... ?
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... That's right. Never list your telephone number or show your town or any particular definite information or stats on you. If you live on the western part of the states put your location as west of the rockies or the left coast. On the east coast do likewise. There is no real need to put your exact location on your header. My location ? : Hotel California !
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... well to confuse or relate, we know it ain't a 50 and if you do go 12volt ... perhaps this thought process flow chart is similar to your situation since a new starter is in order while keeping the push start function :
1949 Buick Roadmaster Convertible - not mine
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
Ad Reads: Current owner for the last 24 years. Extensive restoration work completed. New top, all chrome replated. Excellent interior. Black paint with burgundy interior and tan top showcases this beautiful Buick Roadmaster convertible. Fireball straight 8 cylinder engine, dynaflow transmission, power windows and power top.