buick man
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Posts posted by buick man
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Thats was a great article regarding the strapping onto a trailer, with pictures to boot! Thank you.
I must admit that corner strapping works well if you have the attachments on the bed plane located so you can make the connects from axle to bed with short lengths of strap or at least a bed loop that would allow you to pull or decompress the suspension as you cinched the strap from the anchoring point on the trailer edge frame. However, most flat open trailers and especially rented trailers have the trailer frame edged fastening hooks but no in-bed hold down mounts located on the bed surface so one could compress the load.
So Restorer 32, with that said, how would I corner strap the vehicle and compress the suspension without proper in bed loops or attachment points.
If you strapped each corner diagonally from each corner axle or frame position, without applying force downward as you cinch the strap diagonally outward / forward / aft / - then it seems to me if one strap were to loosen or break you would have no lateral support as well. To work well with this system the straps or chains would need to be pulling down the suspension and would have to be as short as possible to limit any unwanted lateral lash movements. The same would occur as you pointed out regarding the X strap method.
I do like this corner method if I could compress the suspension. Short of not having the in bed hold downs I may have to do what I can.
I now have a very clearer idea of where and how to secure the rear end, however I still am having trouble visualizing how to securely fasten down the front end of my late fifties Roadmaster without strapping onto a bendable suspension member/suspension joint or looping over the frame so the strap would only slide since there are no holes in the frame that I know of in this area which would allow the front to be secured by strapping to the frame. If anyone wants to narrow this concept down for me that would be great.
I will however, picture document my adventures with this haul when it happens and post it here. Bye the way this community is something else. Thanks!
David
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Well, thanks you guys for your input. Yeah that 17 mile drive is something everyone should do at one time or another.
I have read that securing the axles downward so you do not get suspension flex is a good idea. Therefore, I have gotten some axle straps, which in turn are to be connected to the belted straps that X-pattern to the outriggers on the trailer itself.
Now I understand how that would work for the rear axle but how does one go about securing and bringing down the front suspension without ruining or bending control arms and the like. I would suspect using the belly frame of the front clip?
Procedure:
Now to see if I have this right, in utilizing this X-pattern method you guys speak of for example, I would attach one axle strap to say the rear drivers side of the axle, then with a new belt strap hook to it and run it over to the rear passengers side of the trailer and cinch it up. Then run a new strap from that same axle strap and run it forward to the front corner passengers
side of the trailer and then cinch it up. Then repeat the process for the other rear passengers side of the axle? I could see by doing this that forward/aft and side ways shear movement would be minimized. Now do I understand the strapping and hold down method correctly as you guys explained?
Someone else spoke about wheel nets and how do they fasten and work?
Lastly, I do not have an equalizer/load leveler/weight-distributing hitch nor do I have an adjustable drop/raise ball setup. I do how ever have the heavy duty rectangular receiver I spoke of that is attached to my frame. Now I will be using the Penske trailer so they may or may not supply this "A" framed equalizer/weight distributing unit. I suspect they only have a trussed front yoke with receiver which would attach to my ball unit. So what are your suggestions with my current status quo and what suggestions could you make.
I will be purchasing an enclosed trailer down the road here, but this deal fell into my lap so I have to go get it and bring home.
David
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Hello:
I am looking for any experienced and best tried and true techniques regarding the proper loading and most importantly,
" Strapping Down" and/or chaining down and securing of the vehicle once on the trailer bed itself to minimize lateral side to side movement/sliding as well as minimizing the front to back slide movements which can occur.
Best overall techniques wanted!
I have seen photos where some guys, in addition to the front and back strapping, also put straps shut into the car's doors and then secure the other ends to the trailer. Don't really know what's going on there. If anyone knows what going on here please comment as well.
By the way, I use to drive professionally, a semi-truck 18 wheeler, long hauling between california and the east coast back and forth as well as through mountainous and winter conditions so I have those skills sets down. I have not had a lot of experience however, hauling cars on open trailers.
My tow vehicle is a 1-ton suspension 4 X 4 Extended Cab F-250 7.3 Diesel with Banks Turbo Charger. I also have an Electric Brake installed along with a 10,000 lb hitch setup. I do not have duals on the rear. The trailer will be a Penske rented trailer with dual 5600 lb axles. I may recall they are electric brakes. I know the U-hauls are surge and not electrical braked from what I have been told so far. So, if anyone wants to chime in on this as well please do. I will be hauling from Los Angeles to San Francisco Bay area. The only real hill will be coming back right out of L.A. going north and thats a big down hill run. The towed vehicle is a Late 50's Roadmaster.
Please let me hear any input which you may have it will be well received and apreciated.
Thanks in advance!
David
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oops... I see you were just cut pasting. Sorry.
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wmsue: From what sources) are you getting this depth of detail info from & could your share the source with us?
Thanks in advance
David
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This is a just a tee bit off of topic.
Since I can see you know your craft, what are your thoughts regarding the recent, last ten years or so, re-chrome jobs one sees. The finished chrome bright work on the heavy chrome late 50's Buicks at car shows, look like that cold shiny plastic chrome look that was on 70' and 80's inside dashes or sprayed on chrome paint.
The chrome on my 57 is stock and has a chrome deep "Nickel" quality to it & not this bright white plastic chrome look you get from the platers today.
Can one still get a good re-chrome job done and have it turn out OEM looking?
Does anyone know a company that still puts their product out the original way?
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Does anyone know where I would go to find a source or chart which could help explain my "Trim" code off of the firewall tag?
I have found good paint code chart sources but no interior trim chart sources for decoding the Trim Code Number off of Firewall tag and translating into what interior I should have. ( color, fabric etc)
Also, I thought all 1957 Roadmasters had the highly polished chrome/aluminum dash bezels that stretched across the entire center face of dash from left to right. I also have for years assumed the Supers had the same but "imprinted" less shiny dash bezels. Could the Roadmasters have had this "imprinted" Super bezel installed as a preference option as well?
I have only seen one convertible roadmaster with this bezel over the years and it makes me believe that during the restoration someone put the super bezel into the roadmaster dash thereby replacing the normal high polished one.
Any and all help on these two questions appreciated.
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Well that's a real good start guys, thanks
Well did you restore your 53 Super or did you buy it already completed as shown?
If you did restore it yourself do you have a before photo? Just love the before and afters.
I am wondering if the Roadmaster 2-door front seat was any different from the the Super 2-door front seat? I have been told that the springing in the seats and backs were different, more in the roadmaster and the attachments to the rails were different. I might post that question up onto the board and see what flies.
David
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Hey y'all....
Would anyone out there have a grasp on a one-stop source for detailed year/model
options and accessories for buick?
With that said, I have a particular request:
What interior options/trims/accessories were available for the 2-door Roadmaster Coupe for 1953?
I have yet to find a comprehensive site/list/pdf etc. for this. Interested in all interior trim/combo options, colors, materials, electric/hydraulic windows etc....
Also interested in finding the rare available accessories which could be added both from Buick and the Dealer as well. Any after market items which were bold and hot for that day in time.
Let me know what if you can.
Thanks in Advance
David
Need Sound Advice for towing Buick Roadmaster on an open car trailer.
in Garages, Trailers, and Towing
Posted
Well it sounds to me that the J-Hook idea is what to use in the front especially if you don't want to bend lower control arms or pivot lower ball joints.
Ok. Let's summarize here. If I owned a flat trailer my first thing to do on it would be to secure a truss plate front and back under the bed welded to the frame itself. Then I would use this base plate system to attach a hold down at each corner which would go through the bed above so I could corner strap and cinch downward the suspension with short straps and have a ratchet system that would torque down all travel on these straps good and tight - On all fours. Then I would double strap forward and aft, tight for oppositional surge forces. Now with this setup the downward force would control roll/yawl and the forward/aft tension would control surge and creep. Without the suspension rock n rollin, the harmonics of E=mc2 would not be a problem.
However, I am renting a penske trailer. Makes me want to rethink this whole thing. I guess I will have to go and recheck the penske trailers out and check for hold downs locations, number of hold downs & access to hold downs etc. Then I will have to make a judgement call. This trailer no doubt has no suspension suppression capabilities to cinch it down. It may also have limited areas to strap and cinch forward and aft. That is probably why you see cars being hauled on these rented trailers behind a U-haul van truck bouncing up and down and swaying port and starboard on down the road. I always try and pass these guys as quickly as possible.
David