buick man
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Posts posted by buick man
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I ran though all of this dealing with my older Ford diesel and cavitation problems that occurs with diesels. But also occurs in gas engines as well but not as much. It turns out the old green anti-freeze is the way to go. You can buy it under the name of International Trucks Brand anti-freeze. The good old ethylene glycol formulla. Use no more than a max of 50/50 blend using distilled water and the world will be a love-in there once again.
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Very nice collection of period photos. See those nice deep hexachrome plated oem bumpers all the cars sported back then. Take notice. Not the crackle bright tinsel bright plastic like chroming coming out of the plate shops now-a-days. The real deal.
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"Thats a very rare piece! Yours is the second one I've ever seen! I was lucky to buy one via Ebay this year - for only 90 USD! I guess that was a real steal! "
... yeah like all the other classics going over the pond!
Rob: If at all possible you should get quality, "color set-controlled", computer generated, print & photo quality prints made of each page. That way the color of the swatches and chips would be exact. Then bind them and sell them to all of us guys. In addition you would be preserving a rare documented item for posterity cause when these are gone they are gone. The swatches could be reproduced as well on attached material backing to represent the real thing. This complete procedure is done in the commercial print media everyday. They utilize various professional software programs much more sophisticated than just photoshop to get this job done. They dice and segment the entire color spectrum of each page item and set for hues, texture and shading.
In the end we would have a very, very close representation of the real thing? Think about it will ya? Thanks!
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Jim - Maybe the switch did originally come packaged in this orange box from Delco-Remy but is now missing? A lot of this N.O.S. stuff out there is still around because it was sometimes seconds, defectives or incomplete assemblies and lasted to this day on dusty shelves and storage boxes just for that reason.
However with that said, it still remains very curious, and as stated earlier, that no real printed or photo material can be had regarding this radio rear speaker mystery so as to be used as a photo reference!? I mean since Buick had this option listed in their sales literature one would think a good number of Buicks sold in 1957 would of opted for the rear speaker and we would be seeing many switches if not just at least some mounted switches by now.
To tell you the truth, I too have never seen another Delco switch mounted in a 1957 Buick or for that matter a stock appearing radio Front/Rear/Both type switch or even a switch to select the various positions with. I have seen rear speakers in 1957 Buicks but with no apparent way to control the various speakers - So what is up with that?
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Just a side note regarding Synthetic Oils: No synthetics have the requisite Zinc / Phosphate to combat flat tappet/cam lobe fatigue. Chemically they have an inability as a carrier to bind these cations in solution. Also there is a lot more petro-chemistry going on as well that does not make synthetics the love child for our flat tappet engines.
Yes synthetics have higher burn rates and lower temperature fluid state properties, but lack the proper structure to bind with Zinc / Phosphate molecules to be used as a carrier medium for them for OUR type of engines.
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Just found this ad on craigslist, thought someone might be interested. No affiliation what-so-ever.
Shown is the ad copy below:
1950 buick roadmaster 2 dr ht - $7500 (palmdale)
Date: 2010-12-01, 9:06PM PST
Reply to: sale-6wrgp-2090491568@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
here i have a 1950 roadmaster 2 dr ht original and complete $7500
it has power windows
needs full restore
been sitting 40 years.
661-341-0557
serious offers
no trades
Location: palmdale
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
Here is the link:
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Yes please do. My suggestion would be to make a list with major heading categories then list by year, make, part number is applicable.
I would be interested in receiving your list so count me in !
Oh as for WWII .... my dad was one of the original Merrill's Marauder's and always had Buicks growing up from the earliest time back that I can remember.
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Never use chlorine bleach on a white wall tire or any product containing bleach on a white wall tire. It breaks the material down and causes chemical link damage on a microscopic level resulting in premature degradation of the white wall. ie. Cracking, blotching, chalking.
To clean get a very fine 320 or lighter grit sponge sanding block and a bucket of water with a clean sponge.
Spray the white wall tire with citrus cleaner and let set for 5 minutes. Then lightly apply with the damp not wet sanding block in a circular straight around motion for one complete revolution of the tire. Then rinse and repeat as necessary in same fashion making sure to clean off the black portion of the side wall every time as the white will run down. Do not sand up and down and do not apply any amount of pressure what-so-ever, let the sponge sand block do the work.
Important: When done to satisfaction, let stand to dry completely then seal the tire. This is vitally important. Also make sure to Use a marine grade product that is non-petroleum based for vinyl and rubber. Again, a Non petroleum based product!
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No. Use the float chargers while in long term storage. Use the dime store battery chargers when you have a "dead" battery and need to crank above that level or mummy state or charge threshold before the battery can actually accept a charge. Then put it on a float charger and leave it there. If, that is if, your aim is to maintain and keep a battery alive and well for as long as possible before you have to buy a new one.
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billybird: Here is the best site I have found:
Introduction To Buffing and Polishing - Caswell Inc.
.... I know this will help you.
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I remember that the felt just slides into a slot below the point base and rides against the distributor lobe. I do not recall a clip for the felt. I know this is the way Blue Streak Points were used with the red oil felt.
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Well yes and no. The floaters give the battery what it really needs. Micro Millisecond current fluctuations that on the surface of the plates allows for non-degradation of the substrate. Turning on and off a blunt charger does nothing for maintaining the plate surface integrity it just moves ions around in a jam like manner. In the long run the battery will be worst for wear. The blunt chargers are good for fast ion pushing but not for maintaining a long life battery. Kinda like just eating sugar for breakfast, lunch and dinner instead of a healthy proportioned & balanced dietary intake.
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You have to have a battery charger that is capable of emitting a milli-mirco-second of float charge capability added to the sine-wave regular charge that the cheaper battery chargers and tenders produce. This micro-beam is called a float charge and is the only way to eliminate sulfur-build up on the plates. You will find these charges sold at Marine sites and stores. They start at about 125 dollars. The basic store bought auto battery chargers and so called tenders do not offer this range of true float charge capabilities. You thereby "cook" your plates and drastically reduce the life of your batteries.
The off/on light switch is good substitute for auto parts store battery chargers but a poor alternative to advanced pulse float technology chargers as described above.
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Thank you Stella ... I think?
Edit: I think I meant: Thank you .... Della!
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Here is my reasoning unbalanced on a pinhead.
In the third photo exhibit we shall call "C" is shown a Delco Remy Box that supposedly originally contained the chrome below dash escutcheon as shown. Now suppose for a moment, since Delco Remy were the ones who made the Wonder Bar radio & by inference made the switch for their radio as evidenced by photo exhibit "C", then it stands to reason that this is the switch escutcheon that would have been installed in our 1957 Buicks. But what remains is what "Knob" was used? One would think that Delco Remy would of supplied the switch as well to go with their escutcheon.
Now it is known that Delco Remy tech books strongly stress that their speaker and no other speaker be used with their radios due to the magnets and cone balancing they put into them to match the resistance and impedance characteristics of the Wonder Bars Transducers etc. otherwise their radio "warranty" would be effected and Buick or the Dealers would of been very sensitive to this point! Since Delco Remy was very particular about their speakers then this could also be implied they are as much with the switches used and would supply such a switch.
Therefore, since Delco Remy obviously supplied the escutcheon as shown in photo exhibit "C", there is no doubt that one could reasonably determine that this is the proper item to use when installing a speaker switch for the Deldo Remy Radio Product line. That in fact it is only mountable from under the dash; that the supplied wires as shown from previous posts, show a short wire to the radio so mounting would be made near and below the exact radio location. This reinforce my previous post pointing out that the Buick Factory would be concerned about one hand operation and Delco Remy concerned with using their supplied hardware for proper operation and warranty concerns.
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Great find Earl! I wonder if I could put it in my Porsche Targa. It would pass smog for sure.
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Post a couple picks of it so we can all enjoy in your bliss! I too wish I could drive mine now as well.
So, if I am going to move my car with the Dynaflow out, then I must bolt up the rear end and support the engine in a brace system. I will also disconnect the exhaust manifold to header junction so I do not crack the manifolds.
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I want to be able to take the car off all the jack stands and move it into the corner and out of my way while I am rebuilding the transmission. So I gather to do this, once the transmission is out & on the bench, I simply re-move the rear end forward the 8-inches and reattach the rear end components to the frame then I can move the car?
Also you mentioned about: ". . .Loosen the starter and move forward but keep one capscrews started to make the reinsertion of the tranny easier..."
I am not too clear what you are saying here when referring to supporting the engine just before disconnecting the trans from the rear of the engine. Could yo clarify this a little please?
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Yes good points. Perhaps this forum can bring out some who can add and speak about the various approaches to rebuilding the dynaflow and what parts and techniques that are essential to a proper rebuild including some more ways on how to "tweek" the dynaflow for more power, reliability or responsiveness !
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Thanks Jim for the lead in San Franciso I will check them out. Thanks CW for your detailed and informed reply. I have the manuals and will look into getting Ron Session's Book as well. I knew there were miles of differences in part pieces but was unaware of the clutch binding material issues.
CW: Any other 'Mods' that you know about for the Dynaflow that you would care to share or are all of these mods found in Ron Session's Book?
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Marty - Hope only the best for you. Stay in there!
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Well yes, I am considering rebuilding it myself. True, I have never rebuilt a dynaflow before. I rebuilt my first engine when I was 12 and it was a 1957 Nailhead. Ran real good. My uncle was a machinist and my father a farmer in his early years and a good family friend owned a automatic transmission shop so I had good guidance and was exposed to machinery and engines at a very early age.
You are right, if I knew of a proven good rebuilder I would most likely give that route some serious considerations. I would still review what suppliers and parts he was planning on putting in since that is in my nature.
I want to first get a handle on the best suppliers and parts available cause knowing that information in invaluable regardless which route I go, and would be a help on this board for anyone else rebuilding theirs. So if anyone has anything to offer, it would appreciated!
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Does anyone know who makes the best "hands - down " Kit in terms of quality, workmanship and most complete & comprehensive parts listed rebuild kit available? Or does one have to just cherry pick the components separately together to assure the best?
Other than Gasket Seal Kits, What about buying these old NOS Dyna Flow 'hard' transmission parts from these type sellers. I have heard a lot of this NOS stuff is really old shelf rejects. True/Not True?
Suppliers:
There are the ones on ebay. These guys tell me there are only very tiny network of suppliers for the hard parts and they make their own gaskets?
Then there is Alto Manufacturing where a few of the kit guys have told me they actually get their pump parts from.
Then there is Kanter, don't know if this outfit is now pacific rim junk or not as I have been told they too have now gotten sucked into the pacific rim black hole,
Then there is Fatsco Transmissions. They have been around for a long time. I have heard both sides of the story here as well.
Anyone care to comment. Even if we do not rebuild our own transmissions, making sure that all parts are top notch before you get it rebuilt, just manages the 'unknown' factor a little more in your favor.IMO It's bad enough trying to find someone to even claim they know how to rebuild these things, not alone wondering if the parts they are using are any good.
I know, you say, take it back if it does not work. Well I have found if you do your homework and manage the crap factor, chances are the outcome improves drastically so you don't have to on your projects.
Anyone care to comment?
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Does anyone know who makes the best "hands - down " Kit in terms of quality, workmanship and most comprehensive rebuild kit available?
There are the ones on ebay ? Then there is Alto Manufacturing where a lot of the kit guys get their gaskets and pumps from. Then there is Kanter, don't know if this outfit is now pacific rim junk or not, then there is Fatsco Transmissions.
Think I will do a new post and see what comes up.
1957 Buick upholstery trim and colour options
in Buick - Post War
Posted · Edited by buick man (see edit history)
Rob: I hear you. But my suggestion was not for you to bust you hump.
So here is my plan:
Just take the book to any computer graphic design firm in your area found out of the yellow pages. Drop in to get a work up estimate and let them know you want to reproduce this book as a CMYK or better graphic work up. Tell them to give you a price on a scan the book deal, whereby they basically graphically enhance each page via high tech software, bundle the completed scans then print on a high definition, high line output graphic printer. Then bind the copies together as least expensively as possible. Get an estimate from them on this and then report back to us.
So with the finished bid cost, as a group we could then all pitch-in and figure out what the cost for each one of us would be after taking a poll as to how many of us 57 fans would want one. I should think quite a few. There is no copy right infringement after all this time and besides this would be for group learning and enhancement purposes and not for profit.
Not a whole lot of time on your part and we could add to the cost for your time.
P.S. I did this sort of thing one time on another site dealing with my old porsche and an old data brochure and it worked out just fine.