buick man
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Posts posted by buick man
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… well blackish it is then …..
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I will be checking over my original untouched clean rear ones today to find if any signs of paint but did not find any on my fronts so that is curious … well I do have some special formula mix i created a very very close match to silver cad plating using a catalyzed single stage urethane that took silver flake, black tint and flattening agent in exacting amounts to perfect. Used my freshly real silver cad plated sway bar as a calibrator. The springs are of minor pitting here and there so might just spray them with light gray epoxy primer then spay them with my " Exacto-Cad" formulation and let it go at that …. but was just inquiring if someone had factory NOS springs in a Buick box just for kicks to see what was up for painted color or as you guys expressed not painted …. all the after market folks paint their springs to keep them fresh looking no doubt and that is why they are black, gray or gold as I have seen them …. think sometime in the mid sixties the springs came from the factory in gloss black and the rest of the suspension parts in different gloss of black as well with little or no silver cad plating …..
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Would like to hear from anyone who has or has documented the actual factory color for front and rear GM Buick factory springs … this request is of course not to be confused with after market or replacement NORS springs like from MOOG or the like … dave
Note: This would be factory correct for around 56 to 58 year or there about not including the 40's or 60's …..
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… Cool … and as Johnny Carson use to say … " I did not know that " :')
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… perhaps rig up a large high horsepower 90 degree right hand held drill with bar handle and turn it with that while the belt is off … have an assistant performing the necessary other bleeding / tasks as the manual requires … once bled then hook the belt back up … you can weld a socket to a short socket extension so it will fit on the pulley nut ….
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… well good reading and many logical yet passionate dissertations presented about and for a resolution to this quarter the OP presented … what I have to humbly offer and worth mentioning perhaps is to consider that the inevitable slight invisible hand of fate is upon us … forces from the macro all the way over to the micro … the horizontal to the vertical so-to-speak …. the results of which we are now recognizing … these declining numbers of members both new and old are not only due to basic attrition rates, nor inabilities real and or created to attract new blood but are in great part due to the changing of popular demographic interests for current novelties, fascinations, and life related passions … however outside even this spectrum is the very visible forces forged and coupled inflicting the real ongoing current collateral damages to the core of this membership and all hobbyist alike … the past 30 years of daft economic, political and trade related practices leaving much of this once self proficient core of the middle class the very essence of what Buick stood for shrinking day by day in real economic terms for both present and future prospectives … leading onward without the ability to replace that same core of those that came before and the list goes on & on … changing pages, publication drafts per year, dues, parking orientations nor even mergers with the dwindling mass of others will not deflect the forces brought upon us by this foe of our time. The original founding intent of the BCA was for as I understand it, the preservation and appreciation of our time capsules aka our Buicks … kinda like what is old shall be new again … what has been so shall be again. In a nutshell the current BCA will survive as long as it is allowed to survive by these forces however during that time we can stay active, accommodating and appreciative of what our particular passion of Buick stands for to us and participate in that romance as long as there is a glow - dave
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First off buy a 1957 GM authentic Factory Shop Manual as this will answer many questions … WTS you have the cam-o-matic version and yes they are Trico … and the wiper arms have a tab indent that allows you to pull the wiper arm off of it's geared perch as shown in the Factory Shop Manual …. If you have an external vacuum mechanism you can use that as a good source of vacuum and apply that and see what happens … could also be one of the two transmissions under the dash on either side are stuck from sitting or the cable lines are off or broke … if the system works with an external vacuum creating machine attached to it then most likely your engine vacuum pump located attached to the bottom of the internal oil pump inside the oil pan of your engine is faulty … unfortunately there are no replaceable parts and working ones new or used are almost unattainable at best and an electric conversion can be a last ditch route to take ...
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… yes but I believe that year of box has a means to tighten up the drag in the worm gear assembly for acceptable rebound … take a look at your shop manual … If you are not using fluid at discernible rate we wouldn't worry about the bottom having a wet look happening … if you isolate all components it may very well be inside your box after all like some internal lash shims or the like … keep us posted
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… Ken real nice write-up … and thought I was over the top about details … good work , oh and here is a link to help solve your clear coating of the aluminum compressor to keep it from chalking as aluminum will do :
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Maxx-Clear.html
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… good advice that was given above … drop the pitman arm and make it easy be buying a compressible pitman arm remover tool … this will then isolate the steering box … have someone turn the steering wheel as per your directions with the car running and with the motor off … then hand re-install the pitman arm onto the box without the cross link attached and use the arm to grab onto and attempt to move it back and forth as well noting any free play or knock … then sherlock it from there …. item by item ….
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… nice narrative and great time of year to travel … all ya need is a sleeping bag and a AAA card !
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On September 10, 2017 at 2:55 PM, Topper1961 said:
Personally I think it`s great that someone look further behind the rearbumper, and restore some classic old trailers as well. So - just go ahead and start reading Buick trailer topics and factory brochures, interesting reading!
PS! As long as you don`t end up like this guy.......
,,, yeah well at least he has the correct size factory white walls ….
On September 10, 2017 at 2:55 PM, Topper1961 said:
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… Oh did I mention … this is a " Body On " installation that you can easily accomplish using this approach … Also I have received some learned responses indicating that perhaps not all cars received these body U-shims or if so just where needed … or they were added later at some point … Well that may very well be the case with your car so I would reinstall what you find and not try and reinvent the wheel even if you think that the new insulators will just "take up" that old slack … Like to point out that this particular 57 had the original factory tape which kinda looks like old scotch tape … this was attached over the metal U-body shim and slung down over the upper rectangular insulator and onto the frame truss perch they sat on top of … kinda of interesting … so I know mine were all original so I just replaced what I took out to keep things the same … there was one perch on the driver's side that did not have one but when replacing I installed one there anyway as I could assertain if it was intentional or just left out by some guy with a sore shoulder in the line pit …. it synched up just fine when torqued and no concernable differences were noted before or after installation with regard to the body pan or frame perch … since we are only talking about a 16 gauge thick washer …..
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… O.K. as requested here are the rest of the photos for all you kinky guys who requested the " show all " … here I am demonstrating the lifting technique and jack setup used … along with staging photos …..
Photo 1: Shows the original setup consisting of upper square metal shank vulcanized rubber mount, upper thick U shape washer and bottom round mount which accepts the large round washer and cone tipped set bolt ...
Photo 2 : Showing new rubber set, new stainless U-washer, original newly Cad Plated round washer, original barrel shim epoxy painted and original cone set bolt epoxy primed with galvanized paint applied
Photo 3: Illustrating set up using rubber grease … note this is the passenger side mounting sets
Photo 4: Showing applied grease …Careful ….This photo below shows what way too much grease looks like, this is just after I applied it on the very 1st one, it was then immediately wiped down by 90 % with a shop paper towel to remove all the excess to just a light transparent coating film … note: after mounting the first one, I drastically reduced the grease to just a slight swipe film as mentioned with a cotton swab and dab on each component with a dry shop towel … the mounting was made much easier upon torquing as the lower mount if too much grease is applied will allow the lower mount to slide in a clock wise fashion to one side as torque is applied … greatly reducing the grease to just a very light cursory smear transparent film cured that scenario … However with all this noted, please remember to machine oil the threads of the pointed set bolts before installing as to help obtain the correct torque values while making sure the threads are clean and free of debri …. Also wait to torque the bolts after installing all of their complete rubber components on the side you are working on … then go back over them and torque using the half to half torque technique … which is first torque all the bolts to half the full factory spec then go back over them and increase torque to the full factory spec …. I found 30 lbs to be ideal while using a spade standard wide screw driver to help keep the lower round mount from wanting to slide over in clock wise direction … with that noted, some install dry as the factory did and works, I choose to use the rubber grease … we shall see how is all works out once on the road …..
Photos 5, 6 & 7: This is the jack set-up I chose to lift the rocker panel and unsecured/unbolted frame up on the passenger side. Before I did this, I had to temporarily re-install the complete old upper and lower rubber mounts, barrel shim, large washer and cone set bolt into each location on the driver's side since I had previously removed them as well, if you do only one side at a time this would of course not be necessary … This is important because you DO NOT want to have the body shift on the frame while lifting the passenger side so keeping the other side of the car/frame securely mounted holds everything true in place and on their perspective marks …. The double pad beam truss top attachment on this jack was acquired separately from the jack itself and attaches by removing the normal round center pivot pad and replacing with this setup attachment … it allows one as can be seen to mount and hold objects while at the same time distributing the stress loading along the rocker so no metal denting will occur … a towel was used as a buffer between the sheet metal and the wooden beam for added cushion protection ….
Photos 8, 9, 10 & 11 : Staging of mount installation along passenger side mount truss areas ….
Photos 12,13,14 & 15 : Showing the most difficult area … The rear most outboard mounting points 2 each and the inner rear wheel well arch mounts 2 each… shown is the passenger side with a piece of 1x4 set so as to give me lift … however after doing this, I found out the hard way that by just keeping the car jacked and lifted in place and installing all the mounts from front to rear OR rear to front that the frame will be lifted enough to get to these rear 4 mount locations .. of course my entire exhaust system in these photos had previously been removed as was the complete rear bumper components … this could be an advantage in accessing the 4 rear mounts but probably removing the rear exhaust or bumper to do this would not be necessary ….. The trunk bolts are long and pointed as are the forward side mounts and unlike them, when properly installed are pointed down toward the ground ...
Photos: 16, 17, 18 & 19 Demonstrating the how the front body mounts located at the foot sill of the fire wall are mounted … as can be seen here the washer and bolts set is of a unique factory design consisting of a special cage nut flange assembly and a specially cut heavy washer that is needed clear the mount as shown when fastened to the frame … there is one set located at the foot well on each side
Photos: 20-24 : Photos of complete rubber mounts setup, jack with 4 x 4 block and process of installation of first upper square rubber mount, with the thick U shaped washer place between the upper square rubber mount and the frame perch, the upper rubber mount can be seen protruding thru the frame perch … this is followed by the lower round rubber mount and finally the placement of the heavy washer and pointed set bolt …. shown are the frame mounts on the outer sill areas …..
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… let's be honest guys, for $ 4500 if it was down the street from me I would most likely not hesitate to buy the car and bring it home … Stage in a safe and amicable location on 4 ramps, go to the parts store, purchase 4 gallons of MMOil, load it into my sprayer and give it a douching from bow to stern, keel to bridge mast. Then pull a lawn chair along side, give her a name … have a beer and just look at it over … as I would do often if nothing else ...
… one of my first cars when I was 16 was the acquisition of my next door neighbors 49 Super Sedanette … he had acquired it though someone at work who was the original owner and drove it back and forth to work through the spring and summer of that year .. then it sat next to his house through most of the winter … one day I was shoveling snow for him and asked if he would be interested in selling the car to me … he thought about it for a few moments and replied … " if you can get it running it's yours …" took me about a day or so, cleaning plugs, filing points, and put a gasket kit in the carb … it started right up .. one of the most smoothest running and driving float barges I have ever owned … great clean interior and very decent gun metal blue paint job … it was all there and accounted for even the clock and radio worked as it should …. yeah the right place at the right time I suppose ….
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… Look If you can weld and have sheet metal and a metal bender at your disposal and a cheap english wheel, this car presents absolutely no problems …. the engine area rust outs can be easily sourced and the seats have the original pattern and the dash looks good as well … for example: guys are putting 1997 Porsche 993 last of the air cooled engines into their 1976 Targa and sinking 30 k in the process to do just that … the guys that do these big $$$ swaps/upgrades, justify the adventure by stating " It's a hobby of passions and not investments " … of course many who say this come 8 years later or so when it comes time to sell either … eat the losses or part the cars out to hedge their so called hobby acquisition of passion …. so too as in this example I believe the guy would listen to the sound $ 4,500 makes as you comb your fingers along the paying edges of the bills set in front of him … you in return would easily have a real gem even if only some of the work gets done for your passionate endeavors, toil and time consuming arts n crafts … It is a beautiful rare bird and where else are you gonna find another one like this at this price and as complete and low milage to boot … ?
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… ceyjay did not mean to high jack your post … hope you find your mufflers ….
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$ 190 boxed and shipped each ? … Sold :-} …. Pete: I will take the dual main muffler shown in the top photo … PM me with an address as to where to send the green backs to …. dave
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… like I said, go be the detective and ask around with the offset, silkscreen and/or computer graphics folks, your bound to come up with a few leads and avenues to pursue … it just may take more than one to get it done right … looks like a good noble adventure to me ...
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… possibly a litho type silk screen approach may work. I would contact some commercial sources and bring in a good surviving example of what you have … thinking it may of consisted of a heat based set process back in the day … please keep us informed as this would certainly be a great mystery to solve and reproduce ….
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… now that's a clean machine ….
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… so are you referring to the resonator at the rear corner outlet muffler or the main dual resonator muffler … ? Give up a photo and school me so I can see what you guys are referring to …
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… message sent
Just curious regarding correct factory color for spings
in Buick - Post War
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…. these are the original springs I am using and still are good to go ... new ones IMO elevate the car too high and beers tend roll off the trannny hump way too easily on every turn which causes me to swerve around a lot on the road making me look like I can't drive in a straight line …. Ha !