[Str and bent eights!]

… yeah to the factory nailhead color or correctness mantra … after a disappointing and dissaproving attempt at finding the correct color for my 364 from any of the usual suspects hawking the color and since I had an almost pristine low mileage existing original engine paint to color match to .. I formulated my own using Dupont Nason as a starting base … took me about 6-months of intermittent attempts when time allowed to master the correct color tint and hues and developed a code… most engine paints offered IMO were done to engine paint comparisons that as a "Calibrator" used the original paint but it had over the decades yellowed due to the use of leaded fuels thus rendering the famous nailhead factory paint color on the greenish hue side of the scale … blue plus yellow equals green … to task, my paint jobber mixed the starter batch from his interpretation from an example part I supplied … this he did 3 times but each time was off on the green scale side of things … I then had him give me toner of blue, black & white and adding the correct amount of flattening agent for the proper age effect proceeded dally when time permitted to get the correct dried code after many many attempts and time consuming efforts … something I would not venture to want to do anytime soon again … but it can be done if persistent ….the only reason I went to this much trouble was I just wanted to color match touching up chips on what was otherwise overall very good paint mostly the valve covers .. the intake manifold had succumbed to the leaded gas yellow green conversion … if not for the need to correctly be able to touch up the nicks and such and my ignorance as to just how hard it was to color match something I most likely would not of attempted that and just got some simple yet incorrectly toned nailhead paint and been done with it btw your middle photo looks real close …. - uncle dave

[55 ROADMASTER 2 SPEED DYNAFLOW WONT SHIFT ON ITS OWN]

… and a little more trivia ... apparently for 57 internal stator linkage changes made off the line launches in L a thing of the past and ineffectual which had been the standard practice for hot foots prior to 57 … however with the new stator changes delivered more low end grunt and too the engineers also tweaked the stator launch pad surge change while in D under full highway WOT to assure for any needed highway quick passing which at this rpm took advantage of the 364's enormous torque and especially if equipped with the Century, Super or Roadmaster's version of the 364 i.e. hotter lobby cam, different higher domed n cut pistons, new profiled 1.6:1 rockers from the previous years prvious1.5:1 and the kick-in higher 10:1 compression all neatly packaged and delivered via a big mouth thirsty 4-bbl carb via the 2507S Carter or the Rochester 4 g… rendering a very noticeable surge bang albeit softened by it lardy 2-1/2 tons but while rolling it got the job done …. - uncle dave 

[Dynaflow transmission...does anyone own one that does NOT leak?]

… the only dedicated orange silicon gasket I have been introduce to was in 2002 when I bought a pair for the lower exhaust vale covers on my 911 3.0 engine and they are still on there today with many take-offs and reinstalls because valve adjusted is periodically required … these are thick and soft and can as was mentioned resist high heat enclosures and they require absolutely no sealants whatsoever …. - uncle dave

[Another nailhead question]

… here is what I do … while you have the pan off and the oil pump removed and the oil filter boss removed from the engine block ( that part that the filter attaches to ) , remove and clean/check the flow valve/spring assemblies in both the oil pump and the psi valve assembly integrated into the oil filter boss …. reinstall the oil filter boss and attach the oil filter canister filled with oil with filter installed since you have just rebuilt items in the engine … then simply get yourself the following :

 

Some clear 1/4 inch I.D. tubing about 10 feet,  a large 3-foot x 2-foot black plastic concrete mixing tub, a cheap plastic 1-gallon bucket a simple plastic cheap small pumping fluid transfer hub sized for the tubing, and a couple screw clamps  from your local hardware store …

 

Now ...take one end of the tubing and just quickly stick it up into the hole that is intended for the oil passage of the oil pump when it is in place … the tube will stick right up in the hole but may want to wire it into place just to make sure it does not drop down …  then take the other end and determine the amount of length you will comfortably need to both attach the drill to the pump hub and have enough tube left for the piecer to go from there into your

1-gallon cheap plastic bucket …. now pour  2 quarts of cheap 30 wt oil into the bucket … check to make sure the valve covers and valley cover are off so you can see everything then you can begin spinning the drill.   If you have indexed your rocker shafts properly upon the rebuild oil will begin to come out of the rocker shaft ends within 1-minute of pumping and you will be able to see oil bleeding throughout the cam valley components … If you can see oil coming out after a minute you know you will have proper flow and oil psi abilities ….

 

The distributor does not need to be removed … and you can watch the flow through the tube and observe every area … many time these psi valves get gummy bear and cause flow restriction problems ..  - uncle dave

[Dynaflow transmission...does anyone own one that does NOT leak?]

… do it one step further and find a reputable 3D printer and see if they can use your new kit gaskets as a template to 3D print them in a given gauge of silicon gaskets rather than paper … the heat sink effects of cooling and heating and as mentioned the high psi operational status of the dynaflow coupled with the fact that the case and associated mating surfaces have no reglet patterns just flat surfaces to which the thin narrow paper seals have to lay upon no doubt contribute to the sealing longevity of the unit as a whole … yes fresh new but I personally like the idea of rendering a complete silicon gasket kit albeit in the correct tolerances for any given surface part area … this if not for the complete transmission rebuild at least for the pan gasket at least with the added bonus of being able to reuse them upon fluid changes as well …. - uncle dave

[Hood insultion]

…. no your right the hood insulation originally was gray not yellow … If you cannot find the gray hood insulation take a inconspicuous piece of the  yellow and add a little middle gray clothes dye to it and see what happens as I have done this in the past on foams and such and it has worked out yet never tried it on hood insulation … I do not believe the original hood insulation in the middle fifties was fiberglass but a retardant treated spun glazed wool product 

 

Also cannot get the link to classic buicks above to open … ?

[1960 Electra 225 "flat-top", TX. car since new]

9 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

Lots of times collateral costs are not figured in.

This picture doesn't even show the living room carpet, couch, and loveseat that went into this job.

… nor the endless hours of scrapping, degreasing, cleaning, reassembly, losing of parts, finding of parts … setting up shop equipment, hoses, airlines, compressors, tools, shelving  and the lists goes on … 

[I removed a 1953 hood by myself pictures]

… good job but when I read the header I envisioned some photos of you just grabbing the hood and tossing it into the corner of the shop ….   - dave

[1953 Roadmaster Wichita CL]

… well actually-  no it is not easy to duplicate the original colors and no the paints that are available today are kinda close sometimes but most of the time not correct and I have tried most of them at one time or another and is why now I tint and flatten my paints myself … It kinda goes likes this'  someone had to tint that paint your conveniently using and what did they use as a calibrator … ?  a pristine original engine or more likely one sitting around that looked sort of good or was copied from an older restoration that was copied from someone else's interpretation of " aqua blue " or whatever factory color … Regarding engine paints …. all those older original engine paints however had the paint turn a hue on the greenish side due to years and years off leaded gas fumes permeating the surface  or the black that seems to always again be someones interpretation of what the fender skirt paint sheen was at the factory until you remove a part that has covered factory paint  for decades and then you discover that new paint is way more flat and most likely was blended for a one size fits all to meet realistic marketing parameters … 40's & 50's enamel flats were of a different hue and amount of flattening agent used then the more flat used from 61 onward thru 67 and then these paints got way way flat into the 70's …. 80's … ]

 

Of course we realize that convenience and necessity dictates one's choices but let's not rectify and standardize mediocrity as a replacement for correctness and based standards … that is if all this really matters to one or not ...

[For Sale: 1953 - Buicks 50th Anniv. 20 page sales brochure]

… another option instead of dissecting this brochure why not have it professionally digitally color scanned and printed out … I have done this many times … it is done at very little cost to do so and you keep the original as is and can reproduce as many more of these or any of the particular pages as you want … anytime you want .. all this without sacrificing the original brochure ….  - dave

[1953 Roadmaster Wichita CL]

8 hours ago, RiKi5156B said:

…  I think at the least it’s worth negotiating over. Engine detailing I like to do and it’s one of the cheapest areas of a car to do. It does require partial disassembly such as remove radiator and accessories but not difficult just a little time. A refreshed engine compartment adds tremendously to the look. 

… I don't care for the content of the additional comments. I would restore visually that engine compartment, there is nothing to be gained by leaving it original, in my opinion.  I would chip away at it with fresh paint, fresh stickers from Bob's on the Power Steering, etc, and it would be much better to live with and show.

 

 

… yeah no bad and everyone has a take on this ….  but IMO and the point I make will it be correct and look as correct after detailing and repainting … and if that really matters then very doubtful … and what if every twitchy fingered back yard canner jumped onto repainting everything what would we have in the end to compare and contrast what is proper original to  ? … and if this engine paint is original then there goes another calibrator for others to use and these covers look way o.k. just the way they are … the new owner can just wash clean then clear coat them if they desire and the rest of the engine will clean up just fine as well  … Just a perspective for the preservation of proper correctness … 

[For Sale: 1953 - Buicks 50th Anniv. 20 page sales brochure]

… good sale ...

[1953 Roadmaster Wichita CL]

FROM THE AD SELLER SAYS :

 

" Two owner, 1953 Buick Roadmaster 4 door sedan equipped with power steering, power brakes, radio, heater and auxiliary under seat heater. Original paper work includes new car purchase order, Owner's manual, antifreeze card and other purchaser literature. Odometer shows 64k miles which is believed to be correct due to documentation which comes with purchase. First year for Buicks "nail head" 322 V8 with original Rochester 4 barrel carburetor, oil bath air cleaner and original engine paint color. Brakes were completely redone approximately 4 years ago to include power booster unit. We relined front brake shoes and rebuilt wheel cylinders after we put it in stock. Car was completely stripped to metal and painted Matador Red approximately 12 years ago. Interior completely replaced! Beautiful 50's Buick. At D&P Sales LLC in Goddard, KS. (316).305.2180) "  … and asking $ 12,500.00 .

 

Edit:  Oh and it appears the chrome and stainless is worth more than half the asking price alone … and whom ever buys this beauty please refrain from rattle canning those original factory colored & patina valve covers by using someone's idea of what so called Buick green or blue should or should not be …. which is usually wrong.

 

 

… and the engine with the right valve covers and engine valley cover installed :  

 

… and a couple photos with the new for 53 optional air conditioning and with power steering …..

 

 

… and so the question remains … which one has the correct air cleaner for 53 … ?

 

 

[Nail head question]

… Jack apparently you have yet talked to Russ the Nailhead go to guy …. buy some parts from him and in turn he'll help you with any of your questions …. and get it right the first time ….

 

http://centervilleautorepair.com

 

 

 

 

[FOR SALE: 1957 Roadie Model 76A Coupe with Video]

… Just came across this Buick for sale and has a video to boot …. so what do you all think ? ….. Kinda like the animation within the video as well … nice touch 

 

http://classiccarroom.com/classic-cars-for-sale/1957-buick-roadmaster-2-door-hardtop-for-sale/

 

 

Now just for kicks watch this one ...

 

 

[Talk about a time capsule]

…. and a true detective needs to see the engine bay and the under belly too if it has indeed been sitting for that long and with low mileage one owner etc ….

[Interesting '53 Special with factory AC?]

… good points Pete but if you look real close at the rear widows corners one can just make out what appears to be the requisite runner tubes for the trunk mounted general electric a/c unit  ….

[November Bugle 2017]

… well in the long run and at the end of the day you can count on one thing …  in usually getting what you payed for … measured in effort, time  or money be it little or big  …  it's your call  … be it taxes , clubs or dreams ….

[364 motor brake-in]

Curious … why should one assume that to be true and what would the " designed - in " rational be for having Buicks running  hot back in the day … ?   True the dynaflow in the very early straight eights tended to run a little on the warm side and did over heat under strenuous conditions however it was found to be from a lack of proper trans cooling and that was addressed, so by the time the nailhead came into service it's cooling capacity was much different and improved and the dynaflow had improved fluid flow capacities as well … We believe where a lot of these stories came from is through bad radiator / coolant maintenance and quality of coolants used rather than engineering and capacity issues … For what it's worth and most relevant to this post, any of the 3 other 57 Buicks I have owned in the past any heating problems were from clogged radiators, choked corroded internal blocks and or bad water pumps.  But with that said and also for good measure attempt to separate the dynaflow trans cooling from the engine cooling system via an external front thick diesel pickup truck type  mounted trans cooler and see how that works for you

[Weird 57 PB Master Cylinder Leak]

.. good info Ben and very perspicacious of you … Lance no the third photo depicts the main torque seal that the shaft is inserted into and that rubber seal with the dental pick is there to insure complete back sealing of the aft portion of the rod shaft … as can be seen in the exploded layout these seals are located internally and set so as to ride along the shaft length in a series from inner to outer … the take home message is this unit can go for a very long length of years and function properly and safely with little chance of internal implosions and comprises as long as the fluid is changed regularly because as we all know it is hydroscopic and attracts atmospheric moisture … this cannot be said for a dual piston bore MC system and most likely IMO is why in the design of a piston bore systems it would be wise to separate the front and the back because of this increased wear potential but also to incorporate a proportioning valve to counter and balance front to rear actuations which the Moraine/Bendix system does not have or need to function properly ...

[Weird 57 PB Master Cylinder Leak]

 

… and to be a tad more accurate there is actually no internal piston that has seals on it in these period type Moraine or Bendix MC setups as contrasted by the  modern rubber ringed seal pistons in hydraulic systems found today  … with that revelation, there is however a solid plunger head and shaft used with no internal "bore" which displaces fluid in the MC chamber by it's mere presence & mass thus causing an equal displacement of fluid by the equal amount the plunger head replaces in mass of the "space" formally occupied by the fluid, and since one cannot compress a fluid in real terms the solid mass of the plunger takes this space up and displaces the fluid in an equal amount in equal terms of it's own mass whereby the fluid then takes the path of least resistance and is distributed throughout the braking component system lines and wheel cylinders upon application of the brake pedal which is connected directly to this MC plunger … to this end is however necessary to seal the shaft of this plunger since the head of the plunger has no bore to follow thus the construction of the Moraine or Bendix incorporates a series of rubber type plunger shaft seals couplers that are found set within the casting body of the MC ensuring any displaced fluid does not recourse itself back and thereby creates a seal in which the plunger head can adequately displace the MC chamber fluid out and throughout the system … if these seals begin to wear then the fluid will find it's way past these shaft seals and buildup inside the first of these machined recess area and this wire is a canary in the mine shaft alerting one that leakage is occurring …

 

… however with that said this series of seals which are large and thick are built into the body of the MC are position set in a 3-fold protection path found along the plunger shaft axis.  This is important and is a real good thing because it is actually in many ways better and safer than current rubber seal piston type plungers that follow a "cylinder bore" and push the fluid out with it's thin ring seals and bore and actually by necessity needed to be thinner but revealed in comparison by design to be weaker and more prone to wear and failure because it was riding in a wearing cylinder type tight bore than the construction found in these open non bore Moraine and Bendix MC's, something these MC's did not suffer from … In actuality the only real immediate type system failure which can only occur is if one of the rubber brake lines are compromised and has a major break …  the later incorporation of dual cylinder separated front/back chambers and helped to minimize the fear of a sudden lose of system fluid from either the front and back brake lines but the weakness built into the dual piston system is it's high rate of piston seal wear.  This fear of rubber line breakage while using the Moraine or Bendix MC can be minimized exponentially to little or no real concern by simply using metal sheathed rubber dot 4 approved break and axle hoses and changing your fluid every 2 years …

 

In conclusion, there then appears to be a much to do about nothing over verbalizing of the fear of losing your entire braking system in a period correct single line Moraine or Bendix system due solely to a sudden MC seal failure which  as explained is unfounded unlike that of the likely real possibility of a piston bore seal leak failure in a dual modern cylinder/bore seal type MC … in either case you still have your emergency brake to use …. 

[Front Fender Moulding Clips]

… broken inner lifter spring or damaged spring clamp clip … also now watch as water level in radiator drops over a couple weeks use …. leaking head gasket … ?

[Original Delco Shock PN & Catalog Numbers]

… we have been told that  the spirals were factory/dealer output as delivered and gave the perspective buyer at the dealer the soft calm ride they expected, however after 8K to 10k or so the owner then needed to replace with non spiral aftermarket delco's or the like … yes original NOS Spirals on a static show / museum car would be sufficient but not for everyday driving, there are a couple of outfits of which we are aware that can rebuild the spirals with modern insides etc but your right slapping on manufacture dated 1956 NOS spiral shock and then cruising with it would be a crap shoot at best … however the " Cool " factor is to have the spirals for the look and the modern internals and new oil  etc for longevity … best of both worlds .. but no gas shocks on a classic IF you are desiring a time capsule experience with you and your car ...

[Original Delco Shock PN & Catalog Numbers]

Can anyone who has or has access to an original old Delco Shock Absorber Catalog for at least the 50's which would list both the Delco Part Number & the Catalog Number either scan it and post it here for at least for my rides and perhaps as well post it in the library as this would be a great source to go to … For that matter a dedicated go to post that has all the Delco, Delco-Remy, A/C Delco, Champion etc old NOS parts catalogs would be invaluable … or if this already exits on this site somewhere then please put a link to it as I have not found it to date …. as I am not the best Kit Carson searcher either ...

 

With that rant out of the way … I am currently in need of the PN/Catalog numbers for both Delco Spiral Shocks front and rear and the Delco Pleasurizer Shocks front and rear for my 57's …. and as usual any crumbs of help of course would be most appreciated … thanks in advance - dave

 

[Bargains]

…. well my first dad bought a 54 Buick and loved it to his dying day, my second dad bought a 58 and swore it rode so well he could drive it to hell and back … we never doubted him so we waited & waited or his return … my third dad just had to have a big wide 60 and he always would say how he just loved how that fashionable clock sat on the dash kinda like a big ol egg laying on a bar … they tried in a timely fashion but just couldn't remove it after the accident …. my 4th dad was hip and just had to have a 65 Riviera with all that twisty torque and what with that big tree he really got twisted … however my mom on the other hand never like any of them …. but when it came to those cars she just had to have a Buick …..

 

Edit:  Oh, and btw bought my Caballero for $ 35.00 in the summer of 73 and all it needed was to have the reverse anchor replaced and the radiator cleaned and you could put an egg on the air cleaner and it just sat there while it idled … got me through college and then some  I paid $ 35.00 for it because when asked how much I had on me by the car lot  sales manager, it just so happened that was all I had on

me !!!! ... True story ….