idrjoe_sandiego
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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego
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Philip, you may be right about the angle involved, but after playing around with your images, i.e., photoshop flipping, rotating, etc.,it seems that the main difference is the "stalk" that extends the saddle from the compression wedge fitting. Apparently, the earlier DB top bows fold down tighter to the the body than the 29, negating the need for the extended stalk. I'm going to lower the bows on the car and see how far they actually stick out from the body when down. If they stick out a ways, it's likely that I would be making some major mods to get them to work. If you would indulge me for another day, I'll give you the final answer. If not, I understand. Also, the last time I purchased from down-under I got hit with a big bill ($75US) from the bank for the money exchange- what's the deal with that? Any idea what PayPal charges? May would be ok to post when you come here-any chance you'll visit San Diego? Love to meet fellow DB'ers! Joe
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There's a long winding thread going on here lately started by outlaw car man re: 1932 Dodge Brothers brakes,drums,rear axles,etc. So, when I was out in the back 40 looking in the junk pile, this caught my eye: a 1929 Dodge DA rear-end sitting right next to a spare 1932 Packard rear-end...Just a little difference... DB's juice brakes vs. Packard's mechanicals...the Packard drum contains THREE shoes! Getting these drums off was some fun too. After 3 days of soaking with penetrant, then heat, we finally applied a heavy duty drum puller with a 1" impact fed with 2 air hoses. And still NOTHING...Frustrated, we took a lunch break, and about a 1/2 hr. later BANG! Like A gunshot the drum popped! Nearly soiled myself!
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nearchoclatetown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't feel bad, my windowsmail quit working about a month ago. Had to switch to Comcastmail, it sucks. Won't let me send pics out of my gallery and blocks most pics in emails. Even the ones WITH clothes.</div></div>
Doug you kill me! And thanks Caddy for the computer help- I think you nailed it! I'm back in biz.
Keiser, do you suspect he may need a resleeve on the cylinders?
And OCM --Definitely DON'T test without the drum in place. You'll blow wheel cyl parts everywhere along with getting brake fluid in places you don't want brake fluid. Hopefully your shoes didn't get wet.
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Hi Phillip- I almost forgot that your Mon Mar 23 is our Sunday Mar 22! I have attached a pic of what the 29 DA top rests look like, but in the absence of access to an original pair, I think your repros could be made to work. So thanks, count me in for a pair as well. And it was good that you posted pictures, because I misread your first post and thought you were talking about the top bow sockets (second picture). So how do I pay you? Paypal or? Thx, Joe
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Sorry all for wasting your bandwidth with multiple pictures!! I tried using firefox instead of Internet Explorer and now I can see again! NOW I get it Doug!!...AND I have absolutely no idea where that Buick convertible picture came from... Heck with computers, I'm going back to the garage where I can really foul things up!
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nearchoclatetown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Idrjoe,I don't remember DB offering a vinyl top in white. Good advice on the brakes and DON'T use sillycone fluid.</div></div>
That's funny Doug! At first I was going "Huh?" but I then I realized the pictures still aren't there!! It's this stupid new McAfee Security Program blocking my sending or seeing pictures. If Anyone knows the right settings, lemme know... I'll try pics once more.
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Looks like problems with the pictures.. I'll re-post them.
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Hey OCM-glad to see your still at it!
Most people do use the brake spring pliers as pictured below as they are indeed somewhat safer to use than some random pliers. If you decide to use one of these items, at the very least get one of the type like in the second picture below that has a reversible hook AND a full-floating, padded foot to prevent damage to brake shoe friction material. Most people will gouge one or two chunks out of their new brake shoes attempting to use the former tool.
If your '32 Dodge Lockheed brakes are anything like the '29 DA (see last picture), the spring needs to be threaded thru a retainer loop then attached to a hook on the underside of the shoe. In my experience with this arrangement, the brake shoe pliers is all but useless to get the spring to attach to the nearly impossible to reach hook. Either you can't get the spring to come off that curly-cue on the pliers, or the spring hangs precariously while you fumble for a screwdriver to finish the job. (Retry, retry, retry).
What works for me first time, every time is to get a decent size Vice-grips and attach it FIRMLY (say it again-->FIRMLY!) to one end of the spring (at green arrow), and physically stretch the spring over the hook. It helps to have an assistant to hold the free shoe inward (at red arrow) while you do this. Using this method, you have complete control over the spring, you won't have any free-flyers or lost eyes, and you won't damage the friction material. These springs aren't that strong, but depending on your hand strength,you may decide to get a stronger assistant and you hold the shoe. Try my method on one side and use the old pliers method on the other. You will soon be a believer. And like Keiser says, don't lose any eyes--Always wear GOOD QUALITY safety glasses.
One more thing, if that car has been sitting undriven that long, make sure you really flush out all the old crud out of the brake lines, using air and fresh fluid. I normally replace the original lines and brass fittings with stainless steel lines (especially if your car has original copper lines). Replace the flexible rubber brake hoses, too. I guarantee these are past their service life and they are cheap insurance. Hopefully you are rebuilding the master cylinder, too. I think one of the worst things you can do with a collector car is a "partial" brake job. Unlike a modern system with a dual master cylinder, if you lose any part of your system, you will quickly be reduced to a Hail Mary and an emergency brake.
Happy Motoring! Joe
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Phillip- That is an excellent deal especially for us in the states, given the current exchange rate. I agree, in bronze this would be an easy cleanup. Any chance you could post a few pics with some dimensions-- I would like to try to see if these would work for my 1929 DA Phaeton. I had some made in polished SS, but they were duplicated from a 1929 Chrysler Phaeton. My plater lost my original sockets and the Chrysler was as close a match as I could get. Problem is that the radius of the socket and the radius of my new top bows are just a bit off. They'll work, but it would be ok with me if they were a closer match. Thanks, Joe
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Hi dbnz- I've got a few too many questions for you...Who is casting them for you, from what material are they casting them, how much $$, what kind of time frame to cast, and finally, who gets to do the final cleanup (e.g., polishing,tapping holes)? In my experience, the final cleanup can be a little or a BIG deal depending on the quality of the casting and material used). Sorry about the interrogation! Thanks, Joe
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One more thing- big assumption-- that you do have some reasonable amount of compression to start with, you would be advised to run a compression test first before using this idea. Naturally,if a squirt of oil in the cylinders serves to raise the compression any, this could only help.
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Reinstall the spark plugs with all nuts removed from the studs, ignition coil wire removed, turn over motor with a good strong battery and let the compression do the work. I've seen it work more than once.
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Yes, they are merged--In January,1995 LeBaron Bonney bought Hampton Coach.
Jason here's their website featuring all the different fabrics with explanations of the differences, colors and patterns. If you ask 'em nicely they'll send all the samples you want. http://www.hamptoncoach.com/fabrics.htm
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: John1918</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> "Use the retard lever, DUH"</div></div>
Oh, so that's why they call it that...
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Thanks Dave! You guys are the best.
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Mark Shaw-Looks like you scared Craig off the forum--no reply to my posts or PM's Joe
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My Dad recently picked this DB Tailight up from a Model A club auction...can anyone identify the year/body style? Thanks, Joe
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OCM- If the two DL's have the same engine and distributor as I assume they do, it sounds like someone has pulled the distributor and installed it 180 degrees out.
1)pull the #1 spark plug
2)rotate the engine by hand in the correct direction of rotation (same direction your starter motor turns the engine)
3)observe the #1 piston as it rises and falls
4)each time the #1 piston approaches the top of its travel AKA TDC or top dead center, you should see the flywheel (or damper) timing marks line up with timing arrow.
5)As you rotate the engine, notice that it takes TWO revolutions of the crankshaft for every ONE revolution the distributor rotor makes.
6)one these two crankshaft revolutions the #1 piston is at TDC on its exhaust stroke and the second crankshaft revolution the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
7) It is the compression stroke that is the key to positioning your rotor correctly.
8) bottom line, your rotor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug terminal when the #1 piston is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke--see vern's earlier post re: determining compression stroke.
9)if number 8 above is NOT TRUE then your distributor is 180 degrees out. You will need to pull the distributor to realign the body of the distributor and the rotor to their proper positions. Use your running DL to guide you on position of the body and follow the above instructions to correctly position the rotor. Make sure you reinstall the distributor hold down clamps. You will want to finalize your timing with your timing light once she is running again.
Kind of a long explanation, but as Doug pointed out, its hard to tell on these forums whatcha know and watcha donnow.
Hope this helps. Joe
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Doug ,if he were starting from scratch with no wires installed, sure, he would want to start with the timing marks at top dead center and and both valves closed (i.e., on the compression stroke) for the #1 cylinder. Then he would observe what distributor cap contact the rotor was pointing to. This is where plug wire #1 goes. The rest of the wires would be intalled in the 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order in the PROPER direction (CW or CCW- I believe it is CW on this motor).
But I think the original question was simply checking if the order of the wires was correct, (i.e., did he accidentally swap the position of two wires?). You see, in this case you can start at any point in the order and as long as the sequence is correct, the motor doesn't care.
If he reallly screwed up the wire swap and got the order correct but was off by 2-3 rotor contacts to start with, yes, he would have to go back to the beginning and do a "sanity-check" as they say in the electronics world.
Joe
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Hi Outlaw- Don't forget the pesky condensor! Substitute with known good one if you don't have a tester. Also, if all else fails, you may need to get down to basics and check your compression. Sounds like you have got spark, you have got fuel, but if you don't have good compression, you're gonna be out there in the garage fooling with this for a while.
Also, invest about $3.00 for a spark checker, it gives you a quantitative and visual estimate of your spark for the coil as well as the plugs and wires. With this little dandy you (usually) get a good ground with the aid of its strong alligator clip and the spark is contained in a small plastic tube so you don't have more fireworks than you were looking for.
One more note on firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 is the same as 5-3-6-2-4-1 is the same as 2-4-1-5-3-6. The motor doesn't care which number you start with as long as the numbers are in the correct sequence.
Joe
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Stefano, Your phaeton was originally sold in Buenos Aires, Argentina. That little brass plate is the name of the Importer and Dodge Brothers Dealer in Argentina. I have the same plate. See photos. You car was originally a Right hand drive and has been converted. Note the angled bracket attached to your frame just to the right of the transmission. This is where the brake and clutch pedals mount for a RHD. Factory Left hand drive vehicles don't have that bracket. The hole in the rear of your car body is for the top bow rests. Photos attached. I don't have these but if we can find a willing owner who would allow us to pull a mold off theirs, we can have them cast in stainless steel. Also see the attachments regarding Fevre and Basset, the dealer. Hopefully you can read Spanish, if not, let me know and I can help you with translating it. Their story is very interesting. Keep up the good work, you'll have us all beat to the finish line!
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Lenny How about some photos?
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Jason, I checked the frame numbers on a DA frame I have with its toeboard number-- Vern is correct, those numbers should and do match. See the attached photo showing the "advertised" location of the VIN on the right side frame rail and the "secret" VIN # on top of the frame rail (on this frame the top # isn't stamped very deeply, but it is definitely there and indeed matches the toeboard VIN).
One more point on the DA frames you mentioned, re: only being one frame for the DA. I have two DA frames, and they are very different in several ways (one is RHD and the other is LHD).
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1930</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Joe I think you might have first hand knowlege on the crash vehicle data plate, isnt that you sitting in the passengers seat taking your new dodge out for a test drive??</div></div>
Jason, You are right...I am sitting in the passenger seat...and on closer inspection, I believe that was YOU in the DRIVER's seat!!!
I'm Really Going To Adjust My Steering Now. Really.
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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If you can in fact, physically rotate the gear due to absolute symmetry, (i.e., no keyways, gears cut symmetrically, etc.) it should be no problem. However you will have to determine how much of your slop is due to the worm wheel VERSUS how much is from the other possible sources of slop for instance:
1) worn worm gear
2) worn upper and lower bearings/races/thrust bushings on the steering (worm gear) shaft
3) worm wheel shaft bushing wear
4) trueness of the steering shaft itself.
Clearly, rotating the gear is only going to remove one of many potential sources of the slop. (That is, if it doesn't serve to make matters worse somehow). Have you looked at your manual and CAREFULLY gone thru the adjustment procedures step by step? They must be followed to the letter and ever so slight adjustments can make ALOT of difference. When the box is out of the car on the bench, you can really feel the subtleties.