idrjoe_sandiego
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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego
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Jason You asked Stefano to verify "2221591 stamped on the head".. No need, as that is the # on his body data plate, look at his firewall picture.
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Another data point: one of my DA motors has
Engine # H126-387
Head # 26028-210100
I have a couple more to check at another location.
On Danes DA deluxe sedan...
Head # 84827-210100
Engine # H 1011107 (something's wrong with this #)
Many "date-code" systems use the first numbers being the day of the year (i.e., start at #1 and end at #365) and the last two numbers the year. This theory was taking shape until I saw Dane's and Jack's head date-code numbers (84827 & 84027). However, these #'s both end in 27, so its possible they changed the code scheme in 28. Obviously we need more data.
I read about another Chrysler casting number scheme where the date code was a 10,000 day calendar which started at day #1 and ended at day #10000 which works out to cover dates for about 27 years! (This is clearly not what we are seeing in the DA heads as the year would be redundant). They apparently used this scheme in late 40's early 50's as I recall.
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Craig- What's your take on the "cushioned" ball mount? Some car haulers I've towed seem to want to "rythmically jerk" the truck (F-250) especially when towed empty. One trailer supply suggested a ball mount with a tighter clearance on the pin, however, I feel this would only increase the effect. Thanks, Joe
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Jason, I think I have discovered the answer to your "NO-START" condition. Try checking your Spark plug wires with an ohm-meter. Any time you have a problem, I'm at your service, just ask!
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FOR SALE: 1929 Dodge DA SEDAN All Original! Barn-Fresh Only 100 original miles. Excellent #1 Condition. Except for a minor hood-cowl-roof-bumper-door-fender-bender, all it needs is a light 'Freshening-Up'. With an excellent set of tools you could have this buffed out in an afternoon. Steering pulls a little to the right, but other than that, it's SMOOTH. Horn works killer and the rear bumper is flawless! Get it now or its going on eBay with some photoshopped pictures. Price $15,000 Firm. Call Joe (AKA test crash dummy).
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That's Reaally a hoot Jason!
How about captions for the photo...like...
"What's Your Dad Gonna say?
-or-
"Mark my words, 80 years from now they won't have telephone poles!"
Feel free to add your caption below!
P.S. > Yea, I'll admit it, that's me, the test crash dummy!
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&2caddy, You might try 12-24, I know, oddball size, but they used plenty of them on my Dodge. Joe
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keiser31- I agree 100% with what you're saying. The 1929 L Chrysler Imperial is not in the same ballpark, league, division, or game as the DA. Just to clarify (not to disagree with you) my point was not to compare the two VEHICLES, but to simply to compare the RATIO of the various body styles produced. These production ratios MIGHT have had some common denominator in the sales and marketing departments of the Chrysler Corp.(where decisions like 'How Many of What Kind' are made). Obviously, in the absence of any hard data, EVERYTHING is SPECULATION.
So I was sitting aroung the house the other day SPECULATING (actually taking a break from the Gemmer steering box I was completely rebuilding) and I did the math.
The RATIO of 41 Sport Phaeton bodied 1929 L Chrysler Imperials to the total 2506 of 1929 L Chrysler Imperials (all body styles) produced in 1929 (41/2506)=1.63%. (known and published facts).
The total # of 1929 DA's (all body styles) is approx. 83,000. Using the same 1.63% ratio MIGHT suggest a number like 1353 DA Sports Phaetons produced in 1929.(SPECULATION). Your guess of 200 Phaetons produced in 1929 indicates a ratio of 0.24% (less than a quarter of 1%)!!
And just to belabor the point check out this website from RM Auctions showing the SIX-figure sales prices with photos of the GORGEOUS Chrysler Imperials in the 29-34 era. Guaranteed to make you drool. (clean up your mess afterwards!) Joe
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Well thanks for trying. The closest I could find is the following attachment about Chrysler Imperial production figures around the same year. If this is any indication (ratio-wise), they apparently didn't make alot of DA Phaetons.
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What, my attachment didn't attach. Try again. (File size too large).
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Here's a page out of a 1931 Leterstone Catalog in Chicago that sold Dodge/Chrysler parts/accys including the Kingston Vacuum tank for only $2.75 or $2.50ea if you needed 5 of 'em. I'll take 5 Thank you.
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Jason, you are very lucky, because, as I understand it, those rare data plates were used by the factory to designate the test-crash vehicles.
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This forum is always such a fountain of information...Any chance anyone has production figures for the 1929 Dodge DA Phaeton, both domestic and exports? Thanks guys! Joe
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Has anyone tried replacing the sector shaft bushings with needle roller bearings? The Ford Model A people do this regularly on their Gemmer boxes and add a modern neoprene seal on the outboard end of the sector shaft to keep the garage floor cleaner. It looks possible, but comparing the Dodge sector housing to the Ford, the latter's casting is bit larger in diameter leaving plenty of meat once its been bored out. My new policy: Measure three times, ask for the expert's opinion twice, CUT ONCE! Thanks for your input. Joe
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db1926 has the correct solution for your needs...part a-2018 at Snyder's is a complete set of the riveting tools for $25. Here's their tool instructions:
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/uploads/A2018rivetingtool-4976.pdf
Joe
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Question for Bill W. >> Thanks for sharing your amazing wealth of knowledge on these cars; any chance you have production figures for the 1929 Dodge DA Phaeton, both domestic and exports? Thx, Joe
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Sorry The eBay link I used doesn't seem to work when pasted into this forum... but you can see the '29 Dodge DA Phaeton using eBay advanced search for Item number: 140288827358
Joe
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Big Mark, I don't know if you saw this 1929 Phaeton on eBay, check it out. WARNING: its just loaded with incorrect features! I think his reserve=$25K. You'd probably need another $10k just to straighten it out!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Phaeton-TOUR-BEAUTIFUL-1929-DODGE-PHAETON-T
OURING-VERY-RARE_W0QQitemZ140288827358QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=ite
m140288827358&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A64%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3
A1318
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What you have is a very common problem on I-beam front axles and it's known as caster shimmy. It usually occurs after hitting a hole or bump at relatively slow speeds and can be extremely disconcerting to both the driver and especially the passenger(s). It's probably best to slow to a stop, but if you are brave you can accelerate out of it, too. Obviously it's best to fix the problem and soon. Take your car to a qualified frame and axle shop, preferably one that deals with larger trucks (which still use the I-beam axle) and they will place some caster shims like the ones in the enclosed picture between your axle and the leaf springs. Think of caster like front bicycle wheel with its long fork jutting out ahead of you. This is what allows you to "Look Ma, no hands!" Ask the shop if they have any caster shims in stock and if you get that "deer in the headlights" look, leave that shop ASAP.
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Hey Stefano from Italy! Great find! I am restoring one of these cars also. It's definitely a 1929 Dodge DA Sports Phaeton. I've included a few pictures to make it easier for you to find the serial numbers on the car and I have a couple questions for you. On the second picture near the left rear quarter panel you have a small chrome piece sticking out just to the rear and above the fender. I have never seen this before... Do you know what that is? Second question: just above and to the rear at the top rim of the body, there is a 3/4 inch (19mm) hole in the body. This is a mounting hole for the top rests (the top bows rest on these when the top is down)... Do you have the top rests for your vehicle and if so can you post a picture of them? Last question: do you have any side curtains that you could post a picture of? If you have any questions about this car, I can probably help you out. Thanks, Joe
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Skogen- Pull back the carpet or rubber mat on the passenger side to expose the VIN plate attached to the wooden toeboard. Here you will probably find the actual VIN which is probably incorrect on your paperwork. These tin ID tags are notoriously hard to read and your "VIN DAS9937" is more than likely DA59937. There is definitely no "S" after the "DA" in the actual VIN on this vehicle. My 1929 DA Sports Phaeton has an actual VIN of DA59129, but some DMV worker somewhere misread the final digit, so my paperwork says DA59128. By the way, if your VIN plate is missing or illegible, you will find the VIN stamped on the passenger side frame rail just to the rear of the rear front spring mount. (i.e., Just to the rear of the "dog-bone"). You might have to scrape some paint to find it.
Joe
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My cousin, a firefighter in Chicago, sent me these photos of the recent (October 2008) fire at the old Packard Plant in Detroit.
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Here's a mystery door handle for you car sleuths. Came on a 1929 Dodge DA Sedan, but it is not correct. The number on the reverse of the escutcheon is 66046. Thx, Joe
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I know you guys are good detectives. Any ideas on this bumper? It came with a car I bought, but doesn't belong to it. There are no markings on it but it sure is pretty. Hopefully the pix show up, I've never tried posting pictures.
data plate
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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OOps, sorry I didn't see caddy already pointed this out.. that's what happens when you don't look at page 2 of the thread before replying.