JanZverina
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Posts posted by JanZverina
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Thanks Tom and Bill, any contact info is much appreciated. If I understand correctly, is the stainless trim and fuzzy sold as a single assembly? I'll also be sure to mention the straight vs. curved piece.
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Hi folks,
I'm in need of a very nice to excellent stainless trim piece (identified in the attached pix) due to some careless dings made prior to my stewardship (honestly!) It may be a 1963-65 Riv item - someone may know for sure. I'm getting ready to remove the outer door skins to take care of some rattles in the window channel areas. I have a full rubber kit from Rubber The Right Way that's been taking up space for too long, so it's time to tackle this job. Any leads appreciated!
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Just me, but I have used SEM products with very good success but found the Rub N Restore formula to be better for actual seating surfaces. As I understand it, it's an acrylic paint (not a dye), but not the same class as the thicker urethane aerosolized paints. It can be lightly sprayed or applied with a slightly dampened sponge (which I did), and at least on leather, has a more natural feel and is so far wearing well.
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Hi Jeff,
Rub 'n' Restore https://rubnrestore.com/ was very helpful with an exact match for my '63 with white leather trim (748) so I'm sure they could match a sample in leather or vinyl for your color. Leatherique is also an option but I've been very happy with RnR's service and products.
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Hi John,
Just a suggestion, but maybe take some good photos in various lights and send it to Rub N Restore. They may advise that you recolor that area to lighten it a bit before using a sealer or conditioner. Even a close match may do the trick as the top of the back seat will usually be a different shade than the rest due to various lighting conditions, exposure, shadows, etc. I haven't applied the conditioner primer/sealer on my seats. IIRC RNR said it wasn't needed after I mentioned that I don't think anyone ever sat back there, so it certainly doesn't get heavy use!
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Hi Jolly_John,
Complete details are on their website but yes, the color is generally applied using a slightly damp sponge, recoating as needed in my case as I was using a very light color and the seat had darkened a bit over 58 years. It dries pretty quickly for a recoat. Finishing a complete panel or insert is probably best, as you might prefer to color match at a seam.
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@Ed: Leatherique is a dye and I have used it on an parts of an older Jag XJ6 sedan interior, so that's an option also worth exploring.
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Hi John,
The Rub N Restore folks are very helpful so they could provide guidance. If you're looking to refinish the lower cushion to remove some of the scratches, they could help with a custom match color-wise, which will cost extra. In my case, the color I needed was between Marine White and Ivory, so I ordered two 8 oz. bottles and mixed smaller batches to the proper shade. You may be able to do the same with their standard colors such as Red Chile and something else. The sealer would be applied afterward if needed.
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@Ed: Thanks for the tip! I'll take a look.
@protrash63: The front seats were redone very well (and to the factory pattern) sometime before I purchased the car in 2013 and they too have yellowed with age and of course sun exposure. This is probably true with other interior colors, but it seems that every white interior component yellows with age at a different rate. One component that yellowed noticeably are the large hard plastic panels directly beneath the full-length front door armrests. As they're molded in color, I used some 1500/then 2000 grit sandpaper followed by a good plastic polish to get a better consistent match, which was my goal across all the key interior components.
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I thought some of you might be interested in a recent project I undertook to improve the look of the white leather rear seats in my 1963 Riv, part of the uplevel trim option 748. The original hides naturally yellowed over time, and the previous owner used some awful bright white vinyl paint, which had to be removed with reducer. Rub N Restore https://rubnrestore.com/ in Colorado helped me blend a matching color after sending me sample swatches. Their product is an acrylic finish (not a dye) but different from thicker urethane aerosolized paints, which is why one can get an even result with lighter coats. Attached are some before and after pictures. (The little triangular piece at the top of the seat backs cover some sun damage near at the center seams that couldn't be repaired easily.) It sure looks a lot better than before for a 58 year-old Riv!
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Thanks Ed and protrash. More curious than anything else!
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Definitely metal.Just curious if other ROA/BCA members have seen such markings, possible done as some kind of identifier during assembly, etc.
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Apologies, I wasn't clear. I was wondering if the actual marks on the inner rear fender hump were read from a certain angle.
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Hi Ray,
Thanks - But how are you reading/decoding it? By that I mean upside down?/# of weeks?
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I've been doing some work on the rear seats and package shelf areas of my '63 Riv and came across this interesting weld that looks like some kind of assembly line marking. Has anyone seen something similar? Mine is not an early build - it has the ribbed aluminum instrument panel trim.
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I had a sizeable leak on my Dynaflow (63 Riv), especially after the car sat for more than a week. Turned out to be some loose bolts on the converter just under the flyweel housing, and a small gasket on one of the two accumulator valves. Nothing serious. Oh, and you may want to avoid synthetic ATF, which is thinner and can leak past some gaskets. Dex 3 is good, according to a recommended tech here in San Diego who knows his Dynaflows.
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To Seafoam65: Maybe I missed it, but do you have a url to the 15" blades and blade holders that you would recommend?
Thanks,
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Sold to a fellow BCA member. Thanks!
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Hi folks,
I'd like to see these three manuals (see above) go to someone who can use them or pass them along to someone who can. I'm open to offers, excluding mailing costs. Please PM me.
Kind regards,
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I finally had a chance to measure the trans dipstick - 21 inches from tip to cap. So thanks again, XframeFX.
My Riv sat for one week in the garage and hallelujah, no leaks!
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This was never answered - 21" Long.
Thanks, XframeFX - Much appreciated!
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(Almost one month later)
An update on my Dynaflow woes with my '63 Riv: I picked up the car yesterday from the trans shop. TelRiv again gets the brass ring, as several leaks were indeed from the converter bolts. Also leaks from the accumulator seals. The shop kept the car sitting for several days just to make sure they caught everything. The other thing I learned - and I'm sure many of you know this already - is that synthetic ATF, which was recommended when I had the trans rebuilt 5 years ago - will leak past any seals faster than Dex III, etc. If anyone in the San Diego area is looking for a shop that knows their way around older transmissions, let me know.
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Having new carpet installed in our house meant first cleaning out the far reaches of some closets. In the process I unearthed my set of original 1960 factory service manuals used during happy ownership of a 1960 Electra 4719 sedan before making room for a '63 Riviera. This includes the Chassis and Body manuals as well as the Preliminary Chassis Service Manual. These are not reprints, and are used but in good condition. The Chassis Manual has a loose binding but has all the pages. (Pictures below.) Asking $75 for the set plus shipping from San Diego. I'd like to see them go to a good home! Feel free to PM me.
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Related to this thread, for those of you who are running an Edelbrock in place of an AFB or 4GC/Quadrajet and may not start your Riv for a couple weeks or more, pouring a small amount of gas from a small clean container into the forward barrels and then closing the choke butterfly either manually w/the linkage or one press of the accelerator pedal always does the trick, letting the starter crank a few times to circulate oil but reducing excessive cranking. Edelbrocks seem to be known for this. Mine is a 1406 on a stock '63 401.
Looking for upper door panel stainless trim, '63 Riv / driver's side
in Buick Riviera
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Thanks Bill, messages sent to Mark and Repop. Will let you know how I make out.