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Lookin' Good Mr. Earl! So should we presume the carb and overheating (and maybe transmission/torque converter) issues are now resolved?

@JohnD1956 both engines listed on those pages are non Buick. Top is the Olds 403 (R, K code) while the bottom showing the open throttle switch is a Pontiac 301 (Y code). Keep in mind it’s also a 78 manual not a 79. The Y series picture was the only one showing the radial a/c compressor and associated wiring. I guess in 78 the 403 still had the A6 compressor, although a Cali car could have been equipped differently I guess

I think it was brought up earlier, but have you ruled out exhaust issues (plugged cat or broken baffle in the muffler?) to explain some of the power and bogging issues? We had a plugged cat in a 76 Pontiac wagon and it would not climb hills either. I would also be looking at vacuum lines and the condition of the coil as well, as problems there could explain some of the symptoms.

Different motor too. From the chassis service manual, here’s the diagram showing connections with radial compressor. Note the ground is shown on the mounting bracket for the compressor, so I’m sure the clip on your harness is just a clip to keep the harness in place.

Is that connection on the passenger side of engine behind the compressor? Looks like there should be two connections there, the smaller of which should be the hi-blower connection. I don’t think that clip is a ground but I don’t see it on the schematic. I don’t have the wagon here otherwise I’d go out and snap a pic. I might be able to get over to the car in a day or so.

Wow, that is amazing @JohnD1956 there wasn’t near that much room on my 1997 Lumina! Luckily they had titanium plugs that supposedly lasted 60k miles. The 3100 had two “dog bones” like the one in the picture next to your distributor block. Both had to be disconnected to roll the engine forward. Super fun for the neighbors to watch me attempt it!

Hi John, those rear 3 spark plugs are a real pain! For the 3.1 in my old Chev Lumina I had to unbolt the top engine mounts, put the car in gear (of course without it running) and let the car roll forward to tilt the engine forward. Still had to lay across and feel for the plugs but had just enough room to get my hands and tools back there. Have fun!

The 258 is the factory setting for the light which should be measured close to the t-stat housing. Would be hotter at the heads. On mine with the temp reading 195-200 with an infrared thermometer at the t-stat housing, the heads are reading 220-225 if memory serves correctly.

I’ve got a 195 degree T-stat as that is what’s recommended by the factory. On the 403, the fan clutch engagement should be at 190

Yes the 258 appears to apply to all series. The discussion in other areas in this section break the issues out according to series but this section does not.

That's good news! Now to track down that temperature issue! With a temp of 265, that bulb should be on all the time!

Ok here’s the page from the chassis service manual (I didn't bother with the other page for the symptom of "Hot" indicator not lit when cranking engine, and suggesting the bulb is burnt out). Not super helpful but seems to indicate you have an open circuit (which you now know, or a defective ignition switch, and confirms the light should come on at 258 degrees. Let me know if you want some pictures of the schematic drawing for the electrical circuits around this bulb. Not likely the only issue but have you checked the fan clutch? Mine gave me a lot of issues before I replaced it. How does the t-stat look? I did install a new radiator shortly after I got my car, but not because it was overheating, it was leaking and the mounting point for the cap broke off.

I find the pledge won't last too long, and tends to wash off with rain or normal cleaning, so I don't think you'll get 3 months out of it without reapplying. That's why I only apply it before a show or other times where I want the car to look particularly good!

I’m with John on this, check the wiring. I’ve noticed cracked and brittle insulation around the sender so I’ve dealt with that, but no issue such as you’re reporting. @avgwarhawk is quite right, I don’t think those lights are designed to come on until extreme temps are reached (I recall reading somewhere it was 270 degrees). I haven’t installed a separate gauge but I do complete spot checks with an infrared thermometer so I know where my car typically runs (195-200 is usual temp at thermostat housing on hot days under load with my thermostat).

Well I’m not going to try that... 🤔

All the best to Rita! you figure out the a/c?

An 8-foot length of 1/2” pex should be less than $4 so it’s a pretty economical and quick fix.

I haven’t noticed any ill affects with the pledge, but I don’t use it often (not more than 1-2 times/year. I’ll try the 303 protectant. On the strikers, the missing bushings are exactly the problem. Purchase some 1/2 in pex water pipe, cut into 3/4 length then slice longitudinal on one side so you can slip over the striker. Lube with some white lithium grease and voila, fixed doors! Once I had the pex, all 4 doors took about 10min.

Hi Lamar, I usually wash and dry it normally, then use good ‘ol lemon pledge. Spray it on and rub it in with shop towel. If you have sections that are really faded out, one of the guys on the station wagon forums suggested a bit of motor oil on a rag and rub it in. I’ve tried it on my tailgate and it works ok but I’m not super confident in that long term. I also use a sharpie to fill in and small divets from chips it’s accumulated over the years (but don’t tell anybody) 😃 How do your doors shut? There’s an easy fix for that too! Safe travels to the Nationals!

A few years ago I purchased a set of Matrix Multi-mile tires with a white wall. The white wall is slightly wider than the Hankook tires. Pete Phillips had put me on to them after he purchased a set. I really like them on the Electra and they are/were cost effective. I’ll have to google to see if they are still available.

A little late to this thread, but I have my wagon a test run, and it will in fact drop down to a passing gear above 35 mph or even above 55 mph. It sure makes a bunch more noise, but I'm not sure if accelerates any faster, and seems to be best for dropping a gear while climbing a long gear. I do have the TH350 and 3.23 rear end (non-posi) and the 350 engine. Seems like an adjustment on yours is in order.

Whitewalls or blackwalls?

Was able to get the wagon out again for an early Mother’s Day trip. Drove up what we call the “Sea to Sky” highway to the community of Squamish which is at the end of Howe Sound (ocean inlet) and surrounded by mountains. There is a nice brew pub there that my mother likes and she very much enjoyed the drive. Only about a 100 mile round trip but my total this year is now around 350 miles. Baby bites...

I have to pass on my thanks to @JohnD1956 and indirectly to @Pete Phillips for the events of this past weekend. Apparently, Collectible Automobile magazine is doing a feature on 77-79 Full size Buick’s, and they were needing shots of an Estate Wagon. The magazine called Pete, Pete messaged John and as John no longer has his EW, John messaged me. Needless to say I was thrilled and the editor was in contact with me on Thursday. He arranged for a local photographer to shoot the car, and that happened on Sunday. It was quite the turnaround and led to me spending 6 hours detailing the car for the photo shoot over Saturday and Sunday morning. I never thought anything like this would happen to this car (which I still use for camping and lumber runs) but thanks to the friendships within this club, it has! Looking forward to seeing the article in the Dec 2019 issue! I had to apologize to the photographer and mention this is an “archive” car so I can’t paint under the hood, but at least could get most things shiny. Here are a couple of shots I took as the photographer did his thing yesterday.

4BR35 is the Estate Wagon model number. There was no separate LeSabre or Electra Estate Wagon, just Estate Wagon and Estate Wagon Limited. "X" Engine was the Buick 350, I believe you should have the "K" code Oldsmobile 403 in your EW.