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Posts posted by TexRiv_63
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Even with all the language that is a smoking deal for someone who is handy.
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Is it possible to very carefully insert a pry bar at the door bottom from inside or outside and shift the door slightly upward while trying to open it? Old lube plus sagging can bind the latch mechanism.
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Don from Texas. I'm 75 years old and have been obsessed with cars since I was 12. I grew up in the Northwest suburbs of Chicago but have been a Texan since 1992. I have owned 79 cars in my life of which only nine were imports. The largest share (42) were GM cars, I have owned 7 Buicks including my one current hobby car, a 1960 LeSabre 2 door hardtop. I have done just about every type of repair and restoration task with the exception of transmission rebuilding and upholstery. I still do what I can on my car but am limited by age and mileage. I love old mechanical things and automobilia, collecting radiator emblems, data plates, and threaded hubcaps. I am also an old movie buff and recently fulfilled a lifelong dream of acquiring a Mitchell 35MM Hollywood camera with all the accessories. I have been an AACA and forum member since 2007 and sign in every day as this is the most eclectic and knowledgeable car information source on the Internet.
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Don't know how I missed this, what a nice original! I agree with all of the previous posts, preserve rather than restore. That will clean up to be a gem.
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I agree it's aftermarket, I've never seen that rotating ring feature before.
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Very pretty car, probably more rare than the Starfires. If the price is really $11,000 that will move quickly. Just don't drive it anywhere with those terrible tires!
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That is weird theft damage, the thief must have been shopping for the pieces he needed to finish his own Wildcat project!
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I still need this part!!!
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The 68 I restored back in the 80s was originally similar to this color and had this houndstooth cloth interior. I'm sure the paint is new and the missing trim makes me suspicious of how much rust repair was done.
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Wow, thanks guys, I appreciate it.
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I have no first hand experience but you have to remove the wheel centering pin and attaching bolt in back. The front aluminum drums are worse, the rivets have to go as well. I'll let someone who has done it chime in now.
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I've had a few under $100 but the best was a 1966 Mustang coupe for $30 cash. 6 cylinder automatic, barely running. I rebuilt the carb, tuned it, put a muffler on, did a little body work and flipped it for a surprising profit.
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21 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said:
Thanks. I saw the Monroe listing but not the AC Delco. Only rear shocks, no fronts listed. Ben Bruce, why are you laughing?
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Those seats are beautiful, great work!
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If your purpose is to mount custom or later model wheels it is not as simple as that.
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No response? I could use a little help here.
Shopped around for shocks and it appears the '60 Buick is not popular with most vendors. No listings at KYB, Rock Auto, Amazon, etc. Only rears shown on Ebay, Monroe, and Rare Parts, but out of stock. The only place that has full listings is CARS / Old Buick Parts. Has anyone here bought shocks for a B60 from them? -
22 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
New set of coil springs and shock. BTW, it appears your axle is leaking gear oil.
The leak has been fixed. Why would I want to replace the springs?
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Back after 2 1/2 months. I got my Tolltag and have driven the car numerous times on the highway. There is a slight imbalance in the tires at 70 mph, probably due to all the weights on the back, but it is not really a problem. I have made no other progress on my to-do list but have tried to drive the car once a week if I can. I have noticed that the new tires have not improved the ride, specifically on sharp bumps. This car came with "Cure Ride" shock absorbers front and back, a name from the past and I have no idea how old they are. Compared with all the problems I had on my 66 Monaco initially this car rode great with no floating, bottoming out or cornering issues, but it always took sharp bumps pretty hard. I put some of that down to the 12 year old tires but it seemed to get worse. The new tires did not help, the sharp bump reaction is downright harsh and it is getting worse. I am thinking I need new shocks. I do not want a heavy duty "performance" or "handling" ride but rather a very smooth factory style feel befitting the slow cruiser this car is. I would welcome any recommendations and would especially value anyone's first hand experience with shocks on their 1960 Buick, TIA
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This car came with "Cure Ride" shock absorbers front and back, a name from the past and I have no idea how old they are. Compared with all the problems I had on my 66 Monaco this car rode great with no floating, bottoming out or cornering issues, but it always took sharp bumps pretty hard. I put some of that down to the 12 year old tires but it seemed to get worse. After recently buying new tires there was no improvement and the sharp bump reaction is downright harsh. I am thinking I need new shocks. I do not want a heavy duty "performance" or "handling" ride but rather a very smooth factory style feel befitting the slow cruiser this car is. I would welcome any recommendations and would especially value anyone's first hand experience with shocks on their 1960 Buick, TIA
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Crazy expensive for a 390 automatic IMO.
For Sale: 1964 Oldsmobile Starfire 2dr Hardtop - $16,000 - Buckeye, AZ - Not Mine
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
Nice looking car, price is about what I sold my 63 Starfire for a few years ago, although my car was a lot more loaded. The seats are definitely NOT original or leather, which they should be. The 64 has a lot of hard to find diecast chrome trim and I would want to see pictures of its condition. That horrible trunk and bald spare don't help the sales effort.