BrentS

Interesting........... Yes, I'm sure the list is very long, for the discussion on the operating temperature (or changing temperature) for internal combustion engines. Condensation in the oil, was not one that I've heard yet. I'd be interested to read that post.

I agree with you padgett on just about everything...........except, my high idle issue problem stopped as soon as I got the normal operating temps back out of the 160's. So, I'm not so convinced on the "anything over 150F", however, I guess it's moot for either a 180 or 195 T-stat. Correct, tightening the hideous one-bolt design does not appear to affect leaking, but I strongly believe it affects leaking past the T-stat, resulting in the ever-plaguing cold temp issue. I very very closely watched the opposite end of the T-stat flange creep up, as I tightened the one bolt; it was not evenly clamping down on the entire T-stat flange. But, thanks to this awesome forum, most should know about this potential problem.

Ok, thanks Dave. Has anyone used green lights? I would think green would match better with the rest of the interior lights, no?

Yeah, I'm still soooo surprised that engineers would ever come up with a one-bolt T-stat flange/elbow................of any kind. Being that there's an o-ring that's installed in a groove on the elbow, it may not leak......but it sure doesn't tighten down properly with only one bolt. Oh well, I consider it a lesson learned for myself. I've also come across performance information regarding engine temp...........in internal combustion engines.....the cooler you run the coolant system, the more heat flow you have into the combustion chamber, with resulting loss of power. I'm sure it's a small amount; just as small as the extra life you may gain out of your tranny by running it at 180 in lieu of 195. Just thinking while I type......

Good luck finding the top gasket. I couldn't find it. And GM wants you to order a Qty of 10 (25535939?). Anyway, sounds like you're having the exact problem I was just having. I made my own "top gasket", and now my car is pegged at 192F. Love it. I went back to the original 195, too. Cool temps sound inviting, but I also like running engines at the temp they were designed for. I had high-idle issues when my car was at 160F-ish, too, when the T-stat was "floating around". I've also learned about "flame front extinguishing" and incomplete combustion, etc. etc, back in the old Engines course I took in college. Plus, there's lots of warnings in the marine industry about running too cool, when people think they can remove their T-stats..........so, 195 seems to be working Ok for me.

Is there a consensus on the best replacement LED strip to use, when doing this repair/upgrade? Or, at least pros & cons for the different strips? I see one write-up shows "Pilot Automotive #CZ181B", which appears to be 15" long; and another write-up on the Reattaowner.com shows some 24" long LED strip made by Bell (part #?). Thanks!

I would say that the mass airflow sensor is a likely culprit in a miriad of running, idling, and starting issues. But, maybe some of the experts will soon chime in for ya, and possibly provide some troubleshoot suggestions.

Not sure about other owners, but my '89 doesn't run really smooth, either. But, I think it runs "Reatta normal". Mine goes up and down 50, maybe 75 rpm when idling. p.s. Nice name Brent

I've experience similar issues with various GM cars. If I go to accelerate in a turn at aroud 20-30 mph (like on a highway "cloverleaf" entrance/exit), it almost feels as if the car is in Neutral, until I straighten-out. My '88 Olds Cutlass Sup, '93 Park Ave, and I believe my '89 Reatta might have done it occasionally, as well. I don't recall my '99 Grand Prix doing it....although occasionally that does do some "funky shifting".

When my mommy was still the owner of my Reatta, the one time the drive through accidentally gave her regular soda (instead of diet), she spilled the whole thing all over the center console. What a sticky mess. I hate regular soda! (or, "pop" for you mid-westerners) The soda got into that switch module, and messed it up. I disassembled the whole module, cleaned out the sticky syrup...put some grease lube on the moving parts of the switch......and they both work fine. I recall that it wasn't hard to disassembly that Fog/Lamp Retract switch module.

My "classic auto" policy has all of the typical restrictions; mileage, garage, pleasure/car show drives only, and they needed to see that my wife and I each owned another car. But, for the "pleasure drive" clauses: if you actually got into an accident going to a store, or the like, just don't describe the trip as an "errand"; say you were on a "pleasure drive", and were making a stop to.... Even if you were going to a car show, they have to expect you to be able to stop in a quick-e-mart to get a cup of coffee, or something. If the accident occurs in your work's parking lot............uh oh.

Well, I finally did it....I changed the policy on my '89 to a "classic auto" policy. So, my full-coverage premium goes down from about $700 to $260 for the year. But, now I can only put 3K miles per year on it. But I don't think that's much of an issue, because the Reatta is now the "third car" for my wife & I. We were lucky enough to get a free SUV from her parents......just in time for the baby that's coming 12/30/09.

Low voltage (12V) DC systems mixed with age, weather elements, and vibration...........and you have a recipe for problems. Add saltwater to the mix.......and we boat owners are even that much more aware of how challenging an electrical system can be. I had a battery fail, by leaking acid through a crack in the battery's mounting terminal. The acid was corroding the battery cable's bolt, that screwed into the terminal. Voltage readings all showed good..........that problem took sooooo long to figure out.

Yeah, that makes more sense mongeonman.............there's NO WAY a car battery would last even close to a week with single-digit amp draws.....NO WAY. I have group 27 batteries in my boat, and I can drain one in approx 10 hours with a 5 to 10 Amp draw (refrigerator, radio, etc.). That's why I have the second battery to start-up the boat, at the end of a long day.

FYI: Every time you drain your battery, you wipe-out a good percentage of its life. Also, storing a battery while not fully charged, shortens the life considerably.

Interesting. I've had some pretty annoying tire leaks, usually related to the bead. Seems to always be at the damn crimped-on wheel weight location. I use stick-on weights now.

That's why I've been using GM blades; because they seem to hang-up less on my car, than aftermarkets. It looks like they're still available: 22155381 That's the GM number that I had for 'em.

My driver side wiper hangs-up a bit on the black (Aluminum?) molding at the bottom of the windshield. The molding is off the glass a little bit, on the driver's side.

Interesting.........I did the rear brakes a few months back, and simply pushed the piston back with a piston tool (i.e. c-clamp style). It seemed to push in, just as any other caliper. Maybe mine aren't "self adjusting" anymore??? I just followed the service manual, which did not seem to describe turning the piston, or tuning this adjustment bolt. They just show a pliers, to push the piston in (figure 5B7-8). My Parking Brake seems to work, too. Sets in under 3 1/2 pumps. Maybe I just got lucky this time.

I really hope I'm not jinx-ing myself, but my high idle issue hasn't happened since I fixed the low coolant temp. How long do you wait before you spread the news? Long story short: My high idle issue was definitely related to the ECM "commanding" the IAC to be a little more open (50 counts), than a standard idle position of 650-ish rpm (30 counts). This produced Park & Neutral idle speeds in the 900-1100 rpm range, and in-gear speeds of 850-1000 rpm. The gear shift switch, as well as the Power Steering pressure switch functioned fine. All other ECM data seemed fine. Coolant Temperature is what I believe is the culprit. I know some valuable members in this forum have mentioned that temps above 150F should not affect ECM functions, but my case seems to contradict that. A while back, I noticed that my operating temps were only getting into the low to mid 180's. So, I thought the T-stat is old and probably on its way out. So, I decided to change it, and took the advice of members to use the 180F T-stat, and also tossed the "service bulletin" T-stat gasket that fits onto the neck/elbow (stupid move, I guess) because it was kinda chewed up, didn't stay put, and I didn't think it was needed. Then, temps were only getting into the upper 160's to low 170's with 180 T-stat, and I started noticing high idle. So, I decided to once again, change the T-stat and go back to stock 195F, and temps were still low. So, I replaced the temp sensor, uninstalled and reinstalled the 195 T-stat again, fussed with the T-stat neck/elbow a bit, and made my own replacement neck/elbow gasket (discussed in other post), and now temps are in low 190's. High idle has not happened since... The only thing is, since I replaced both the T-stat gasket AND the temp sensor, I can't be entirely sure the temps were fixed by the gasket (and not the sensor). But, the temp sensor was only a few years old, and the temp would rise into the 190's if the car idled for long periods (no air over radiator), so the sensor seemed to be working. And, the T-stat neck/elbow is a really bad design, with only one bolt. On mine, the opposite side of the neck would alway creep-up when tightening the bolt, even if I tried holding it down by wedging a pry-bar on it; unless I left the bolt so loose that the neck was able to be easily moved around (obviously didn't want that condition). I can see why they needed the "service bulletin" gasket; you need a gasket that's allows for a lot of compression/expansion (i.e. thick elastomer). When the idle is normal, the car is soooooo fun to drive.

For a New Yorker, I'm hoping the windshield "crisis" is somehow mitigated. That seems like the most probable way to be forced to junk a car in this state. Excellent info all over this forum! Continued thanks to everyone!

Here's a nice long link with lots of info in it: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/thermostat-1989-a-256820.html It looks like the 12337901 gasket is what I would have liked, last week; I invented my own, to prevent coolant from leaking around the T-stat. Agree with Padgett, the O-ring on the outside diameter of the neck does the sealing, but I could not prevent the opposite side of the neck from "creeping up" when I tightened the one bolt. Unless I left it fairly loose, it shifted up, and seemed to allow bypass, cause operating temps around 160F. Which in turn, seemed to be the cause of my high idle condition................so far. I'm waiting to post an update on that, but that's another subject.

I got an O-ring at PepBoys. They have it in their system. Seems to fit perfectly. I just can't find the part number (don't think I copied it down). Damn. Be careful with your T-stat and housing/neck; the design is BAD. One bolt to hold down the neck allows the opposite side to creep up, upon tightening. My service bulletin gasket (one the fits into neck) was all beat-up, and I did the stupid thing of throwing it out. Now, I see why they invented that special gasket. Without it, a significant leakage by the T-stat can occur, and car can run cool. Mine was running at 158 - 162, with a 195F T-stat in there.

I had the left, lower portion of the tail light fill-up half way with water; it was ONLY the red reflector portion, not where the bulbs are. I drilled two tiny holes; one toward the top, and one near the bottom, and the water immediately started draining, and it never had water in it again.

That too, was recently replaced. And the air flow readings in the ECM data page seem to be fine. I should do another recording of all the ECM data points, again.....while the high idle is happening, and when it's not happening. It's usually easy, as all I have to do to correct the high idle, is shut and re-start the engine. Then the IAC counts are lower.