BrentS

On my '89: E041 Code has come on twice now, intermittently. Yesterday after driving 20 min., the E041 Code started coming on (every 20 seconds or so), on-and-off; quite annoying. Parked the car for an hour, and hasn't come on since. I bought a new Cam sensor, and planned to start there. Since it's intermittent, can I be optimistic to think it's not the magnet? From reading other posts; it looks like I need to take the belt off, and the water pump pulley, is that it? Should I inspect the magnet? If so, how do you alingn it w/ the hole? Thanks!

Well, it's still 85 degrees out here on Long Island, so we'll see if it happens on the way home today. I kinda wish it does, just so I can troubleshoot it more. If it doesn't, I'll take Ronnie's advice and keep a troubleshoot kit (w/ the pages from the manual) in the car; all ready-to-go. The insulation/tubing idea is sort of interesting. As far as the E041 code: the mass airflow sensor was replaced last year, and the service manual only speaks about the Cam Sensor circuit for that code, so Drake your MAF sensor experience is a little puzzling.

Ok EDBSO, that would make more sense. My problem is that the pump stops running, and won't run until car is off for many hours. Ok, did more reading on 5E1, and found a really helpful troubleshooting section for "Pump does not Run". Unfortunately, it looks like I need to have the problem happen again, in order to start the troubleshoot process. And, my luck, it will happen when or where I can't troubleshoot. Oh well. I'll keep at it. Now, I'll move over to troubleshooting the E041 Engine Controls error that's been recently coming up, too. Ughh.

Thanks for the response EDBSO, but I just don't think that's it. Mainly, because it seems pretty clear that the pump/motor assembly simply just stops pumping. Plus; I thought brake fluid only boils at temps well above 200F, no? Like when a mechanic forgot to re-install some return springs on another of my car's calipers, and the pads stayed on the rotors continuously. That was also not fun. I can imaging the fluid boiling at lower temps on the intake (low pressure) side of the pump circuit, but imagine you would still hear the pump running and trying to pump, no? This doesn't seem to do that. Does anyone know what the main brake relay do? It's the one on the right, and seems to be the same part number. I could change that for only a few dollars. Thanks.

Ok, thanks. Yep, I've used Jim's parts before. I check w/ him.

Ok, I just checked; I replaced the relay mounted in the middle (between 2 others) on the firewall.

I'm fairly sure I replace the right relay; I replaced part no. 25553347. I'll double check which one I replaced on the firewall (i.e. middle, left, etc.). I am currently reading sect. 5E1 in the service manual and fortunately it appears relatively simple, in that if the pump stops coming on to pressurize the accumulator, it seems to only be: relay, pressure switch, pump/motor assy. Does that seem right? Unfortunately, I bet the pump/motor assy is expensive, right? Anyone have a part number for it, so I can brace myself?

My '89 Reatta w/ 120K mi has lost the power brakes on very hot days (90+ degrees) 4 times now; and the red brake light comes on and the CRT shows "Low Brake Pressure...". The brakes don't work until you shut the car off for a few hours (maybe to cool?). I've tried to have dealer fix it, but the problem didn't happen for them. They replaced the pressure switch anyway, which seemed to have been a waste of money. I replaced the relay on the fire wall because it was cheap & easy, and the accumulator was replaced last year (it failed). All 4 brake pads are good, and the dealer flushed & bled brakes system 6 months ago. Any ideas? Anyone experience losing the brakes when it's hot (it's not fun).

Thanks Howard! Yes, the power window & mirror lights still light up. Lately, the shifter strip has not gone out again, so I will hold-off in messing w/ it and continue to monitor it.

Thanks! The vast majority of info in this forum is helpful; even when people estimate the time and level of difficulty of a job, etc. It's all good!

Although I will likely be interested in a CD/MP3 player hook-up (if/when my cassette repair attempt fails); how did we get onto this topic? I'm sure people would like to see a new post on this topic (especially for '88-'89's) with clear instructions/suggestions on replacing their cassette decks, pics, etc.

Oh, Ok. Thanks. You have any suggestions on gaining access? Sometimes these things are not obvious, and it's easy to break stuff.

If anyone else found that their black plastic retainers (that are glued to the door panel) were broken, here's one way of fixing them that worked well for me. Instead of trying to use glue (which doesn't always work well with plastics) I drilled 4 small holes in each corner of what was left of the retainers, and wound some small wire back and forth and around the base of the push fastener (Pin). It held the fastener surprisingly tight. I attached a photo. The yellow part is the fastener, the gray is what's left of the black plastic retainer, and the wire is black.

The light for the P,R,N,D, etc. shifter plate is intermittent, and tends to go on and off during shifting or with a bump to the console. How do you get to that bulb? Does anyone know the replacement part number? Thanks!

Funny this thread popped up, as I was just thinking that I still have a whole bunch of these door push fasteners and the receptacles they go into. I bought a box each when I replaced my front speakers. I paid $20 for 50 of the Car-Pak Pins (85-5990), and $15.00 for 50 of Car-Pak receptacles (88-6436). I used a hand full of the pins, and none of the receptacles. Anyone maybe want to trade for some cassette decks or parts?

I think there's some helpful info here: http://www.reatta.net/index.html

It should be at this link still: http://www.geocities.com/reatta_lover/ Does anyone have a tape deck for sale that still works or does NOT have these white plastic pieces broken?

OK, I tried to add 4 files which are jpegs created from PowerPoint w/ some captions I added. They are pics stolen from the famous "repair manual". I guess if other people have these white plastic pieces (shown on pic 1) that aren't broken(?), then it was just a coincidence that my deck was broken exactly as the deck in the manual was. Too bad he didn't mention this in the manual. You'll also see some other info which may help. Thanks everyone!

Ok, this is getting interesting. I noticed that this white plastic piece looked broken on my deck, however the picture from the repair manual looked exactly like how mine was (the left cracked and the right completely off pin). And he didn't mention anything about it being broken, so I thought that maybe it was supposed to be like that. I would be able to supply marked-up pics, but I don't see if/how we can attach files in this forum. Also, I didn't find the right pin. Vincent, you have both left and right pins, and both left and right plastic pieces are secured? How would you replace the ear, as in the right side? (Your "photo editing" didn't seem to come out.) **Additionally, I feel the repair manual left out a procedure on ensuring two other white plastic pieced re-engage upon re-assembly. I almost missed it, and he didn't mention this. I tried to email the author, but it got bounced back. Maybe you guys can just email me. It would be easier for attachments. brentsalamone13@gmail.com The little belt for the door was tricky. I couldn't find a good replacement, so I used an O-ring of same diameter and took a nail clipper and snipped off material so that it was thin-enough to resemble the original. It works well, and should last longer than the car, as O-rings are often made from long-lasting elastomers (i.e. Viton, EPDM, Nitrile, etc.).

Thanks. Going from memory; I seem to recall thinking that a white plastic piece did look broken. However, I thought the pictures in those famous repair instructions showed the same "configuration", so I assumed it was supposed to be like that. Would you be able to show which piece you're talking about? Maybe if I email a picture to you, or something?

After replacing the stretched belt with a new one on my '89, the cassette deck still doesn't work. When I push PLAY, it seems to just fast forward. Any ideas on this?

Does anyone know the part number for these two switches for a 1989 Reatta? Any info on replacing them? My mother spilled Coke (not diet) on them years ago, and the Lamp Retract button doesn't work anymore.

Any good instructions or suggestions on how to remove a cassette deck in an 89 Reatta? I want to try to repair it, but don't want to ruin any trim, molding, etc.