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61polara

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Posts posted by 61polara

  1. At the Charlotte Meet, the show format was different from most National Meets. The show cars were released at 3:00pm and the awards were given at 4:00 in a large tent adjacent to the show field, followed by a dinner for those who registed in the same tent at 5:00 pm. Our AACA President, Herb Oakes, asked for feed back on this format. Let us know what you thought. Should this be the case for other National Meets?

  2. Welcome to the forum. Title laws very from state to state and are getting more difficult every day. Check out the SEMA information at the top of this forum page. If you have all the paper work from the dealer in 1987, it may be possible but not easy if you did not transfer the title at that time. What state are you in?

  3. Wes,

    I would start with the basics. Spark plugs and wires and clean the injectors. Check the air filter. I'm assuming the check engine light is not on, since you didn't mention it. If no improvement from these, then move on to the more advanced areas.

  4. Looking back at the parts book, the antennas were all called "skyway" antenna. I blieve this hole in the dash was used with a windshield header antenna. Also available was the cowl mounted antenna in 100" and 66" lengths. There was also a cowl mounted reel type antenna that could be cranked up and down from inside the car. This antenna was also available with an electric motor. I haven't been able to find a picture of the header antenna installation yet, but still looking.

  5. This hole is for a radio antenna option, which mounted on the inside of the windshield. I don't think I've ever seen one as the external antenna was the other radio option. My '42 part book indicates this was part of the skyway radio option. It also list a "Instrument Panel Antenna Hole Plug", available in woodgrain or painted.

  6. I agree with Matt and Susan above. Although the Judges Manual does not directly address an aftermarket vaccum pump, an electric fuel pump on your car would be a mandatory 10 point deduction. So I agree with Susan that the deduction could be at least 5 points. This is too many points to risk when going for your Senior award.

    I consulted my Holander's Interchange Manual and it appears that both vaccum and electric wipers were available in 1958. There are four different fuel pumps listed for the V8 cars as well, some dependent on if the car had vaccum or electric wipers. You could have the wrong pump on your car. With vaccum wipers, I suspect you should have a combination fuel / vaccum pump. From the interchange manual, the HP engines use a pump that was used into the mid 60's which is not a duel pump. This leads me to wonder if the HP and fuel injected engines required the electric wiper option.

    I'm not a Chevy expert, just raising some questions on why your wipers may need an electric pump. Matt is correct, you should try to find the cause of the problem and correct it. Good luck on your Senior!

  7. If you have only driven it twice around the block and are half gallon low on coolant and the temp light flickers, you have a major leak if it was full when you started. The overheating could be causing all your problems. Find where the coolant is going! On these short drives, I don't think its the radiator cap. If it is the radiator cap, you will see coolant spitting from the overflow tube on the radiator when you stop unless the coolent level is to low. '

    Fill the radiator to the correct level and start the engine with the cap off. Let it come up to temp. When the engine comes up to the thermostat temp, you should start to see the coolant flowing through the radiator. The engine should not overheat with the cap off at idle. I coolant starts flowing out of the opening, you have a blocked radiator or a lower hose that has collapsed. If you see major air bubles in the coolant after the thermostat has opened, you have a blown head gasket allowing compression gas to enter the cooling system.

    By the way, my '60 Invicta was the first '60 Buick to receive the AACA Original award! They're geat cars. Never had an overheating problem with it. With the 401 they don't even know they have a Dynaflow behind them.

    Trust me from experience, find the cause of the overheating first! Let us know what you find.

  8. Search this site for 12 volt conversions and you will find plenty of discussions. Most agree that you are better off staying with 6 volts. You can do a radio work around, your lights will not be brighter with 12 volts on a properly operating 6 volt system and you can walk into most auto parts stores and buy a 6 volt battery off the shelf. Save yourself a lot of problems and stay with the 6 volts. The car will be dependible to take your kids to school in and a lot less trouble to convert your camper to 6 volts than your car.

  9. There may be a strainer/filter on the pick-up tube in the tank. Drop the tank, clean it out and put in a new sending unit which includes the fuel pick up. I had this problem on a '57 Buick and it drove me nuts until I figured out the problem. It would run great for 15 minutes and then shut down. Wait 30 minutes and it would start and run great for another 15 minutes. The rust in the tank would take 15 minutes to clog the tank trainer and after 30 minutes enough would fall off to let the car run for another 15 minutes.

  10. Thomas, I would research this further before you spend big bucks for something wrong. In AACA it won't matter as long as they match and are not haligens. Other clubs are much more specific in their requirements. Westinghouse was generally a replacement brand. I know in the '60's Ford products all used a Ford script headlight bulb. I don't know about '57, but there should be some Ford specialty sites that can provide you the answer.

  11. I've checked a '41-'48 Chrysler shop manual and there is no mention of routine lubrication of the top screws. The main difference in this system (Town & Country) any your system seems to be the earlier cars used two electric motors, one on each screw. Yours appears to have one motor driving both screws through cables. The old grease in the drive and gear sets is most likely hard and should be cleaned out and replaced. The screws are covered in a canvas boot to keep the grease in and water out. I took them out of my '42 DeSoto several years ago because one side was not working. I found that water had gotten in the gear unit from the motor and screw and rusted. Cleaned it out, put in new grease and it works great. The units are not difficult to remove but you have to remove the rear seat and side panels. I don't remember exactly what lub I used, but I think it was a wheel bearing grease in the drive unit and a white lub on the screws.

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