61polara
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Posts posted by 61polara
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One benefit that most members of a local club don't think of is that is many cases, the national organization carries liability insurance to cover the events of the local region. Most independent local car clubs don't think of the need for insurance. If an accident happens at an organized club event the individual, club and officers of the club may be sued.
A national organization provides a structure for the local club to operate within and assistance in keeping the club going in the rough times that most local clubs go through at one time or the other. The national organization provides a way for your local members to reach out to other national members for help or research on their projects, plus the benefit of getting to know people across the country or world with the same interests. National Meets and Tours give you access to people and cars you would never see otherwise.
If an existing local club is looking to become part of a national organization. They should look for the one that best reflects the vehicle interest area of the local club and fits within the objectives of the national organization.
You bring up a very good question, that I will turn back to you. What do you believe a national organization should be doing better to support local regions?
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In these years Plymouth used a narrower 15" wheel. I would measure yours first to see what you actually have. The 8's used an 8.20 x 15 tire and the 6's the 7.60 x 15.
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I just looked at your prior posts......beautiful car...........keep it original. Correct tires would look outstanding on the car.
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Mark,
You don't say if you have a 6 or 8 cylinder engine. My referece material shows the 15 x 5.5 rim was used on the 6's and 15 x 6 rim on the 8's. My guess is
that you have a 6 and the prior owner changed to the larger wheels, but they would not fit in the spare well in the trunk so they kept the original rim for the spare.
Attached is a good tire size conversion chart if you wish to stay with radials. The 75 series tires are the closest to the original size, but still not as tall. Your orginal tire would be about an 85 series in today's tire numbering system. Consider a set of original bias-ply tires. They will look better an give you true to period road feel. You car doesn't have power steering, the steering will be much lighter and be a much easier to drive car with bias-ply 7.60 x 15 tires.
I think your wheels should be body color. Can your tire shop match your paint?
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Wes,
It sounds like the AC belt is slipping, but that will cause a squeel not a squeak. Try to tighten the belt. If it is a squeek, it is most likely a berring starting to go bad in an idler pully, the water pump, alternater or the compressor.
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You're looking for a Model 602 (6 tube) or 802 (8 tube). The same radios were used in '42-'48 Chrysler, DeSoto, Dodge and Plymouth as well as '48-'50 Dodge trucks.
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Based on your prior post, I think it is a big mistake at this point to try to go back to R12. It's not just recovering the 134a and replacing with R12. I imagine when the POA valve was "updated" they used an 134a expansion valve or oriface tube. This must be changed to one that will work with R12, possibly going back to the original POA valve. R12 system requires Mineral Oil and the oil in your 134a system is not compable with mineral oil. The complete system will have to be flushed of the 134a type oil, compressor pulled and drained and the drier replaced. You need to determine what else was changed in the conversion. This will be a costly process to go back.
Your system has been converted and should cool well. I would find the problem with it before proceeding to convert back to R12. Running the engine at 1200 - 1500 RPM the low side should be 28-32 and the high side between 300 and 350. The low side is the critical one for cooling. The high side will vary based on air temp. These pressure ranges can vary based on what type of expansion system was used. Take it to a good experienced AC guy.
I've debated doing the reverse conversion on a '65 Ford that the PO converted to a new system, with new compressor and all. Cools great, but it nocks me out of ever showing the car for AACA judging as long as its in there. I would probably sell the car for another one before going to the cost of converting it back to a correct system and be resolved never to show the car in AACA.
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It sounds like your system is either undercharged or overcharged. It would really help to know what the high and low pressure readings are at about 1500 RPM and the ambient air temp at the time. In the conversions I've done the air is just as cold with 134A as r12. One thing I've found is that there is no "exact" ratio of the amount of 134a needed based on the R12 capacity. I begin with a 50% ratio and bring it up to the correct pressures and then record the quanity of 134A for future work.
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The operation of your transmisson is correct. Just a few tips........the proper way to put it into reverse is to let it shift into Drive for just a moment and then it will slide right into reverse. To use the Park feature, turn the engine off in Drive, then shift into Reverse without the engine running. This locks the transmission for Park.
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Hear are pictures of the coil on my '47 Roadmaster. The shielded cable goes through the rubber gromet in the firewall. Hope this helps.
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Bump the starter over. You may be on the high spot of the cam.
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What year?
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Mark,
DOT3 and DOT4 are compatable. DOT4 is designed for high performance, high temp braking. Most likely your system was overhauled using DOT3. Since it's been about 5 years since the brake overhaul, it wouldn't be a bad idea to flush and replace with new DOT3. To flush, suck the fluid out of the master cylinder and fill with fresh DOT 3. Bleed the brakes as you normally would until the fluid runs clear out of all bleeder screws.
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Mark,
Reread your shop manual or owner's manual. It calls for MoPar Super Brake Fluid, not silicone fluid. This is Chrysler's brand name for what we now call DOT 3. Your car originally came with DOT 3. You do need to determine what was used when it was rebuilt to add the correct fluid.
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My personal experience is driving under 45 mph or short trips is ok, but several hours at 60-70 mph will sling them off the rim. Looked nice on the car until I arrived at a local show with one or two missing!
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Non AACA members confused about what HPOF is? Historical Preservation of Original Features. Tranlation, an unrestored car to be preserved as what the factory actually built for restorers to use to document their restorations. It is a great class that I enjoy showing in as there is no point judging, only the owner disclosing what has been restored evaluation by the judges that it is factory original, unrestored.
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My 1947 Buick Roadmaster received it's HPOF certification in 2004 and will be seeking the Original award in the future. It received a Third Junior prior to the HPOF classification being created. It was purchased from the same dealer as my '60 Invicta in 1990 with 62,000 miles. The car was traded in to the dealer from the original owner in 1956 and stored in the back building. It still had the 1956 license plate on it, with a 1961 dealer tag over it. Seat cover were installed when new and are still on it. The car has the Roadmaster 320 cid engine with three speed manual transmission and is a delight drive on the highway or interstate.
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My '60 Buick Invicta received it's HPOF in 2005 and was in the first group to receive the HPOF Original award at the Melborne, Fl show this year. I purchased the car from a small town used car dealer who first bought the car in 1964. A lady in her 60's who lived across the street from the lot came over and said "That's the prettiest car I've ever seen. I'll buy it if you will teach me to drive". After a few years, she decided to give up driving. The dealer bought the car back and stored it in the back building. I found the dealership in 1989 and bought it and four other Buicks in the back building from the dealer's son who was 80 years old and the shop mechanic since the mid 1930's and a lover of old cars.
The Invicta (Miss Louise, the name of the little old lady) was Buick's replacement for the Century. The small LeSabre body with the Electra 401 4 barrel carb, single exhaust. You don't even know you have Dynaflow behind it. The car has 64,000 miles on it.
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Try a few more drops of ATF and pump some more. Your booster should be fine once you work it out. Overhaul the rest of the system.
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My Dad had a '56 Special 2 door sedan with small hubcaps. He brought it home from the dealer (new) and Mom said "That's the ugest car I've ever seen!, paint the top white!" It was solid light blue and the next day it had a white top. It's the only car Mom's brother talked him into buying because the dealer was a good friend, the only car Dad bought without Mom present and the only Buick he ever owned. It stayed around for five years and was traded on my current '61 Dodge Polara 2HT. Seriously, I have four Buicks which I love, drive and show often. '47 Roadmaster, '49 Roadmaster, '60 Invicta and '64 Electra and often work on a '57 Roadmaster.
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A few years ago a friend and I decided to think out of the box about a car show/display. Your car is your trophy, so bringing it out is your award. We sought funding from the local tourism board and they liked the concept. The show was held on Main Street whcih is lined with resturants and antique stores. Preregisteration was required, but there was no registration fee. Our intent was for all owner to be rewarded for bringing out their car. All entrants received "Ten Down Town Dollars" to spend at any store in the downtown area. Merchants were notified where to redeam the "Dollars". There was no judging. Your car is your throphy! The first show brought in 150 cars. They were placed by club, if the club desired and if not by year. Primier display cars were brought in and displayed in front of the Courthouse and included over the years a '35 Duesenburg, '48 Tucker, '12 Cadillac and others. This worked well for five years until the Downtown Merchants Association decided they could make money on this because "all old car owners would pay to show their car". They took control of the show, started charging to display cars and I have not been back since.
Look at this original concept for small town, downtown events. It will bring out possible new members to make your region stronger.
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I've had this problem on a '57 Buick, which I think has the same type boster. There is a small cover on the top of the boster. Remove it and put a few drops of transmission fluid in there. Start working the pedal. I think it will free up for you. This is covered in the shop manual. From the break pull, it sounds like its time for a complete overhaul.
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I have one just like it with all the cords and timing light but no instructions on hook up for all the tests. I can't get to it for a few days and will post pictures of cords and attachents. If anyone has the instructions, I'd like to have a copy as well.
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Check the float as others have mentioned. A friend had the same problem on a car and I kept on telling him the float level was too high. He finally agreed to pull the carb on the morning we were leaving for a 4 hour drive to an AACA National Meet. I opened up the carb and found the pivot pin for the float in the bottom of the bowl and the float just floating..............Put the pin back in from the correct side for this car, checked the float level and remounted the carb. It hasn't stalled in four years.
Looking for advice
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Rusty,
Do you have documentation on when Chrysler first went to tubeless tires? I thought there was an industry wide switch for the 1955 model year.