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61polara

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Posts posted by 61polara

  1. I feel your pain.  I have a "48 60 Special and a "53 Series 75.  Remember there are 5 cylinders including the power seat. Do it right and change to ATF.  You might try changing the rubber lines and flush and keep your original cylinders and run them until they leak.  It won't damage the paint only cause a mess.  Want to buy a "53 Series 75?  Make me an offer...….  Be serious, I may take it.

  2. DOT 5 doesn't have the lubricating properties needed in the system and should not be used.  ATF is the best choice.  Remember DOT 3 is a great paint remover.  I had a 1948 Cadillac that developed a leak in a door cylinder and stripped the exterior paint off the bottom half of the outside of the door.  In changing to ATF, you will need to replace the rubber lines as well with new rubber.

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  3. Sandblasting is the quickest, but you could sand it as well.  Start with 80 grit or possibly 60 grit and finish with 180 grit. Primer adheres best to a 180 grit finished metal.   Then start your finishing for paint in primer.  Sandblasting leaves about the same finish as 180 sandpaper.

  4. On 5/5/2013 at 10:02 PM, btate said:

    Thanks Mike, I did check the vacuum and it is only 13 psi. Seems it is beginning to work some. Seems no leaks around manifold or carb.

    Look at tuning your engine.  You should be pulling 19-20 inches of vacuum at idle.  Connect a vacuum gage to an intake port and adjust the carb for the highest vacuum.  Then try your wipers again.  Low vacuum is also a sign of late ignition timing.

  5. Actually not much safer.  I've found that a dual master cylinder goes into complete failure as quick as a single master cylinder..  I agree, if you break a line then there is an advantage to a dual cylinder, but in 50 years of driving many old and new cars, I've never had a line failure (southern cars).  Wheel cylinder will go bad and leak but you have plenty of indication of that problem with brakes pulling and grabbing.  If it makes you feel better with a dual master cylinder, go for it.

  6.  

    It's hard to make a recommendation based on the limited information you have given us.  As others have said, brokers generally will sell only cars, not tools, equipment and parts.  if you do not want to sell it yourself, then an estate auction may be best, but expect pennies on a dollar.  Brokers would be interested in the restored cars and possibly the unrestored cars and you could ebay, craigslist the parts and tools or go with an estate auction.  In picking a broker, find someone who deals in the type or years of the cars you are selling.  A brokers site that shows mostly muscle cars won't draw the attention to the Model A you are trying to sell.  Also, look for a broker who will seek out potential buyers for your cars, not a consignment dealer who only lists your car on their web site if you want a fast sell.  

     

    Give us more information and we can give you more specific answers.  Sorry for your loss and good luck on sales.

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