Rusty_OToole

Reproductions are never as valuable as the original.

Old Cars Price Guide gives dozens of values from $960 to $43000 depending on model, body style and condition. If you tell us the MODEL, BODY STYLE and CONDITION and post a few pictures it will help narrow it down. Or spend $4.98 at the magazine store and get your own Price Guide.

I have seen the same problem on a Model A Ford that had recently been rebuilt. The problem was that the new pistons were much heavier than the originals and threw the engine out of balance. There should be no such vibration. When they were new they did not vibrate like that or no one would have bought them. You say you replaced the pistons but did not balance the engine. That is bad. 4 cylinder engines of that period were balanced to quite fine tolerances. They had to be, there were no rubber engine mounts and road speeds were climbing. It is very common for modern pistons to be much heavier than the originals. If you check the weight of the original pistons and rods you may be surprised to find they are significantly lighter than the replacements and practically identical to each other. You may have to take the engine apart and have it balanced, or at least make sure the pistons are the same weight as the originals. To drive it the way it is, is to risk rapid engine wear and possibly a catastrophic failure or in other words the rod through the block.

I don't think they published specs for those bolts. There are tables of torque settings as Martylum pointed out, they are generic but should be accurate for your use. They did not specify torque settings where they are not critical. Mechanics used to tighten them by feel and they were close enough.

In 1927 Henry Ford changed his mind, repudiated his former views, shut down the Dearborn Independent, issued a public apology and burned a large collection of valuable, but anti Semitic books. Too bad the Ford bashers can't learn by his example.

There should be a metal plate on the distributor telling the make, model, etc.

Auto stores sell O rings and so do hardware stores. They are used in plumbing and many other things and they come in many sizes.

I have 2 original owner's manuals for early 50s Chrysler products. Both recommend Chryco Fluid Drive oil only for the fluid drive. For the transmission they recommend 10W motor oil or when temps are below 10 degrees F, 5W.

Bolt pattern is standard 5 bolt on 4 1/2 centers used by Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler (but not Imperial) same as older rear drive Ford, Studebaker, Toyota, Hudson and many other cars. The only problem is that you have bolts instead of studs and nuts. This means you can't use aluminum wheels because they require special nuts. Another issue is that your car has a locating pin on the hub to help install the wheel. If you substitute other wheels you will have to drill a 5/16 hole in each one for the pin.

Every good auto parts store sells cork gasket material if you want to cut fresh gaskets. But I would substitute neoprene O rings if possible. They are a much better grease seal, and cheaper.

You could try jacking up the back wheels and see if they turn. This will tell you if something is dragging in the transmission. It used to be common in cold weather to do this.

TDH tractor fluid, ISO 32 grade from Walmart or farm stores, or auto parts stores. TDH stands for transmission, differential and hydraulic fluid. It's good for your transmission too. The whole subject of operating and caring for the fluid drive transmission was covered in depth a year or 2 ago on this board. Search for Fluid Drive in the Chrysler and Dodge sections and you will find plenty to interest you.

Someone might be able to help if you told us the model and year of engine.

You don't have to take out the old stuff. Just tighten the nut every once in a while, like once a year. When it bottoms out and won't tighten any more put in more packing. The same stuff plumbers use on pumps and hot water valves. After that you may have to retighten a few times until it packs down. Don't jam it down too tight just snug.

The same model number seems to appear in the list as beginning production in September 1940, 1941, April 1944 and October 1945. In other words was produced for at least 5 years. It could be military or civilian but if it were military it would have ID plates and instruction plates on the instrument panel and other mil spec features. So it is probably a civilian model. The serial number places it after April 1944 and probably after October 1945 in other words, most likely a 1946 model. This model continued practically unchanged until they brought out an all new model for 1949. Many parts such as brakes, fan belts, spark plugs, gaskets etc can be bought from your local NAPA store or any old line parts store. You need to find a dusty old parts store with an old gray haired or bald headed parts man. The place where all the farmers shop. Not a bright new shiny place with a kid behind the counter with purple hair and a snot ring. The parts are available thru normal channels if you know how to order them. Another good source of info and parts is Vintage Power Wagons-- Your Source for Dodge Power Wagon Parts and Trucks! -- civilian military m 37, m-37 wc Dodge Power Wagon. They specialize in parts for the 3/4 ton Dodge Power Wagons that were widely used in WW2 and later. The motors, bodies etc are very much like your truck and a lot of the parts interchange. They are also very knowledgeable about old Dodge trucks and their quirks.

There is supposed to be a 1 way valve on the vacuum system, either on the engine or on the booster or even in the hose. Check if it is holding pressure. Could also be a leak in the hose or booster.

Good grief, he is talking about STORING a car not WORKING on it. I don't use cement blocks or cinder blocks for this. I have accumulated a pile of wooden blocks, off cuts from beams 6" to 10" in diameter. But would use cement blocks, for storage. You could make up stands from wood or plywood.

I have in front of me a Chryco (Canadian Chrysler parts) catalog. It shows the same filter for flathead 6 Plymouth Dodge and DeSoto cars and Dodge trucks, from 1937 to 1956. It is described as a sealed type filter, part number 861 028. It cross references like this. Chryco 861 028 Purolator PR- 1/2 AC paper F-1000 Fram Filtronic PB-1/2 Kralinator K-1/2 Wix can type WF-1/2 Walker Deluxe SU-3 That is a throw away type filter meant to be replaced every 5000 miles or so. I don't think they have been made in years. You might find an NOS or NORS one at a swap meet or from a parts dealer. These part numbers were current in the mid sixties The replaceable cartridge filter was a slightly more expensive option. If you could find one of those off another flathead six Chrysler product the cartridges are still available from your local parts store, they are used by various tractors and stationary engines. I can't find an engine model T109 but T108 and T110 are Canadian made Dodge truck engines, 1940 and 1941-45 respectively. So possibly the T109 model was a Dodge truck engine used for a stationary power plant.A lot of so called American equipment from WW2 is actually Canadian made, Canada's industries were on a war footing from September 1939, the US did not follow suit until early 1942. My 1951-52 Chryco parts list also shows an Oil Filter - sealed type part number 861028 as well as an Oil Filter - replaceable type, assembly-1324428 and cartridge 1121694 and Oil Filter - full flow type. The full flow one won't work on your engine but both the sealed type and cartridge type were available for it.

You should be able to find a color coded wiring diagram. In a factory repair manual or elsewhere. That, plus your old harness, plus some wire and connectors should put you in business. I wonder if any of the antique wiring companies sells rolls of woven covered wire for this purpose?

Should be OK if you use your common sense. The blocks must have a level spot to stand on if they are to be stable. A board or plywood underneath won't hurt. The blocks must be right way up not laid flat. And a piece of wood on top to spread the load, like a 2X8. The danger is that the block might tip over, or crumble under the weight. But if used properly this will not happen.

If you get the car don't be too hasty about changing the engine. Any V8 will have plenty of power, that car was built before the smog laws ruined performance. Even the slant 6 will be halfway decent, and very economical. Keep in mind, cars of that age required regular tuneups to perform their best. Just part of the regular maintenance of an old car.

Compression fittings are not good enough for brake lines. This is one of those hillbilly fixes you can get away with, sometimes, as long as you don't use the brakes hard or ever need to make an emergency stop. Not something to bet your life on or the lives of your loved ones. Cut the brake line off flush with the nut, use a socket wrench to take off the fitting, and fit a new brake line. They are not at all expensive especially if you value your life and the lives of other road users. You can replace all the hard lines on your truck for under $50 bucks. Universal or straight lines from the parts store are fine. Take the line you cut off, measure it for length, and use it as a pattern to bend the new line.

Depends where you live. Canadian made Plymouth and DeSoto used the same basic engine, US cars didn't. You can measure the difference with a tape measure. The smaller engine measures 23" at the cylinder head, the big engine 25".

To help fat men get behind the wheel?

Fuel pump? You can buy an automotive stethoscope to help find funny noises. A wooden rod will do. Be careful to keep away from the fan or you might get a clip on the ear you won't forget!